Now I have easy starting every time, no more excessive wear on starters or embarrasing wondering if motors will ever start. Will work on any dual carb setup.
What I did to fix this
1.* Carter electric pump
2.* Holley regulator, regulator has one input and 2 outputs and adjustable from 1 to 4 PSI
3.* pressure gauge
4.* fuel splitter block tee, mine was aluminum and originally made for duel carb setups
5.* 2 anti siphon one way valves, OMC, brass,* same as tank anti siphon valves* (needed to keep engine fuel pumps from back feeding to other engine carb, not good if one engine is running and other is not to back feed fuel)
6.* marine cannister fuel filter, the one with 4 hookups on top, all you really need is some kind of fuel filter here in the line before the Carter electric pump.
7. assorted A1 rubber fuel line, brass fittings, clamps, etc...
attach regulator input directly to electric pump output and attach pressure gauge to one output side of regulator
other regulator output goes to fuel splitter tee
attach 2 anti siphon valves to fuel splitter tee outputs
rubber hose join regulator output to fuel splitter tee input
Run a fuel tank input into the marine filter (using a can filter allows easier electric pump priming of fuel from tank and pump only sees filtered fuel)
marine filter output to electric pump input
electric pump to the fuel tee splitter block with the anti siphon output valves on the output
Output of tee splitter with anti siphon valves goes to each carb fuel inlet
On the carb fuel inlet, you need to tee this to receive fuel from both original mechanical pump and electric pump.
For carb hookup, I took a 3/8 steel fuel nut (like off a metal fuel line) and tapped steel fuel nut hole to 1/8 plug fitting
epoxied outside threads on tapped nut and screwed into carb inlet fitting (the one that holds the filter, not the carb body itself, epoxy to ensure it wont come apart)
Got a special metal fitting that screws into the tapped nut. This is a special fitting with a 1/8 pipe thread on one side, and a 5/16 flare nut fitting on the other. The nut spins freely and nicely attaches to the 5/16 flare tee fitting that accepts fuel from mechanical pump line or carter electric pump line. It makes it very easy to remove for carb service. Hampton Rubber carries this for $5, Hydra Hose did not have that fitting. (Perhaps you can go from tubing nut reverse flare on carb to 5/16 flare with nut directly, I do not know.) Using the adapter makes it easy to align the tee and take apart later.
It might seem complex, but it is not. With this in place, I can safely pump fuel to both engines using one electric pump and keep the original mechanical pumps fully operational.
Alternatively, I could have used 2 electric pumps with 2 regulators and gauges, but that means doubling the costs. I could also get rid of mechanical pumps but I like them and consider my electric pump a carb priming backup system.
the special metal swivel adapter fitting was Aeroquip 2018-2-4S adapter SAE 37
their number is 757-722-9818 If you need more info on it.
also found it here
http://www.valleyhydraulic.com/JIC_Fittings.html
External Pipe / 37° Flare Swivel (JIC)
Aeroquip # 2018-x-x-s
Parker # x-x-F6X-S
My hookup at the carb uses a 5/16 tee flare and my 2 rubber lines use the press on brass flare nut fitting. They are good for 40PSI, but I still used clamps. Doing it this way makes things easy to take apart and put together. Most of the other attachments I used simple brass hose fittings and screw clamps.
is.........when was the last time you had a real good tune-up? And further........ Has this procedure been a problem since you have had the boat/engines?
