Water pump impeller kit OR pump impeller kit

Hi folks, I'm getting no water out of my telltale - so I'm suspecting issues with water pump. I don't have a history with this outboard (Honda 30 2001 SS), so I'm sure the impeller is dried out/damaged/etc.

So, I'm planning to order a replacement kit. I think Hondadude mentioned it best to buy the kit - not just the impeller. But, I have two kits that I could purchase - water pump impeller kit or a pump impeller kit. They're not priced the same either.

Which one should I purchase. Hopefully this link takes you to my outboard and the various options: http://www.boats.net/parts/search/H... VIN# BAWS-3210001 TO BAWS-3219999/parts.html

Chuck

If you have no idea if the water pump has ever been serviced or if you have had an overheat, you should use a 06193-ZV7-010 (water pump service kit). http://marine.honda.com/pdf/accessories/ml.rerap45a.MAC_Water_Pump.pdf
It includes housing, cup, impeller, gaskets, bolts, etc. That way everything is new and ready to go. This is neither of the two you are asking about.

If you do not go the complete route, at least get the kit that has a new plate and gaskets. Although, you really do not know what you have until you get in there.

Also, remove your thermostat and backflush the motor from the thermostat housing when you have the lower unit off.

That way you can check the thermostat and be sure that no debris is blocking any passages. Be sure to check under the water pump for any impeller pieces if your impeller is missing any pieces.

With that said...no water out of the telltale...could be just a plugged up telltale. A long skinney wire or compressed air blown back into the indicator could fix the problem. If it keeps plugging up, you may have to remove the hose from the indicator fitting to get the debris that is too big to fit through the indicator.

Mike

Mike, I've studied things closely. I think the 06193-zv7-020 is a superceding part for the one you called out. That's also one of the two kits that I reference - yet the picture doesn't show the same as the PDF file. However, if I search on your part and see everything you call out. When i search on the sup part (previously mentioned), it doesn't show a picture. It's a bit confusing, but I think that's the one with all the parts. By the new 'plate' - are you referencing part 19231-ZV7-000 , the impeller cover?

I'll post some pictures soon, but impeller, housing, plate, etc looked ok. The seal 19253-ZV5-000 was installed oddly and was pinched. I wonder if this caused no flow. By the way, I took off the entire housing, including the thermostat. The anode was pretty nasty, so I'll replace that. Everything looked fine there too. I'll take some pictures and post later.

Ok, here's some pictures:

Note that the seal that is in the pump that mates to the water tube in the midsection has a crimp in it. Not sure if that's the issue, but it's definitely crimped. What do you think?

Your right...the water pump rebuild kit does supercede. It does have all the parts. The water tube seal, as you have noticed may be causing the problem. I do not see an o ring around the base of the water pump housing. Perhaps it fell off. If it was not there, it would definitely cause a cooling problem.

Most definitely change your thermostat, gasket, anode, and o ring that goes around the cover for the water passage.

Still check for a clear passage from the water pickups to the water pump. Do not forget the pickup that is just above the propeller. Then, backflush really good.

Mike

Just a quick update. I replaced virtually all the parts of the water pump (not the plate or the cup - but everything else). Backflushed through thermostat opening - water came out nicely. Then reassembled and connected my water flush connector (order that as well). Unfortunately this only pushed water out below the cavitation plate - nothing out the telltale. Regardless, filled bucket with water up to cavitation plate and fired up the engine. It 'peed' nicely and I'm feeling like the cooling system is now just fine.

Does anyone know how the 'engine flush' port and attachment is supposed to work? I would have assumed that water would have been pushed through the cylinder water passages as part of the flush - otherwise what's the point? What might be wrong?

I think if you check your manual, when you use the flush attachment, you are supposed to tape up the three water intakes on your lower unit. The two are obvious (one on each side) and one just above the prop. Once those are taped up, it will allow enough pressure to build up for water to come out your indicator.

Just remember to not run the engine when using this adapter.

Mike

Thanks Mike. I read the manual and didn't see anything about sealing the ports. But, if I study the illustrations, it's clear that they are covered. I'll give that a shot. My outboard doesn't have the original bolt and washer for the flush port. If that is missing, would that have caused me to not see the telltale? I noticed in the manual that this must be removed prior to installing the flushing adapter. I had this installed prior to running the engine. When it just shot out the intakes, I let it fill the tank the outboard was already in. I left it in place (but not with water pressure) and started the engine. The water pump picked up water from the tank and the telltale was peeing. I wonder now if the water pump was working before - but shooting water out this port instead of through the engine?!?!?!

You are right! There are only pictures of the taped ports. At least on Page 68, the tape is labeled in the pictures.

The water pump may have been ok all the time. If you have not changed the impeller since 2001, it is well past time that it is done anyway. So it is not wasted time. Do make sure you have the flush port screw installed. Without it, it may suck air and not pump effeciently.

I am glad you have solved the problem.

Mike