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HELP with Espar heaters

Brian silk

Regular Contributor
I just wanted to put it out here that I can give service advise on ESPAR brand heaters. I have been an Espar Marine tech for 16 years and know them inside out. You can message me privately if you wish. I will check the General forum regularily.
 
I have a Espar D12L (25-1470) installed on my boat. I was able to repair by swapping in parts from another D12L unit. I am having difficulty finding replacement parts:


Espar p/n 25.1480.40.00.00 - P/N 2455RC75 / Elmwood / Thermal cutoff (fig # 6)
Espar p/n 201-00-144 - P/N 2-5700-IG9-P10 /E.T.A/ 28A circuit breaker (Fig #49)


Do you know a good source for these parts? I would also like to make up a "cruising kit" of parts that are likely to need replacing.



Thanks
Jason
 
Good day . Brian here from Roton Industries in Vancouer Canada. The breaker can be replaced with a 30 amp Blue Sea push button resettable breaker. The thermal cutoff switch is still available from your local Espar dealer. However in my 16 years of servicing Espars, I have only ever replaced the overheat swithch once, in hundreds of D7l/D12l repairs. It never goes, but the .4 amp overheat breaker does get weak and go for no reason. They are also still available. I don't have the part # as I am at home now, but it will be in the part manual. It is the breaker next to the glow plug, usually under a rubber accordian boot. If it is popping, experiment first by removing all ducting from the heater and run it long enough for it to get to full operating temp. If the breaker still pops, it 99% the breaker. It can be very intermittent. If it does not pop, then it could be the ducting, crushed or dented, or dust in the air intake grill. Sometimes a round wire mesh where the intake draws from the cabin, it does not take too much dust to bring the temp up. If you have a dog or cat on board, it does not take too long to build up.

One of the most common things to go after many years is the temp./flame sensor p# 25 1480 35 00 00. Unfortunately, they are not available from Espar any more. This controls the glow plug cutout and the cooldown cycle. The cooldown should be a minimum of 90 seconds after shutoff. The glowplug should cutoff at about 1min 15 sec after start up(fan speeds up) if the heater is igniting properly. If the atomizer is dirty then it will take longer to cut out and the exhaust will be smoky, more than usual. The cooldown is more critical as too short a cooldown can result in premature cracking of the heat exchanger, putting exhaust gases in the ducting air.

As for spares: #1- glow plug, #2- fuel metering pump integrated filter, especislly if it is the only filter between the furnace and the fuel tank. It is in the suction side of the pump behind the spigot, shaped like a mini thimble inside the end of the pump.. Be careful to never touch the delivery end of the pump as the nuts on the spigot control the calibration. Change that and you must buy a new pump($275.00) Ther is not that much else you can do unless you get into the rebuild parts. You could take the motor off and have it rebrushed just to be sure it has lots of life in it. Usually costs me about $125.00-150 to get a motor rebrushed and rebearinged at a motor rebuild shop.

I hope this helps. I will check back and see if you need any more info.

For a dealer near you you can contact Espar Canada at 1-800-387-4800
 
Hello

My name is Steve I have A ESPAR 25 1490 00 00 00 12v the fan turns on and it clicks but does not light.I have turned it off and on still nothing I have pressed both reset buttons anything that you can suggest
 
Hello Steve.

If you have tried to start the heater more than 4 or five times, I would recommend that you get an Espar tech to look at it, as too much fuel in the heater and exhaust can make starting it a hazardous exercise( exhaust fire) If you don't know where one is then contact Espar Canada at 1-800-387-4800 and they can give you a dealer list.

How many times have you tried to start it?
 
Hello. I have an Eberspacher air heater, which I believe is similar to or the same as Espar? The unit is probably 30 years old and I'm not exactly sure of the model number, but I think it's in the D7/D8 category. It shut down in the middle of a heating cycle due to fuel starvation problems. The fuel supply is some distance from the heater, so there is an auxilliary pump that supplies a small reservoir, about the size of a cigarette pack. The reservoir has a float and needle valve, and a hose from the bottom of this goes to the fuel metering pump. With the hose disconnected between the metering pump and the furnace we attempted a start to see how much fuel was being pumped. The pumped clicked but no fuel came out. We took all this apart and cleaned a bunch of gunk out of the reservoir - also removed and cleaned the spring/ball valve within the metering pump, as well as the screen on the input side. With it all back together except for the fuel line to the furnace, we again attempted a start - the metering pump clicked, and began pumping fuel (into a cup). We shut it off and connected the fuel line to the pump, but not to the furnace, so we could easily fill that line with fuel before connecting it. Did another start and, no clicking from the metering pump. We tried waiting 15 minutes, pushing the reset button on the furnace, turning off the power circuit breaker for 15 minutes - all to no avail. If left on for the duration, the furnace goes through a complete attempt to start, with air fan blowing, glow plug, and eventual shut down when it doesn't light. The auxilliary pump that supplies the reservoir comes on after about 25 seconds, but the metering pump, which initially started at the same time, no longer starts. Is there some sort of "failsafe" mode that got turned on from our half-start cycles to clear the fuel system? There is no fuel in the combustion chamber. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
~Loren
 
Hi,
I have an espar d3lc heater aboard my boat. It was installed 13 years ago before we set off cruising. it replaced a bulkhead diesel heater. We felt the espar would be a better option for high and low latitude cruising. During the 13 years, it has broken down more than any other piece of equipment. To say that this is getting in the way of our cruising life is an understatement. Last week it failed again so we aborted a southern ocean/tasmania/bass strait cruise and have returned to port to try to repair it again.

It fired fine ran fine when we tested it before leaving port. After 3 days at anchor it failed to fire and we had smoke in the cabin and burnt diesel smell. We'll take it out and rebuild/service it but may now need the damn electronic brain reset or additional spare parts.

Looking for some guidance here: what can cause the flameout? is there an espar/eberspacher service in Tasmania or Australia, if we need one? I could not find one on line. Beyond taking the combustion chamber apart and cleaning it, replacing the glow plug what can we do?

Brian I saw your posts and they are really helpful. Any ideas are welcome.

Thank you.

sailing lady
 
I have a diesel espar on my 3218 motoryacht that stopped working all of a sudden. Is it common for the fuel pump to give up first?

Thanks, Jonathan Anderson
 
Hello Jonathan,

My Espar model 7D, an older unit, stopped working in similar fashion as you describe, with the pulsing fuel pump not 'ticking', followed by a shutdown with failure to ignite. Brian Silk of this forum was extremely helpful in guiding us through getting it back up and running. This was an older unit, with not many replacement parts available. The problem turned out to be not with the fuel pump itself, but with the brushes on the electric fan motor. Apparently the pump, through a control module, picks up the pulses to operate through the brushes. The fan motor was still running fine, but the brushes were worn down to the point that this signal wasn't getting through.

Brian guided us through removing the fan motor and, although the OEM brushes weren't available (it was a Bosch motor), we found an electrical shop that was able to disassemble the motor and modify some other brushes to fit.

One word of caution: during our self-trained attempts at diagnosing the problem and before Brian's guidance kicked in, we disassembled the output end of the little pulse fuel pump. This was a no-no, as this end is factory calibrated and regulates the amount of fuel delivered to the firebox. Once we had the brushes replaced on the motor, we were able to re-calibrate the fuel pump through several iterations of pumping fuel into a measured cup for a specified time until the quantity seemed right. Even so, our first start of the furnace produced enough smoke that people came down the dock in a hurry to see what was on fire. Eventually we had it working fine again with no smoke beyond the initial puff when it starts.

This isn't to say the motor brushes are the problem with your unit, but it's as good a place to start as any, and the brushes were a cheaper fix than a relacement control unit.

Good luck with your unit,

~Loren
 
One other comment - make a test light with a couple wires ending in alligator clips, and the other end connected to a 12 volt light bulb. Clip the two leads to the terminals on your fuel pump. Turn on the furnace - if the light blinks (after the 30 second warmup period),but the pump isn't 'ticking', it's probably the pump. If there's no flashing, then no impulse is being sent to the pump - look towards those motor brushes, or the control module.

~Loren
 
Brian,
I have an old D3L installed in 1985. Yesterday, it was going along well, made a metallic noise (like a bad bearing?) and halted. I'm thinking it's probably best to just go with a new D4 rather than suffer the cost of repair. Is the D4 close enough to the D3L that there will be minimal rework on the installation in my Cape Dory 36? That is, what changes should expect in the, mount, ducting and electrical.

Thanks,
Myles
 
Myles, I will get back to you. I replied this morning , but the system lost it and I will have to redo it. I am sorry about our toll free # it only works in B.C. but if you would like to call we can sort out all the details in 5 min. not an expensive call.
 
Hey Thanks Brian,
Can you try to post again.... I think I'm just going to go ahead with the D4. I don't expect too much difficulty. The truck kit looks pretty complete and I think the existing duct work from the D3L should fit. Old harness will go and be replaced by new. I'm not sure the kit has a thermostat (look like only the rototary switch). So I may need to add that later.

Myles
 
Myles, sorry for the delay. Yes, the D4A is the direct replacement for the D3L. Actually slightly more BTU. You will need to order it with an endhood that fits your ducting, probably 3" on your old D3L. You do not need the truck kit, only the main harness. All your old stuff will work(fuel lines, exhaust, combustionair intake muffler) You do need to make sure you get the fuel pump plug with it as the new fuel pump, which you have to use, has a modular plug on it. You need the plug, and the terminals that come with it. You need special crimpers to crimp the terminals onto the wire, but you could crimp the terminals on roughly with pliers and then solder the connection. All the wires on that harness are plain copper, not tinned as in the marine kit, so you would want to solder all connections, and then spray them with a waxy prtectant eg. FLUID FILM or dielectric grease. The truck kit has an exhaust, that is too small for your thru hull and exhaust elbow. If your existing exhaust is ok, you do not need a new one, and if you do you need 30mm, not the size that comes with the truck kit. The truck kit also comes with a muffler, but it is not suitable for a boat as it is not sealed. It is meant to go under a truck frame. There is a marine muffler available for the D4 that is 30 mm and 5 ft long, and flexible double wall construction. It can be cut down to as little as 26" if needed. It does a fantastic job of muffling, but has a list price of $274.00. MSR in Wash. has a rigid welded muffler about 24 " line that has to be spliced into the exhaust.It retails for about $130.00 It need to have a support bracket mad efor it as it weighs a few pound and need to be supported. You would need 2 more 30mm clamps for that. The new exhaust clamps are made of S/S not like the old ones that rust out. Seal all your joints with muffler cement, or high heat silicone to be safer. Make sure you put in a breaker in the power harness near your batteries, it should be 20 amps. Blue Sea makes one it is a push button resettable one with a threaded shaft for panel mounting. The truck harness is light gauge wire, so cut the power harness part as short as possible for a lower voltage loss. The best controller to get is the Digitroller, it has a digital display and will also display fault codes and you can unlock the heater if it lock out on too many overheats or failed starts.
 
Sorry Jonathan I missed your post as I was on holidays. nSend me a private message and I will get email notification of it. If you still need help.
 
Again, sorry, I was on holidays and did not check the forum. I am sure you have got help since or given up. But if you still want info here it is. If it is not firing, and the glow plug. Coils should be symmetrical with no bulging, and fuel pump are ok then the fuel atomizing screen needs to be replaced Part # 25 1822 06 04 00 You should also check the filter in the fuel pump, in the suction end of the pump.It is inside the pump under the suction spigot, like a thimble inside the pump orofice. DO NOT TOUCH THE NUTS ON THE DELIVERY END OF THE PUMP. The diesel smell is from excess diesel in the exhaust that seeps out the exhaust joints. You should seal the joinst with muffler cement ot high heaqt silicone. One the heater has fired, let it run for an hour on high and the diesel will smoke off eventually. You can check the Espar at 1-800-387- 4800 in Canada for worldwide dealers. Sorry I missed your post.
 
Brian,
Thank you very much for the advice. The new heater is up and running. The sky is cold and rainy.

However (there always is a but,...) I took your advice on the Digi-Controller and up until the point of reading the "Operating Instruction" booklet had not found information that this operated on a 10-hour count-down timer. Is there a way to by-pass or re-programme this "feature"? I am a live-aboard and this is a problem.

Some notes for others:
- esparparts.com (AKA Espar of Michigan) should add additional detail to the individual items on it's ordering Web site. There is no information regarding what is included in the truck kit. Also it is not possible to make your own kit (a la cart) from the available individual items. However, the price of the truck kit is reasonable and for replacement of an existing unit not much goes to waste.
 
Glad to hear that. Funny, all the ones we have used were preset to continuous. I have found that they have to be set a few deg. higher than the desired temp or the heater will not kick up to high to bring the temp up. You may have to play with it. I found that I set it at 25C and the next morning the room temp was 19, and the heater was only running on medium. I kicked it up to about 28 and then the heater kicked up to high. It may not be as good a thermostat as the old style, but the diagnostics are great.
 
Brian,
Do you think anyone interested in buying a used D3L? Possibly for the parts; everything in working order except the blower motor. Not sure it's worth the trouble to post on eBay.

MylesIMG_0151.jpg
 
Hello Myles. If the blower assembly is spinning freely it is of some value as it retails for about $600. in Canada, and the control box for about the same. If the heat exchanger still has an unwarped flame guide(the small doughnut shaped ring that the flame goes through), and the clips for the lier are still mainly intact, then it is of value. again, about $700.
I would put it on for a $1-$200 bucks, alot cheaper than buying a new one for someone that needs one of those and has little funds .You never know, you might get a bite. But it may not be worth your time.
 
Hello Brian,
You helped me earlier this year with an older D7L model heater that wasn't starting. We ended up rebrushing the motor, which got the pulse pump ticking. We even had to recalibrate it, as we did the no-no of touching the output end. But, it was working fine, but now there is no more ticking of the pump. We put the test light back on the connections, and the pump is not getting any pulses. With the new brushes on the motor, does this leave just the pulse control unit as the culprit? One other symptom I can report: the first time it failed to ignite, it seemed like the pump was ticking loudly - next time, not at all.

I appreciate any help/advice you can give.

Thanks...
~Loren
 
Loren, hello. Is the glow plug activating? Check the overheat breaker next to the glow plug. It open circuits the fuel pump when it pops. Some times they will get weak over time and pop even though the overheat sensor did not trip it. If it is not popped and the glow plug is turning on, put a strong magnet on the case of the pulse generator when it should be putting out a pulse.( I can't remember front or back so try both) and see if the pulse returns. When the pulse gen. goes it will either stop putting out completely, or make the pump frequency go faster, slower, then fast again... . The pump usually only gets louder when it has no fuel in it. Also, if the flame sensor is out, it may give a very short cooldown cycle, if the heater is started right after that the heat on the heat exchanger can trigger the overheat sensor and trip the ovht. breaker. Take a look at those and let me know.

Good luck, Brian
 
Brian,

The magnet against the pulse generator did the trick - sort of. When the magnet passed over the right spot, the test light began flashing, and the pump began ticking away. It didn't do it steadily enough and long enough for a start, though. The pulsing stopped momentarily while I was holding the magnet, but then started in again when I removed the magnet. This lasted for 10 or 15 seconds, then it stopped again. So, I suppose this means that the magnet excited or charged some component enough to temporarily restore function?

My guess is that the pulse generator is both expensive and not available for a D7L - is that right? We took the cover off last night to see if we could spot any obvious damage - broken connections or burn marks, but it all looked okay visually. I'm pretty sure the thing was apart some time in the distant past, as evidenced by the aged strapping tape that was around it. I've had the boat for 12 years, so if it was repaired previously, the repair worked for quite some time.

Does the magnet test point to a specific component? I'm not above soldering in something new, but since I don't know a diode from a resistor from a capacitor I would definitely need some guidance in that area.

Thanks for your help, and any suggestions...

~Loren

DSC03754.jpg

Pulse Gen inside.jpg
 
Actually the pulse generator is still available, and is about $400. Time to start thinking about moving on, however, a new D8LC will be upwards of $4000 on the internet. $ 5000 from us. I cannot say for sure which component it is, but I would guess at C1 which looks like a relay-the red cube, but I just don't know for sure. Try the magnet aginst the red cube.
 
Okay, thanks. Time to start thinking indeed - pour some money into a unit that may have many other parts near failure, or start over with lots more money all at once! We're not depending on it for a warm Christmas, so we have time to experiment a bit more as well as ponder. I'll let you know what transpires. Thanks again...
~Loren
 
Brian, I came across a used D7L for cheap that I thought about acquiring for the electronic parts, but found that it was for gasoline, not diesel. Now I have some second thoughts - are the control units and pulse generator any different on the gasoline models or would they work on a diesel unit?
 
Hello Brian, hope you can help with this one, I have searched the web for an answer but no one seems to have the same fault as I do on my D2 Eberspacher fitted in my boat. It was working and then shut itself down - I think it did a partial restart, due to the appearance of some white smoke. It did not restart and I left it alone. When I got back to my berth and switched the engine off I could here a constant clicking from the ECU! I have a mini controller, when I switched this off the clicking continued - to stop it I had to disconnect the harness. I put it back together and got the clicking again - nothing else, so disconnected the harness. Now when I connect and switch on the motor/fan spins upto full speed for about 15-20 seconds, there is one click from the ECU and then all shuts down. I have since checked the:

wiring continuity - all OK
glowplug - resistance appears OK
fuel pump - works when hit with 12v
temperature cut out and flame sensor resistance appear OK
battery voltage is 12.4V
I have used an ECU from a friends and no difference

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Stephen
 
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