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Tohatsu 9.8 idle problem

chrisbarlow

New member
Engine won't idle... runs fine at high speed but stalls when changing gear or in neutral.
Background-- this is a dinghy engine with little use that came out of winter storage with this problem. Mechanic played around for a day but couldn't fix so I bought a new carb and installed with new fuel. It ran fine for one day, purred like a kitten at idle-- then the next day the same problem-- won't idle! Any ideas?
 
What model/serial? (Is it a 2-stroke or 4-stroke, electric choke or mechanical?) These problems are typically carburetion, but it could be a number of things. Even with new fuel in the tank, some remaining contaminated fuel could put junk in a new carb. Did you set the idle speed with a tach? Could be adjusted a little slow. Needs to be about 900 RPM warm idle.
 
Thanks for the reply. It is a MFS98A3. Changed gas tank and gas line when I changed installed new carb and didn't touch idle as it was working fine for one day! I'm at a loss as to why the problem recurred...
 
Still could be a number of different problems, but likely a carb/fuel issue yet. You may have swapped one problem carb for another, albeit with the same symptoms.

Background: On the MFS8 and 9.8, the idle/slow circuits are very high velocity to maintain good fuel mix at super-lean mixtures (thank the EPA). That means that they are very small, and very succeptible to both varnishing and debris. The varnishing occurs as fuel evaporates out of the carb when it's not running. Over 90% of the time, we are able to clean varnished carbs by soaking in carb dip. That condition is typically due to not running the carb out at the end of the day. The exception to that is if there is oxidation (due to water contamination), exacerbated by ethanol blends -- thank the EPA again, leading to a scrap carb, which cannot be cleaned by ordinary means. So your original carb, if it was not oxidixed, probably could have been successfully cleaned, after complete disassembly and a 4-hour soak in real carb dip such as Tyme.

As for the new carb, assuming that you didn't leave fuel sitting in it for a week (causing a recurrence of varnishing), there is a slight possibility that there is a microscopic bit of debris in it, that did not affect running during the first day. Sometimes that debris is a tiny fragment of metal or rubber/plastic left over from the manufacturing processes. I have personally come across a couple of carbs (from various manufacturers) that have had that sort of problem. In one case, a microscopic bit of metal was loose in the passages, and sometimes caused no problems at all -- yet at other times would restrict the idle passages. The motor passed tank test, the customer was happy, and a month later, started getting idle problems. Took a few disassemble/inspect/reassemble/test cycles to find that one.

I would consider a methodical and thorough/complete disassembly/inspection of the new carb. You will need to pull out the jets and emulsion tube ("main nozzle") and the top cover. You will want the brightest possible shop lighting (or bright outdoor sunshine), and maybe a magnifying glass. Don't forget to reinstall the rubber "cork" in the jet well when you put it back together, or the mixture will be so rich that the motor may not run at all. Also verify float height while you have the bowl off.
 
I have recently purchased a 2012 Merc/Tohatsu 9.9 that won't stay running at idle. Fresh gas tried. I have removed and cleaned the carb once but didn't actually soak the jets for a period. Just a decent carb cleaner spray job and used compressed air in all the ports. Fuel pump does pump what seems like plenty of fuel.I don't seem to have a leak in the fuel line as the bulb stays hard. New plugs installed. The brass cap on the mixture screw was removed. Screw was set at 1/2 turn out. I read on another similar thread about aligning the slit in the main nozzle with the screw. I don't completely understand this instruction. Can someone clear this up for me?

Thanks
 
Completely disassemble carb. Soak all non rubber bits in real carb dip overnight. Blow out all passages with generic carb spray. Set pilot screw at 2 turns out.
 
Specifically what is the "aligning the slit in the main nozzle with the screw" mean? Does this mean that the holes in the main nozzle need to be orientated in a certain way when reassembled? This was stated in another thread as coming from the service manual instructions, which I don't have. I understand rotating the fuel mixture screw back out 2 full turns from all the way in.
 
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