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Honda 1970 BF 75hp (7.5) Dead Cylinder

Adriel

New member
It's a late 1970's Honda BF75, 4 stroke. Serial BF751007536. Runs rough at idle, stalls with any throttle.

Pulled carb apart, cleaned thoroughly, made sure jet was free of debris. Reassembled. Still rough at idle, stall with throttle.

Removed the spark plug wire from the lower cylinder and there is no difference in roughness - lower cylinder isn't firing for some reason, but upper is. (Removing the spark plug wire from the upper cylinder immediately kills the engine.)

Swapped spark plug wires. Same result. Swapped plugs. Same result. Tested for spark at both cylinders, appears to be just fine.

Figured it was a compression issue or stuck valve. Pulled off head, pulled out valves, cleaned all thoroughly. Replaced valves. Timing and movement of the valves seem to be correct. Checked point with a voltmeter, seemed to be making good contact at both positions as it should. Replaced head gasket and manifold gaskets, reassembled motor.

Same result, lower cylinder not firing.

Tested compression levels, both cylinders check out fine.

What am I missing here?

I know the spark is shared between the two cylinders, so could it be that they are both sparking for the first cylinder's firing, but not for the second cylinders firing? Like I said, I inspected and tested the point and it seemed fine, showing good continuity for both timing points. But...is there a chance that there is no voltage available to the coil at the time of the second cylinders firing? Is there a possibility of a weak magnet in the flywheel, or the primary coil is bad?

Or point me toward something else to look for. Thanks!
 
Re: Honda BF 75 (7.5) Dead Cylinder

On most of these motors both plugs fire at the same time.--------------Fires the mixture on one stroke and fires on the exhaust the next stroke ( not a problem )---------------Have you set the valve clearance?
 
Re: Honda BF 75 (7.5) Dead Cylinder

I realize it is a shared spark, that is why I was thinking it may be firing on the mixture stroke of Cylinder 1 but not the mixture stroke of Cylinder 2. Anyway, yes, the valve clearances were identical between the two cylinders when I pulled the head off.

So... an update. I disconnected the exciter coil and wired the charge coil in it's place. Now Cylinder 2 is firing, cylinder 1 is not. This coil is on the opposite side of the flywheel, so timing wise that may make sense. I pulled the flywheel off, all the magnets seem to be strong. Visually the coils look fine. Put it back together. Wired it back the way it should be.

Pulled the cam shaft gear off, inspected the centrifugal timing adjuster. Visually it looked OK and seemed to operate fine. Put it back together. Widened the breaker point gap. Engine wouldn't start. Tightened the breaker point gap, and the engine came to life. Both pistons are firing now. But.... there are quite a few partial backfires so timing seems to be off some still.

So... Any thoughts out there? Is there a way to measure the centrifugal timing advance unit, or should it just be replaced? What is the gap that should exist at the breaker point? (I don't have a manual, anyone have that measurement handy?) Is this possibly a sign of a bad condenser?

Thanks for the help!
 
Re: Honda BF 75 (7.5) Dead Cylinder

What do you mean when you say " mixture stroke " ??--------------Each plug should fire every revolution, when piston is near TDC.-------------------Maybe it just needs a new coil,-----will both plug wires fire a gap of say 5/16" ( are they both equal strength?? ) is the important point.
 
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Re: Honda BF 75 (7.5) Dead Cylinder

You can check the mechanical advance with a timing light. The base timing is listed as 15*btdc and goes to 35*btdc. total advance. If you have not verified base timing, you need to do that first.

Verify that the "T" mark on flywheel aligns with the punch mark on the cam pulley when the piston is at TDC (valves closed) This is cam and valve timing.

Verify that the advance mechanism is completely retracted and moves freely.

Rotate engine one revolution until "F" mark on flywheel lines up with punch mark on cam pulley and adjust point gap.
0.3-0.4mm (.012-.016 in.)

Assuming the timing marks are aligned properly, you can use a protractor to index some degree marks on the flywheel with chalk and use the light to check that the advance is working. The light should pulse and illuminate the "F" on the flywheel as it is in close approximation to being aligned with the punch mark on the cam pulley and the "chisel" mark on the starter support AT IDLE.

I'd guestimate about 22* advance at about half throttle. This would translate to about 7 or 8 degrees from base and then should return to base immediately with release of throttle. I don't recommend full throttle testing with the engine not loaded.

If it goes out too far at half throttle, (or is out of whack at idle) then the springs are weak and should be replaced. If it sticks advanced or returns very slowly, then it should be thoroughly cleaned and lubed and I would still think about new springs. I don't think the advance mech or springs are still available but the springs should be easy enough to substitute for with a little experimentation.

Other things to consider are:

condenser is rated at 24 mfd (big cause of breaker point ignition troubles)

primary ignition winding (under flywheel) rated at 2 ohms.

check ignition coil resistance as follows:
remove plug wires and check that resistance between the wire sockets is 8k ohms (+/- 20% depending on ambient temperature)
resistance of primary spark winding is 0.56 ohms (+/- 10%)

Listed standard plug is NGK DR-5HS
Alternate plug is NGK DR-4HS
Gap is listed at 0.6-0.7 mm (.024-.028 in)

Hope this does you some good. Let us know what you find.
jimmyd
 
Re: Honda BF 75 (7.5) Dead Cylinder

You have had an interesting voyage with this motor so far. You have done well with no manual.
I do not see too many of these older ones since they just seem to work or are cooked. The points and carbs are typically the issues.

I have copied most of the the following from the manual.

To set the points, connect on ohmmeter between the points and ground. You will have to disconnect the points from the coil.

Rotate the flywheel to align the "F" mark on the flywheel to the index mark on the starter case. At this time, the points should just start to open (15 deg BTDC). The ohmmeter will go to infinity (open0 when the points are open.

Readjust the points to make the above happen.

Rotate the flywheel one full turn and check the timing for the other cylinder. Readjust the points if necessary so that the timing will be correct as possible for both cylinders.

Hope this helps.

Mike
 
Re: Honda BF 75 (7.5) Dead Cylinder

Thank you very much for the timing information! I adjusted the point (single point in this engine) for a slightly larger gap and both cylinders are firing now, though the timing is off still and not completely smooth. I knew what the "T" mark on the flywheel was for, but I was wondering what the "F" mark was for, makes sense now. When I have a free evening this week I'll go back and adjust the gap to open at that mark, and then run a timing light to check the advance (and spring strength).

Thanks again for the technical info, I'll let you know what I find.
 
Re: Honda 1970 BF 75 (7.5) Dead Cylinder

Update:

I replaced the point with a new set including new wires, new condenser, etc... Set timing as described above and engine still running about as I described in the post above - both cylinders firing now, but not completely smooth.

We took the boat to the lake on Thursday and the engine did great at about what I would think is 3/4 throttle. Any higher it would seem to choke itself and I would have to dethrottle back to 3/4 to maintain power. Problem is that it wasn't idling well, and it died off multiple times while I was motoring the boat back from the dock to the trailer. That's no good.

I went ahead and picked up a timing light and a replacement throttle advance spring (from a Ford 305 - seemed similar enough). I installed the new spring - engine worked about the same. The timing seems to be all over the place, it's hard to even capture the marks in the light, as maybe every fourth or fifth revolution will they come into the strobe's beam. Maybe I have a bad timing light, or maybe this is to be expected with breaker points? I tested across the coil - 34K between the plug wires, and 2 ohms for the primary. These are different than jimmyd listed above, but the ratio comes out to about the same.

I adjusted the timing as best I could via trial and error, adjusted the idle throttle settings so the engine wouldn't die out. It backfires occasionally when revved, but does tend to smooth out - of course this is without a load. My wife was kind enough to take a short video of the result for your analysis. If this is about as good as I should expect then I'll quite futzing with it. Let me know what you think.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0WdqpWVatQ
 
Re: Honda 1970 BF 75 (7.5) Dead Cylinder

Wow, sounds more like a two stroke than a 4 stroke. I've not heard many Honda 4 strokes (other than my own 30HP) and yours sounds funny. Carburetion issues?
 
Re: Honda 1970 BF 75 (7.5) Dead Cylinder

It is still not running on both cylinders.---------------What gap can the spark jump on this.-------is it 1/4" or better???
 
Re: Honda 1970 BF 75 (7.5) Dead Cylinder

Wow, that is pretty ragged! It does sound a bit like a coil breaking down. When you say you measured 2 ohms across the primary, was that on the ignition coil or the "exciter" coil under the flywheel? If you got 2 ohms resistance from the ignition coil, then that is WAY TOO MUCH, on the order of 4 times the resistance, and you may have a bad coil.

Your secondary measurement of 34K ohms seems high but then it sounds as if you didn't remove the spark plug wires to do the check so who knows? One foot of spark plug wire will have somewhere around 12k ohms so 12 plus 8 is still only 20k or so.

If it were me, I"d have fresh plugs, new points, a new condenser, and if at all possible, new wires before going any further. These are all cheap and easy to replace and can serve as spares even if they don't cure the problem.

One trick you can try is to run the engine with the hood off, in the dark, and if you see any sparks from the coil or plug wires, that would indicate leakage and might point you in the right direction. Good luck.
 
Re: Honda 1970 BF 75 (7.5) Dead Cylinder

Yes, the 2 ohms was the ignition coil resistance. And yes, I didn't remove the spark plug wires for the secondary.

At this point I have fresh plugs, new points, new condenser. But it looks like the ignition coil and wire set is no longer available as a part. Any leads on where to pick one up? Does anyone have some junkyard Honda's with a good coil?

I'll try running this in the evening to look for spark jumps, and to see what length of spark gap I can get.
 
Re: Honda 1970 BF 75 (7.5) Dead Cylinder

I have a couple of those early 7.5 Honda motors.---------------One was missing the coil.----------------------I have to see over this winter if coils from a motor with similar ignition can be used / adapted.
 
I chatted with a fellow who has worked on these engines for 30 years and his advice was that it is not the ignition coil - in all 30 years he has only seen one ignition coil go bad on these motors. He suggested cleaning and polishing the points, cleaning the plugs, and reworking the carburetor again, making sure all the needle holes and idle holes are clean and flowing right.

I did all of this, and I'm still in the same place. Lower cylinder is pretty much off when idling, when I crank it up I can hear the tone of the motor change as the lower cylinder kicks in and then back out again, randomly. If the lower plug gets too fouled up from not firing it won't kick in at all, relying on the upper cylinder only. Clean it up and it's back to cycling in and out.

I did run the engine at night, and didn't see any spark leaks.

Is there anything that could be causing these symptoms other than the ignition coil at this point?
 
A couple of things come to mind after re-reading your original post:

You stated that compression for both cylinders was "fine". Did you have a number for that or was it the old "finger in the hole" method. A fresh engine is supposed to have 142 psi compression at 600 rpm and I would worry about an engine that exhibited a 20% loss of seal or, in this case any thing under 115 to 120 psi.

The other thing an actual gauge reading would give us is an accurate comparison of the compression between the reliable cylinder and the dead one.

It is a common practice these days, in automotive repair, to perform a "running" compression test on suspect cylinders even when the cranking test looks ok. The running test points out problems with valve springs not closing the valves quickly enough. I don't have any experience doing a running compression test on these outboards though so can't give you any hard and fast data on what it is supposed to look like. On a car, running compression pressures are typically much LOWER than a cranking test but, here again, comparisons with other cylinders that are firing properly is what we are looking for.

So, the short answer to your question is yes, in my opinion, a poor cylinder seal COULD be causing your problem rather than the coil. I'd be looking there for some answers and if nothing jumps out, you probably need a new coil.

I would think it would be ok to use a later model coil on that engine as a replacement but I will need to look into the specifications of the magneto to see if there is a problem with doing so.

Maybe Mike (hondadude) can shed some light here. Hopefully he's monitoring this thread and he can keep me honest. I'll look into it and get back to you.
 
Compression #'s would help.------------------We may be looking at a burnt or bent valve.---------------Testing and trouble shooting beats guessing every time.---------What gap will the spark jump on this motor , give us a number as in 1/8" / 3/16" or 1/4"
 
I am with everyone else. What are the compression numbers (with wide open throttle)?

Jimmy, I got a different resistance value for the primary. My spec book says 1.8 - 2.2 ohm for breaker points. I measured a known good spark coil primary winding for a B75 at work and got 2.3 ohm. Your resistance measurements seem to be in the ballpark. The these coils were only used on B75, B75Z, B100, and B100Z. Although the coils for the later B75's and BF8's look the same, they are for CDI type ignition and the resistance values are different. Therefore, they will have unknown results. I agree with the conversation on the spark coils. I have only replaced one in 15 years...and that one had a spark plug wire jerked out of it.

Once compression is resolved and good....
I would recheck the point setting again using the ohm meter method and not the gap method. I think it will be more accurate. It has never failed for me (although I have not done many).

Remember to check it for both cylinders by rotating the flywheel from one F mark to the other.

Another long shot....check the intake manifold near where the carb attaches for any debris or corrosion in the "pipe". The BF8's have a little ridge (like a little speed bump) on the bottom of the intake manifold pipe....directing the fuel flow away from the bottom cylinder....making for even firing. If something is going on in there, it could be causing more fuel to go to the lower cylinder. I have only seen this one time.

Also, try the DR4HS plugs...they are a little hotter than the DR5HS and might help keep that bottom one clean.

One last thing...may sure the motor is coming up to temperature. If it is running cold, it will not idle properly. Thermostat opens 158- 176 deg F

Just some thoughts...but compression should be #1 and spark jump should be a close #2.

Mike
 
Thanks everyone. I'll go get my hands on a compression tester again. I know both cylinders tested above 90 psi, which I thought would be plenty and I moved on. I'll run the tests in the ways you have suggested and check back in with the results. And I'll retime again and get the motor up to temperature, and check that manifold pipe too.
 
Compression test - upper cylinder (runs well) is 120 psi, lower cylinder (bad) is 150 psi. I don't rally have any way to make a running test, so that was just each cylinder after a number of pulls on the starter string. Spark jumps about 1/4 inch, maybe a bit more. My voltmeter battery is out, so retiming again based on honadude's method will need to wait until another night. I let the engine warm up, and didn't notice any difference in idle roughness.
 
Wow! What a discrepancy on the coil numbers Mike! You're right! (as usual). I went back and re-read the specs out of my Helm Inc. and it says resistance should be:

Breaker point ignition type coil= 0.56 ohm primary
and 8k ohm secondary

I got off my butt and went out and measured a running 1977 10 h.p. engine's coil that has breaker point ignition and got these readings using a Fluke 87 multimeter;

Primary spark coil windings= 1.5 ohm
Secondary windings= 31.5k ohm

I then measured a CDI spark 1984 7.5 engine coil and got these readings:

Primary= 0.8 ohm
Seconday= 31.5k ohm.

Makes me wonder now about some of the other specifications in that manual. Sorry for any confusion I may have caused. Thanks Mike I'll be doing some writing in that manual to change the info.
 
Progress!

I checked the manifold for any debris headed into the lower cylinder, nothing that I could find. I also reset the timing, the contact is closing right at the "T" mark on both rotations.

The fact that the compression tests were different on each cylinder got me thinking. I drained the oil, popped open the cam shaft cover again, and set the lower valves to the same levels as the upper valves. Both cylinders are now at 135lbs/sq-in for compression. After refilling the oil I started it back up and found both cylinders are firing now!

Great! But, it's still not exactly running smoothly yet.

At one point I had it up to a good amount of throttle and I hear this "thwupp, thwupp, thwupp" and up float three bug eggs. I assume they were somewhere in the exhaust tube. Things ran a bit smoother after that, but still not perfect. I ran a wire up the exhaust tube and didn't seem to get any resistance so it doesn't seem like there's anything else in there. I ran some high pressure air through as well, seemed clear.

What I am seeing now:

- As I throttle the engine it seems to need to climb slowly to the new throttle setting, and that climb is fairly unsteady.
- Anything more than 1/2 throttle creates the sound of more air sucking through the carb but doesn't seem to create any extra power, in fact I would say the power becomes less. (Could that simply be due to cavitation behind the prop in this small test tank?)
- The idle tends to wind down in speed, slowly, over 10 or 15 seconds, until it gets to the point that it can't maintain spark.
- Without the propeller engaged, there is quite a bit of backfiring when I throttle up - this doesn't seem to happen when there is a load.

Here are two sample videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iL2A2ZesB2Q
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ea-uWkkAT5I

Question: There are two breather holes on the aft of the lower unit, right where it joins the upper unit. Should any exhaust be coming out of these holes? There seems to be quite a bit blowing through.
 
The back firing indicates to me " weak spark "--------------------It won't fire on the compression stroke ( not able to ) but then fires that mixture during the exhaust / intake event.
 
Sounds like there is improvement.

You said that the points are set to close at the T mark. The manual says they are supposed to open at the F mark. I am not sure if that will be the same timing. I will repeat my quoting of the manual for setting the timing.

"To set the points, connect on ohmmeter between the points and ground. You will have to disconnect the points from the coil.

Rotate the flywheel to align the "F" mark on the flywheel to the index mark on the starter case. At this time, the points should just start to open (15 deg BTDC). The ohmmeter will go to infinity (open0 when the points are open.

Readjust the points to make the above happen."


Not sure if that is your problem, but it is an inconsistancy.

Mike
 
To answer the question about the two small holes at the aft, top of the extension case:

I don't have a ton of experience with these motors but I do have a couple torn down right now and the exhaust system consists of a metal pipe that comes down out of the oil case and "blows" directly into that extension case and the gasses are supposed to exit into the water down under the cavitation plate. This acts as the muffler "system". It is my opinion that those two holes act as vacuum "breaks" or vents for that chamber and allows for the flow of the exhaust gasses going down and out of the case to draw in a small amount of fresh air to provide for a bit of cooling in there.

The fact that you are seeing exhaust smoke coming form those two holes is probably not too unusual, especially since you are running it in that confined tank and have the prop turning which could interfere with the exhaust stream exiting efficiently and backing up into the chamber.

It does make me wonder though. Could there be some blockage at the exit point (tailpipe if you will) at the cavitation plate? Worth taking a look. Also, I was wondering if you had tried running the engine with the hood off to see if that makes a difference in the way it performs? These motors do have issues with the exhaust pipe seal or gasket leaking and causing running problems when the hood fills with exhaust gasses and robs the engine of oxygen. Worth a try.

Other observations are:
Move your gas tank! In the videos, you are sloshing water all over it. I wouldn't be surprised if you haven't had some get in through the vent.

What is the ACTUAL valve clearance that you set? Should be 0.002-0.004in. for both intake and exhaust. Setting one just to match the other is not a good practice.

You had the valves out already you said? Did you replace the head gasket? At one point you stated that the valve clearances were "identical" Then you said you found that they didn't match. What changed if anything? Did you check the valve to seat contact when you were in there before? I have the specs for the widths if you want them along with the valve spring free heights to eliminate them as being a problem.

Keep massaging it, you'll get it eventually. We're all here learning right along with you.
 
Jimmyd, thanks for the good input. Yes, I should definitely move the fuel tank, good point. I haven't been splashing water around until today, and out of habit had the tank in the same place as usual.

Yes, I did replace the head gasket when I pulled the head off. At the time I wasn't too concerned with valve gaps as I was looking more towards a blown head gasket or a seized valve. So I made sure the valves were seated well and were clean, and visually they seemed to have the same amount of rise and moved on. This was before I was on this forum, so I had neither a manual or the info that you provided, and simply put it back together with new gaskets - hoping that all the gunk I had scrubbed out had been causing all the problems. Looking back I should have spent more time in there and made proper adjustments. Amateur mistake.

This afternoon when I pulled the cam cover off I saw that there were far fewer threads exposed on the lower exhaust valve arm than there were on the arm for the top cylinder exhaust. So I adjusted the lower to match the upper, and when I did the compression tests between the two cylinders evened out. That's not to say they are both where they should be, but they match now.

Is there a way to measure valve gapping without pulling the head back off and having to replace the head gasket again? (That's a pretty spendy part). Are the valve spring heights that you have useful towards this?

There isn't a difference when I run with the cover off or on, so there doesn't seem to be an exhaust leak.

racerone, I don't think this is weak spark at this point, I can pull the spark plug connector over 1/4" off the spark plug and still get spark.
 
I'm not clear as to what you mean by "valve gapping" so bear with me as I'm not trying to insult you, I just don't know what you know or what you don't know.

There HAS TO BE a given amount of space (0.002-0.004 inch) between the rocker arm and the end of the valve stem when the piston is at TDC and the valves are closed. The engine timing mark is aligned on the "T" for each cylinder to perform this adjustment. This space is measured with a feeler gauge when the rocker is sitting on the "heel" of the cam. Too much space (clearance) and the valves will open late and close too early affecting performance. Not enough clearance, and the valves will open way too soon and, if the clearance is tight enough, the valve might not ever be able close and seal entirely. This is the worst case. If the valve is held constantly on the edge of being open, it will never allow compression to build properly and with too little time being in contact with the valve seat in the head, it cannot cool and will eventually burn. Combustion will continuously leak past the edges of the valve (backfire) and also burn the valve edges and seat while causing carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. There is also the danger of the valve contacting the top of the piston if it doesn't "get out of the way" in time. In short, tight valve clearance is a quick engine killer.

I'd really like to see you do the valve adjustment "by the book" before you go any further. The motor appears to start fairly easily so it is probably still sound but if the valve adjustment is out of whack, it will be hurt in short order.

I also really don't understand your compression readings from before. You listed the top cylinder at 150 psi and the lower at 120. Then you say you adjusted the lower valves to match the uppers and you got 135 and 135 psi respectively. I'm trying to figure out how adjusting the lower cylinder valve clearances changed the upper cylinder's compression pressure. That shouldn't have happened. The only way the two cylinders are connected is through the head gasket. If the head gasket develops a leak it is possible for one cylinder to leak pressure to the other. That has me concerned. But, you could have made an error in the first reading and maybe that's all it is. I think a proper valve adjustment is the first thing to try. Let me know if all of this makes sense to you or not.
 
Jimmyd, that is the lesson I needed! Thanks! The clearances were way off. Top exhaust was way above .025, top intake was .008, bottom intake .004 and bottom exhaust way above .025. I set everything to .003 and that made all the difference. I had to do a bit of timing adjustment to allow the engine to idle, but it seems to be working very well now. Throttle up and the engine responds instantly. Idle seems solid and steady. No more sucking sounds at high throttle, just lots of power. I think I'm going to call this good!

Here's the proof: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UyEjdJmCJ5I
(Note - The stream of water behind the engine is from the garden hose, it's not coming from the engine itself.)

Just for kicks I did another compression test after the engine was running well. Top cylinder is now 135 lbs/in, bottom is now 120 lbs/in. There is some discrepancy, but since it is running well without any misses or backfires through the full throttle range I'm going to assume it's within tolerances.

One last question. My local auto store doesn't have marine grade 10W/30 oil, so in the last flush I used a high grade synthetic automobile 10W/30. Does Marine grade engine oil (ie. Honda Outboard brand) have special qualities, or will the stuff I have in there work well?

Thanks everyone for the help! I have learned quite a bit since acquiring this engine a few weeks back and feel much more confident in it's maintenance.
 
Very encouraging video! Yes, the lower compression reading is a bit low and in a perfect world, the two cylinders should be within 10% of each other as a rule of thumb. But the proof will be in how she does her job on the water. I learned a long time ago not to call it good until the test drive. It sure does look like she wants to power the boat down the driveway though!

As far as the oil is concerned, I would recommend NOT using the synthetic oil. Any brand of modern day 10w/30, automotive, petroleum based motor oil is adequate for that engine. Look at the little API (American Petroleum Institute) label on the back of most oil containers and see that there will be an SM rating. When that engine was built, the API rating was probably SF or SG. They started that rating system back in the 1960's with SA and go up in the alphabet on the second letter with each upgrade. The new oils are "backward compatible" with any previous rating so you will be well protected.

The reason I don't suggest synthetic is that when that engine was built, the crank seals and portions of the oil pick up screen and tube assembly were not formulated for synthetics and could actually be destroyed by the blend. I don't think Honda is even yet overtly recommending syn oils for their engines.

The real lesson here for all of us is that you should have had a service manual in hand before digging so deep. Most of us regulars here are always preaching that and, as you can see, the chapter on valve adjustment would probably have had you running strong before even posting here.

BUT! And it's a big BUT. during all this, your problem pointed up a problem with my own Honda Helm Inc. manual's specifications for the spark coil. So the manual isn't always right either.

Thanks for taking us on your journey with that bad girl and I hope she gives you good service.
 
Thanks for the tip on the oil. I ran the engine last night until it was warm, drained the synthetic oil and replaced it with conventional, ran the engine another five minutes, and replaced the oil again, hopefully getting all the synthetic out of the system.

Yes, I should have had a shop manual to begin with. The local Honda dealership was out of the manuals when I first went looking for parts, and in my eagerness I just tore into the engine looking for obvious problems. So... What manual would you recommend?

The Helm: http://www.helminc.com/helm/product...from=result&Style=helm&Sku=6193503&itemtype=N

The Chilton: http://www.powells.com/biblio/72-9780893300487-0

Or Helm also has the spec guide, might that be enough?: http://www.helminc.com/helm/product...=&from=result&Style=helm&Sku=TM042&itemtype=N

I'm looking forward to a break in the weather to get the boat out on the water again, but that's asking a little much here in Oregon this time of the year. I'll post the results when I do. For anyone that's interested, here's a bit more about the boat attached to this motor: http://familyblog.adrielhenderson.com/2010/10/hello-to-davidite.html

Thanks again!
 
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