Picture of inside heat exchanger

Looking for a picture of the inside of a closed cooling system heat exchager, showing the raw water pasages and the antifreeze pasages.

all you can see is the raw water passages, when you pull the end caps off. These are a bunch of "little tubes" that run side-to-side. The little tubes run thru the 'fresh side's" tank, where the antifreeze is.

If you do a search on the crusader board, for heat exhanger, I bet you'll find a few pics.

It kinda looks like this. This is an oil cooler, but the design concept is similar.

Jeff

A typical cylindrical shaped Marine Engine heat exchanger is what some refer to as a "Shell and Tube" or "Shell and Tube Bundle" unit.
Here is a generic cut-a-way view!
The port configuration and end caps may be completely different than yours, but the principle is the same.
E/G/h2o around the tube bundle.
Sea water through the tube bundle..... and generally, multiple passes!





Some have a serviceable tube bundle.

Much better photos!

Jeff

fastjeff said:

Much better photos!

Jeff

Click to expand...

Jeff, I can't take any credit....... (shuuuush...... "Google images"... keep it quiet please! )

The only thing not shown real clearly in the pics Rick posted is the typical "sectioning" used in the raw water side. The tubes are separated, usually into three groups, so the raw water actually makes three trips thru the HX before heading out to the exhaust.

Hi folks, here is a shot at my port eng HX showing the 'sectioning'. I think its the original HX for this engine, I am not sure of the year yet but somewhere early 80's. Engine is a RH, 454 model 350 SN 27687F
After looking at the waterboxes I was amazed we did not have any temp problems.



best
34' Hatteras
Oceanside Harbor Ca.
mike

If I remove the end plates will antifreeze (closed system) or raw water drain out?

raw water

I like to remove the end cap on the side that has the zinc installed to remove any particles/pieces of previous zincs. Sometimes they break off near the base and just lie in there. Removing both ends will allow you to look straight through all the holes to see how blocked or clear they are. Jus hold a light at one end and look in from the other. I haven't found it necessary to replace the gaskets, at least not every year.

Erich

Mike&Les said:

Hi folks, here is a shot at my port eng HX showing the 'sectioning'. I think its the original HX for this engine, I am not sure of the year yet but somewhere early 80's. Engine is a RH, 454 model 350 SN 27687F
After looking at the waterboxes I was amazed we did not have any temp problems.

View attachment 1129

best
34' Hatteras
Oceanside Harbor Ca.
mike

Click to expand...

Mike, question, if you don't mind; Why is your Port engine RH rotation?

BTW, you can push a small rod through the H/E tubes to clear the sea water side.

One other thing, if your pencil anodes are breaking off inside of the H/E, you may not be changing them frequently enough. Usually by the time one is able to break off, it is way past it's sacrificial obligation!

I'd expect with a 34' hull, they put 1.88/1.91:1 gears in it.

Mike&Les said:

After looking at the waterboxes I was amazed we did not have any temp problems.

Click to expand...

The HE has near 3x the number of tubes on each pass, than does the U cooler for the oil. I've seen U coolers, having issues with overheat, that had some 15 tubes totally clogged!

RicardoMarine said:

Mike, question, if you don't mind; Why is your Port engine RH rotation?

BTW, you can push a small rod through the H/E tubes to clear the sea water side.

One other thing, if your pencil anodes are breaking off inside of the H/E, you may not be changing them frequently enough. Usually by the time one is able to break off, it is way past it's sacrificial obligation!

Click to expand...

Hi Rick.. et all
I dont have the information yet why the Port eng is RH but after I get done cleaning the transmission I hope to find what gears it uses.
I think Marks response of it using 1.88/1.91:1 gears is probably about right
Some backround, we got this Boat (clean 1962 Hateras Sport fisher repowered around 1980-82 with FWC 454's est 1400hrs) a few years back for a quick weekend stay at the Harbor (slip princess) and local fishing trips. For the most part the boat and systems were in pretty good shape and we had planned to start going thru the engines this year or next when I get off the 6 x 12hr workdays that I have been doing the last 4 years replacing the steam generators at the local Nuc Plant at San Onofre. ( I should start a new thread with details on this engine.. lol).

Good point on the pencil anodes, thanks. Also we I had the Hx cleaned and tested by a local shop 'Advance Radiator' here in San Diego area and the core failed so it looks like I will be looking for another Hx.
Also I am pulling the intake manafold after finding some very sticky intake valves to clean the ports and valve stems which have large deposits of fuel varnish and while I am there I will probably replace the lifters and pushrods, I keep thinking I should pull the heads but I have not found any problems in that area yet, compression was >140 on all cylinders and the oil has been clean and level and both engines run about 175' @ 2800 rpm in ~60' water. We were getting some lifter noise which kinda started this project and I found several loose rocker arms along with the sticky intakes valves (yes we have fiberglass tanks but we do not have the E10 yet).

We hope to get this engine back together in the next few weeks so I can get our 3year harbor boat inspection out of the way and setup for a more in depth tear down next year.

Here are some shots of our boat and the port engine project..
**port eng**

**port eng name plate**

**burning old fuel**


I am impressed with the amount of knowledge that is shared on this board thanks

Mike