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Evinrude Junior carborator

J

jerryl77

New member
I just received an old Evinrude Junior
Cleaned it up and it runs.
How do I set the carborator? The carb part number is:397260
Where can I find an Operators manual?
How do I know what year it was made?
The Model is: J RDCR and it was made in Belgium

HELP HELP

THANKS
JERRY
 
Are you sure you have the number correct

EJR-CDR would be a 1986 Evinrude Junior where CD are the date letters for '86

That being so:

Operators manuals should be available from Marine Engine or direct from Ken Cook at www.outboardbooks.com

Fuel mix is 50:1 (even if there are decals that say 100:1 .. they should have been removed)

Current recommended plug is RJ6C gapped at 0.030"

Your carb I believe has two adjustment needles. The upper one is the slow speed needle and its basic setting is 1½ out from gently seated
The lower one is the high speed needle and its basic setting is 1 turn out.

The full instructions for setting these have been published by Joe Reeves and are as follows

Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle va /lve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, wating for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.​

Before using it it would be wise to change the gear case oil. If the old oil is milky it indicates water ingress and you need to establish the cause and replace the seals.
It might also be sensible to change the water pump impeller or at least be sure it is not over heating

You will find parts lists and diagrams at Shop.Evinrude.com

BTW do not undo the screw in the top of the cover. The recoil starter will fall apart if you do and the spring will escape like a caged tiger!

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Have they change the recommended plug and gap for this? My manual gives one plug is used at higher rpm most of the time (flat head type, fixed gap) and a traditional one with a gap of .040".
 
The currently recommended plug for 1.5 hp models 1968-70 is J6C, 2hp and Junior models 1971 to 1990 is RJ6C, in both cases the recommended gap is now 0.030" . ( No idea why the resistor plug is recommended for the latter but J6C replaces the old J6J)

The surface gapped plugs are not recommended for many models now.
 
vics said:
The currently recommended plug for 1.5 hp models 1968-70 is J6C, 2hp and Junior models 1971 to 1990 is RJ6C, in both cases the recommended gap is now 0.030" . ( No idea why the resistor plug is recommended for the latter but J6C replaces the old J6J)

The surface gapped plugs are not recommended for many models now.
Click to expand...

Are the surfaced gapped ones, the flat top (non gappable) ones? Why have they gotten away from them?
 
Why do you think then, that they changed the gap recommendation? In my manual, they called for the flat top if running at high speeds overall, and using a 'regular' plug if running at lower speeds on the average. The gap of the conventional plug was .040. What would changing that gap to .030 do?
 
If you do a lot of trolling or low speed operation you can open up the gap on the plugs to help with fouling problems. Some plugs are designed to run with a wider gap because of internal construction.
 
daviet said:
If you do a lot of trolling or low speed operation you can open up the gap on the plugs to help with fouling problems. Some plugs are designed to run with a wider gap because of internal construction.
Click to expand...


Interesting. I've got the flathead (gapless) plug in mine and ran into some problems tonight. I was running at idle for about 45 min. and then after drifting for 20 min., the engine refused to start. Luckily I was near my marina and was able to row in and just gave up until tomorrow... it was 9pm. I'll check the plug and see what it looks like. It may be time to heed the above advice.

As far as that flathead plug is concerned, is that gap closer to .040" or .030"?


Thanks.
 
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I've never measured the gap on a surface gap plug, I replace them with the center electrode type plug. I would be willing to bet that if you were running at idle that long with surface gap plugs, they are fouled. Replace them with the center electrode type plugs and i bet the problem will go away.
 
daviet said:
I've never measured the gap on a surface gap plug, I replace them with the center electrode type plug. I would be willing to bet that if you were running at idle that long with surface gap plugs, they are fouled. Replace them with the center electrode type plugs and i bet the problem will go away.
Click to expand...


Thanks. I'll look tomorrow and change to the updated plug mentioned above. One more question... If my engine time is equally split between high speed and idle, which gap serve me best?
 
You may notice no difference between 30 and 40 thou but use which ever proves to be the most satisfactory if there is a difference, or any setting in between.
Start with 30 thou open it up if you have any fouling problems
 
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Thanks so much for your help. I was about to abandon this thread because I felt I hijacked it enough, but I think now I'm running into a carb problem (I may steer this thread back on topic. lol)

Daviet, you were dead on. I checked that plug this morning and it was black as could be. Here's where it gets odd. I bought the above mentioned plug (ac delco since they had no champion) and the engine started. It ran for about 10 minutes before dying and giving me a hard time starting back up. The plug was very hot and ashy gray on the electrode. Unable to start back up, I put the flat top plug in and it started, but relunctantly, and continued to die out - never running more than 45 seconds.

Gas flow to the carb is good and the filter lets gas flow as well, so I think I may have a carb problem now.

I don't know. You guys recommend and steps next?


Thanks again for your patience.
 
Get the correct champion plug, I have never had much success with A/C plugs in a two cycle engine. Those engines are designed to use champion plugs. You kind of proved that by installing a fouled champion and at least it try and start. Get the correct champion plug.
 
I'm surprised that a brand would make such a difference, but I'll do it... there must be something to it.

I'll get my rebuilt kit by Tuesday hopefully and still salvage a couple of nice days.
 
vics said:
...( No idea why the resistor plug is recommended for the latter but J6C replaces the old J6J).
Click to expand...


I don't know what relationship this has, but when I put the A/C Delco plug in (that cross referenced to the proper Champion) it got REALLY hot after running for 5 minutes. Is it possible that the Champion #6JC did the same thing, hence the need for the resistor plug as you say?
 
Is the water pump working correctly, normally a spark plug will not cause an engine to overheat. An incorrect plug can cause piston damage, but I don't think I have ever had an overheat problem from a plug.
 
No, the engine is not overheating, the plug is getting very hot. The plug that got hot was an A/C Delco match to the Champion RJ6C. When I put the Champion flat top plug back in, that plug never got hot.

I was just throwing some information out there because vics mentioned not knowing why Evinrude called for the resistor plug in certain year engines... thought my overheating plug might shed some light on that question.
 
I got the rebuild kit and it came with more o rings and stuff than I knew what to do with.

I changed:

float
needle and seat
high speed adjutment packing

Still won't start. I'll disassemble and look it over again.


Thanks.
 
Ok, problem solved. I finally gave up and brought it to someone and here's what he found... the coil I put in had a cut wire, killing my spark. I removed the coil a couple of times and messed it up once.

He finally got it started and found it running rough and then dying. He found the head gasket blown out because the head was warped. He trued the head and replaced the gasket.

Then, he over looked the carb and noticed that my new needle was not quite a pointy on the tip as he would have like so he replaced it.

Viola! He said it's running great. The spark is jumping a distance of 7/16" and is white which is really good he said.


So... thanks for hanging in there and helping me out.




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