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still overheating @ 3000 rpm +/ waterpump cavitating? sucking exhaust gas?

Kevin Conley

New member
water out of supply hose (into bucket) from inner transom looks good up to 3000rpm, after that flow lessens, and is "airated", a mechanic friend said it's back pressure from exhaust getting by the waterpump plate and can be fixed by sealing the plate w/ silicone. Transom is completly under water. '87 Merc. 260, alpha 1 o/d. Tried all the usual stuff - new waterpump, thermostat, clear manifolds & riser, new Y pipe w/ flappers. ( needed due to leak at bottom ) I've replaced lots of o/d water pumps but never had a problem like this before. Does this explanation sound reasonable? has anyone else experienced symptoms like this?
 
The transom hose kinked when it enters the transom, or a clog on the outside of the fitting that goes thru the transom, or tube not insreted correctly from the water pump to the upper tube.

You didn't miss a o-ring, or tore the o-ring, i use a dab of silicone.

You replaced the housing ? if not could it be worn where the impeller touch's the inside, not perfectly smooth. I always change the housing just not worth the time and money, when i help my friends i tell them buy the housing or i ain't coming over.

See i have a stringer, and when i do mine i always put in a new housing also.

That exhaust bull don't make sense to me.
 
New w/p base impeller & housing, new outer transom hose - not kinked - can run all day w/ fully loaded boat at < 3000rpm - if kinked or clogged that wouldn't be possible. Didn't miss or tear an o ring - all o rings assembled w/ a little greese. Like I said, I've done lots of these and never had airated water comming straight in from the transom - air has to be comming from somewhere - seems like no other logical answer but from exhaust. As stated transom plate is completely submerged.
 
Don't want to bother you anymore, may i ask one more question ?

You use a oem outer transom hose ? See the aftermarket ones come a little to long ?

But what the f--k do i know i'm a rank amature i'm not even house broke yet and i'm still trying to figure out what a screwdriver does.

Good luck your gonna need it.
 
All sierra parts, have never had a problem w/ sierra parts as yet. Guess there is always a first time. Pulling boat out tonight to take a look, will pull & split drive, probably replace the top water pocket housing as a "just in case". will look at outer supply hose for signs of kinking, & take w/p housing off to inspect internals, inspect copper tube ect. What else is there to look at? Gotta take care of the airating problem before looking at downline restriction type problems ( which have already been looked at - I kind of started the process backwards because I don't own a trailer and the boat lives in a slip, I was trying once again to find an easy way out without pulling boat and drive). My bad.
 
I split the drive again last night to inspect, didn't see anything abnormal until I started reassembly. Just as a sanity check, I held my finger on the impeller as I turned the shaft - guess what I found - yep you guessed it - the brand new impeller just installed spun it's hub! Now before anyone starts to berate me for not installing properly, yes I greesed the cup, no I didn't overtighten the nuts, yes I turned the shaft as I pushed down on the housing, ect. ect. ect. I guess I should have taken a clue from my previous post "I never had a problem with Sierra parts before, I guess there's always a first time". So this is a first for me. I'll let you all know what happens next.
 
Brass hub, popped right out with little effort, nice bright polish on outer surface. Haven't had a chance to get back to it yet, wife's jeep's electric fan exploded - puncturing radiator, so priorities have shifted for the time being. Should have time to work on boat this weekend.
 
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