Logo

bf225 cooling water not coming out cooling water indicator

tshug

New member
I have a 2008 BF225 with 206 hours on it. The other day my overheat sensor sounded while running at 4200rpms and the engine automatically slowed to about 1800. Shut the engine of and raised engine to check the water intakes and noticed a small piece of paper float up. Started the engine and it ran fine the rest of the day and the following day as well. Tonight was out for a short ride, started the engine and the cooling water was coming out but after about a 1/2 hour noticed it wasn't coming out. Raised engine and nothing was blocking the water, ran it back to the dock at 1100rpm's so it wouldn't overheat. When I got to the dock I threw it in reverse to slow the boat down and after I tied up noticed the cooling water was now coming out as it always has. I was thinking of replacing the impeller this year when it was winterized, but has anyone else had a similar problem with their engine???
 
Sounds like something has gotten into your water passages. The usual culpret is one or more of the fins from your impellar. Even though you replace the impellar, you still need to get the water passages cleaned out. Follow this procedure to track it down.

1. Pull the water intake screens on the bottom of the lower unit, inspect, and clean. Look for any blockages inside. (It's amazing how often this simple item is overlooked.)

2. Pull off the cover and while the engine is running, thoroughly inspect all water hoses and connections for leaks.

3. Remove the hose to the cooling indicator port and make sure that is clean and free of debris.

4. Pull the t-stat(s) and test in a pot of water on the stove. Your owners manual should tell you what the initial opening temp and full open temps should be. Also, make sure the t-stats open wide enough, per the manual. (For the 225 beginning opening is approx 140F, full open is approx 160F, and open distance is 3 mm.)

4. While the t-stats are removed back flush the water passages using a water hose with as much pressure as you can get. Typically I use a nozzle fully open, tightly wrap a rag around it, seal it into the t-stat opening by hand pressure, and turn the water on full force.

5. There is a water relief port at the bottom of the starboard thermostat housing (usually a recessed hex head bolt.). If you have a water pressure meter and adaptor with a 1/4" BSPT thread, remove the bolt and install the water pressure gauge and take the reading at idle and check against spec's. If it is too low, you likely have an impeller or blockage problem before the port. If it is too high, you likely have a blockage after the port.

6. Hopefully, you will have cleared the blockage. Then drop the lower unit (as shown in the owners manual) and inspect impeller. To be safe, replace the entire water pump. It's not that much more than the impeller kit, and fairly easy to do.

You can download a copy of the owner’s manual free from hondamarine.com.

 
It's unbelieveable where bugs can go, or what a dirt dobber wasp can do over the course of one day. I've even heard of people with dead mice under their cowling in the spring time after a long cold winter. Yeah....a mouse!
 
New member here -- my first post! (Be kind...)

I fully agree with Jettywolf, I used to ream the "pee hole" on my old Johnson 60 HP at the start of each season, and then again halfway through -- due to bugs or stuff that would block the hole.

Then back in June, I bought/traded for my brother's Arima Sea Ranger 19 with a BF130 4-stroke on it. Lots to love about this boat and the awesome smooth, quiet and no oily-smoke Honda that powers it! But...

There is always a "but"......................

My brother told me "Honda outboards are notorious for clogging the p-hole -- from the inside -- so save that small orange piece of trimmer line tied onto the steering wheel as you'll use it often..."

OK, I admit it, I had already trashed that piece of "junk" line... But the point is, he was RIGHT!

I also spoke with 2 Honda dealers who told me the same thing, AND I have also seen the small brown crap that plugs that line from the inside. One of the dealers told me there's a passageway somewhere inside the motor which is "way too small", much smaller than it should be, and that allows crap to collect and plug the pee hole.

I ream mine out before every other trip -- only need to get 6" or so of line up the tube on mine -- and she pees just fine now!

Sure wish I could pee that well.................. (Unless you're over 50, you may not get that...)

Anyway... Good luck!

Old No7
 
I have 742 hours on my 225 and have had no problems whatsoever with clogged water passages. I flush it with fresh water after every use.
 
Every 200 hours.

I put 250 to 300 hours on the motor each year, so that means I change it at least once every year. I run exclusively in saltwater and sometimes I'm in very shallow water where I kick up sand and mud, so that is the reason for the agressive schedule.

Also, I change out the whole water pump since it is not that much more expensive than the impeller kit.

For operating in a less extreme environment, I still recommend you change the impeller annually, especially of you lay up the motor for a signifcant time after the season. The impeller can dry out and become more brittle.

One other thing I do. I have installed surface heat sensors on each manifold so I can constantly monitor my operating temperatures which normally run 160F to 175F. That way, I can monitor when an impeller or thermostat is not operating correctly and prevent a sudden shutdown due to overheating. If you are interested in the procedure send an e-mail to [email protected] and I will send you the procedural write up and pictures.
 
Old No 7,

You're right!

I don't go into much shallows...(where I'm at it's sandy) But about every other trip I have to run a piece of wire up in the indicator and sand particles come out. So yeah, my 225 indicator gets clogged oh so EZ.

I know it's usually at the boat ramp. It's the only place where lots of DEBRIS is floating and sand is in the water from other boats stirring the water up all day long.

Thanks man, I'm gonna try the weed wacker string next time. 6 inches huh?
Roger that!

Thanks for the good idea.
 
I have a 1999 130 (Honda) where the cooling water is also just trickling out, but it is flowing. The manual doesn't specify how much water should be coming out, but just says that if was is coming out, the cooling is working OK. Isn't it supposed to come out in one fairly fast stream and that you can see the line in the water where it's hitting (like I have seen on my older 2 stroke engines I had a while ago)?

Someone mentions they ream it out before every trip, can you explain exactly where this is done since I am new to this? What do you use to ream it out with (I don't know what "small orange piece of trimmer line" is).

The engine has about 350 hours on it, and always been on a trailer until this summer, but I noticed this last year as well.

If I decide to take it to a mechanic, what can I expect to pay for a new impeller and pump?

Thanks
 
Back
Top