Brian silk
Regular Contributor
Can't see the pics. Can you email them. [email protected]
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Good on you. It is 5mm I'd line or 3/16." Any small auto in line filter will do., but it will have to be 3/16" od.
Hi Brian, I understand you are the expert on these heaters and I could use some help. I have an Espar/Airtronic D2 heater in my boat. I seem to be having the opposite issue from most folks, mine won't shut down. I can manually turn the heater on and it cycles and fires up no problem but the temperature settings don't seem to work. I wasn't able to find much information on where the temperature sensor would be so presumed it was in the thermostat/control unit. The local boatyard in Nanaimo thought the same so they replaced the control unit but the issue is still the same. It fires up, heats up but won't turn itself off again. Where is the temperature sensor located? How do I check it for correct operation? Thanks. Henry
Hi Brian,
I have a D4L installed on my boat. Was running 100% OK. Now occasionally stops running, 2 or 3 times a day. Reset by turning on/off works OK but of course, don't want to have to do that. How should I proceed.I have spares the PO left on boat, a glow plug and thermal switch.
Art
s/v Kindred Spirits
I really deal with diesel mostly, but if it was diesel and it smelled like diesel I would suspect a dirty atomizing screen causing difficult ignition and incomplete burning of thecfuel. This would usually be accompanied by visual smoke out the exhaust. Do the smell dissipate shortly after the initial ignition sequence? It should ignite very quickly and cleanly at the 60 second Mark when the fuel pump starts. Also not a bad idea to check the fuel filter in the suction side of the pump. Remove spigot and shine flashlight into the orifice and look for shiny stainless mesh. If it is dirty it can be pried out from the outside edge of the plastic seating flange. And back flushed. Do not touch the output end of the pump!!!! Also lower voltage could cause the glow plug to not heat up as much making harder starts. Gregs d5lc had 11.7 volts at the heater and starts great. Anything Lower than 11.3 or so may cause problems. This is measured at the pos negative plug on the bottom of the control box. Silver 4" square ecu on the harness. If the relay beside the ecu is clicking on and off then your voltage is probably good as it is cutting high voltage on and off. Measure this voltage when the unit is turned on and glow plug is drawing current.
Is the smell in the hot air delivered or outside from the exhaust?
Sorry for the delay. Get a paperclip and jump pins 9 and 11 in the black plug on the bottom of the ecu.. do this with everything plugged in . With jumper in place turn on heater. This unlocks the heater of it locks out. Worth trying.. if that does not do it then it could be a bad or corroded connections in the thermostat plug. If you have wires in sockets 3 and 4 in the thermostat then that should and look make the green led flash a diagnostic code. Long and short dashes repeated every 8 seconds. Yours is and b5lc correct? The led flash is only if you have a "room thermostat" square black with rocker switch and dial with small to large dashes and and terminal strip with 7 terminals. See how that goes. Ifor you try to run a d5lc without the thermostat sensor wires connected it runs on fan only very slow, sounds like yours.
OK. Does it show how to change the atomizing screen in the manual? If it does change that... check glow plug for damage to coil.. fuel filter that's about it. 4 and six is the same as 9 and 11