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changing Impellers-HELP 1992 454

S

suite64

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Greetings - first time changing impellers on 1992 Crusader 454 XL (s#90033, 90034). Purchased Crusader Operation and Maintenance manual, reviewed it and thought this would be a snap. Ah, the best laid plans . . . . Engines were running fine all season as far as temp but was i STUNNED/SHOCKED when I observed the condition of the port impeller. Tips of all fins torn and half of one fin missing on port impeller. All fins "set". Groove worn in wear plate and cover! So -- -- Pulled impeller, using pliers. Is there an actual tool for pulling impeller? Sorry for ignorance. Ordered major rebuild kit for both water pumps from West marine. Better safe than sorry. Any tips, tricks, procedures would be GREATLY appreciated. Just thankful it's the end of the season up here in Buffalo, NY but more importantly, I didn't cook an engine!

dave
 
Re: changing Impellers-HELP

They do make a tool to pull the impeller but I always just use a big needle nose pliers. Not a good idea if you want to use the impeller again as it is usually damaged getting it out. The big issue is the missing fin. As in where is it? From what I've read most of the time it is stuck in the u cooler. I had an old Chrysler 318 and found a bunch of them stuck in the angled hose connection at the back of the manifold. They almost made it out! Also, from what I've read, make sure you get the fins going in the right direction because they may not "flip" the right way if you put them in wrong.
 
Re: changing Impellers-HELP

Your location says Buffalo, NY.
You may be starting your winterizing process! If so, I'd suggest waiting until re-commissioning in Spring time to install new impellers.
Three/four blades will be bent over while the impeller is stationary within the pump body during the lay-up duration. This is when the rubber takes a "set", and the impeller starts to degrade some!
IMO, there is no sense in allowing one to sit like this all winter.

Just my take on that!
 
Re: changing Impellers-HELP

Certainly if ready for haulout, wait until spring. BUT, IF you're like us, we wait almost until the night before the big one before we give up on going out fishing SO... use a non-petroleum based lubricant upon reinstallation of the impeller and as mentioned, set the fins in the direction of rotation. The groove in the cover you will replace with the new one from the major kit. Replacing the rubber will be easier than removal as the lube and your flexing the vanes will help insure that. I would IMAGINE if you are using the parts form a MOJOR kit, you are doing it at a bench or table and that alone, makes it weasier to re assemble it all
 
Re: changing Impellers-HELP

Probably the easiest way to remove the impellor is to use two flat screwdrivers on opposite sites and "pry" out the old impellor. In fact, I have a like new stainless puller and don't use it. Anyone want it?? The Sherwood E35 major kit does NOT contain a new cover, btw, only the graphite cover bearing.

I might be in the minority, but I don't care about rotation when installing the impellor. I do use liquid dishsoap and just put it in. My experience is a new, lubricated impellor has no issue changing direction on a E35. I would make it turn in the correct direction manually when installing the assembled pump, just to be sure.
 
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Re: changing Impellers-HELP

I agree with diver dave. I basically get it in any way I can. It can be a "pita" and frustrating getting the key to line up. Then I spin it with the cover off to make sure the fins go in the right direction. They always "flip" for me but I've read on this board that they don't so better to be sure.
 
Re: changing Impellers-HELP

Thanks for all the input from those that replied. Decided to rebuild and put in new impellers. Not pulling boat for a few weeks. Was straightforward with the exception of remounting the port pump upside-down. Now you might be asking how is that possible, since in nearly ALL of online views and in my manual the pump is a "U". But, in the model year of my Crusaders, the pump was mounted to the engine block on a plate. Well, I was so focused on noting the direction of rotation of the impeller, I really did not take notice of the actual pump orientation. So, after some cursing, taking the pump off to inspect the impeller(a few times), disconnecting oil cooler hose and looking for any obstructions (none), inspecting risers for obstructions (none), more cursing and a few beers, I checked the orientation of the stbd pump and reinstalled the pt pump 180 degrees opposite. Low and behold lots of fresh water out exhaust. On a plus note, I can change the impellers now in 15 minutes flat!!! ;)

Thanks again for all the input!
Dave
Suite 64
 
Re: changing Impellers-HELP

Dave, nice recovery! I also use some water proof silicon grease called Super Lube on rubber impellers, o-rings and contact surfaces which helps and does not wash out, I get it at the local Marina but I see Harbor Freight also carries it now. When I rebuild my spare pumps I add some stuff called Pump Armor and cap the ports. The Pump Armor is the same stuff used for Airless Paint Sprayers and Pressure Washers to protect and lubricate the pump heads when they are not being used, I get it at Home Depot.

mike
 
Re: changing Impellers-HELP

Hey Mike, Thanks for the lead on Super Lube. Picked some up tonight for the next time.

dave
 
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