Volvo Penta not pumping water

johnsonv4 said:

Question: any curve balls to be concerned about when removing the outdrive?

Thanks

Click to expand...

First, I'll share this with you.
I remove the transmission ONLY for bellows, bearing cross replacement, water neck fitting and/or shift cable replacement...... and/or any re-sealing of the transmission!
I see little need to remove an entire drive UNLESS we are doing hinge pin bushing replacement, Reverse Latch bearing sleeve work, Pivot Tube work, etc.
There is just no need to remove an entire drive, IMO.

If you DO remove an entire drive, I'll caution you when it comes to removing the Main Suspension Fork hinge pins. These pins themselves are very soft compared to carbon steel.

Since these will very likely be somewhat corroded and stubborn, I always heat the aluminum pin bosses on the transom shield before attempting to remove both the keeper bolts, and the hinge pins. (a small Mapp Gas or Propane Gas torch works well)
This expands the aluminum some, and helps break up any corrosion!
You will NOT harm the aluminum with Mapp or Propane!

Like said, the issue is that these pins themselves are soft.
If we drive on them with any tool harder than an Italian bread stick, we risk expanding the pins, and then we have a real mess!

So......, drive on these pins ONLY after heating the bosses......, and with either brass or aluminum ONLY, and of an appropriate diameter tool, and they should come out easily!

Again, most anything that you need to do to the transmission, and/or lower unit, can be done with the Intermediate housing still attached to the transom shield.
Both Transmission and Lower Unit must be removed anyway for replacement of the O-rings!

Just my opinion. Your call!

Hey Ricardo,

Fancy meeting you here :rolleyes:

To the OP, my OEM calls for operating temp of 180 and I rarely seem to come near that. I run closer to 160+. If I get near 200 I shut down and find the problem. That is high, and just to close to being and overheat for my comfort.

If you're in the least bit handy I would change out the raw water cooling related items Rick has mentioned: water neck, gasket, etc. These aren't very expensive parts and it's not a hard job. It will also give you a chance to inspect some high priority items like the bellows and crosses... you don't want to find problems here, in the water.

Has no one really mentioned to check the risers/manifolds temps or even the heat exchanger? Have you pulled the risers to check the passages or pulled an end cap off the H/E?


good luck

Thanks.

I read in the OEM manual that the thermostat does not open fully until 195*f. This is where we run most of the time including our last run of 5 hours.

We took the entire heat exchanger apart and flushed everything as well as replacing all the seals. We replaced the impeller and gasket on the raw water pump.

When we had it running in the lake we opened and cleaned the raw water filter screen and the pump was pumping water like crazy.

So, if our theromstat does not fully open at 195*f how can we run less than that?

We still plan on replacing the the hose fitting etc. after the season next month.

Thanks again.

Just confirmed that the thermostat begins opening at 180*f and is fully open at 198*f.

Thanks.

As mentioned, go by your OEM manual. Clearly it is different than mine, for my engine. I have a different boat than you so you are sure to have different specs.

Thanks.

So, does it make sense that my operating temp be the same as when the thermostat is fully open at 198*f?

It seems high, but it did not go above 200*f during the entire 5 hour run.

Rick, so it looks like I only need to remove the transmission/upper unit of out drive to replace the parts your recommending?

Muffs wouldn't draw enough water on my VOLVO 275 outdrive so I bought a 30 gallon tote at Lowes and lowered the outdrive into it, works great,
around $12 ,the kind used to store things. Can run until the water all heats up, or just keep adding some from the hose as you go.
Thanks,
Dale

2007 bryant 214 5.0 volvo pinta boat motor not getting water to motor at all . Replace perpaller and the housing and thermostat still overheats.

What I'd the situation you had to fix. Mine doing the same

Ayuh,..... Starting a new thread of yer own, insteada hy-jackin' this antique 13 year old thread, 2 pages long, Might get you an answer to yer problem,.....