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honda bf130 2004 long beep after run about 100 yrds

R

rmaharrey

Member
Please help
I am getting a long beep from dash after I run my boat 100 or so yards
I can then turn of motor start back up and the same thing happens long beep motor comes to idle
I have checked fuel and water seperator
changed foot oil
checked t stat
checked fuses on motor
does anyone have any other sugestions
Thanks Randy
 
Are you seeing coolant water out of the 'telltale'? I'm guessing you are hearing an overheat warning. Is the impeller all set?
 
What are your warning lights doing at the time? Is the red light (overheat) on? Is the green light (oil pressure) on? Does your check engine light come on? What about your charge light?

If the beep is continuous as I think you are saying and ....

If the overheat light and the oil pressure lights are not on, you have an oil pressure issue.

or

If you have a red light on and the oil pressure light is one, you have an overheat.

Mike

Either condition will cut down your rpms if you are underway.
 
Thanks for reply

I do have water from telltail
I put new impeller on one year ago


the green light is on i think the sun was bright yesterday so i will check it again today
i only have a red and green light on key switch
yes the beep is continuous
i talked to local marine and he thinks there is water in gas but i checked that and found no water in fuel could there be a problem with sensor that is on the fuel seperator i can't find a sensor to check it
i did change the starting battery last week and he said mayby a altinator issue or ground issue ??
thank much any more thoughts?

Randy
 
There is no water in fuel sensor on the 130.

A continuous (solid) alert only indicates an overheat or an oil problem.

There may be an electrical issue that is causing a false alert. But check your overheat light for sure. Even though you have a telltail stream, the flow could
be blocked further up the flow path. If it is an overheat, check your thermostat. It may be clogged with debris or may not be opening.


To check your lights to make sure they work. Watch them when you turn your key switch to on. They should come on for two seconds. The red and green should then go out.

There are two other lights which you probably do not have....a check engine light and a charge light (both just like in your car). It was probably not installed
with your motor (they should have been installed). The check engine light is the only way to check to codes on the 130. It can be added.

Mike
 
Thanks hondadude

I took the thermostat out saturday and put it in viniger to clean and checked it in boiling water after clean I then left the thermostat out and ran the the motor and the same thing happened long beep after about 20 seconds

I then replace the thermostat and ran motor and same thing long beep

The thermostat seems good it opened up

I will say this I have only had the motor one year and when I got the motor I changed the foot greese and the impeller for water pump when I got into the pump housing I noticed it had some wear on the housing and probably should have changed the housing also but didn't because I would have had to wate on parts I seemed to have had more pressure before I changed the impeller than after the new one was in (the pee streem is now comming out in a line but not as hard as it was) but have ran the motor every week sence for one year and no problems

However the water temp is 92 but the house water is not hot when i run it at home and still long beep

One more thing when I changed the foot oil Saturday a little water ran out of the hole first (about 2 oz or so) and then the oil came out

could this mean the housing is leaking water or pressure to water pump ?? and the motor is overheating ?

thanks for everything any thoughts?

hard for me to type and spell I will call if this will help or allowed on site leave # or I will leave # but will post what we find if called so all will know thanks again Randy
 
You still have not said what your lights are doing. Is the green light on when the alarm is sounding? Is the red light on when the alarm is sounding?

Also, is the long beep a steady beep or is it a beep beep beep? Just want to be sure we are talking the same type of beep.

Mike
 
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the beep is a long steady beep not beep beep

I will have to check lights tomorrow after work to see if red or green is on I will get back and thanks for help

Randy
 
went out today and started up motor

when you turn on key the green light comes on and stays on all the time even after the alarm goes off (long steady beep)

the red light never came on at all never

the green light comes on on the first click with key even before you start motor

it only took about 20-30 seconds for alarm to sound
 
As you turn the key to on, the green and red lights both should come on for two seconds, then go out . Is that happening?

If the green light is not going out (before you start the engine), like I think you are saying, you may have an issue with the oil pressure
switch. The red light not coming on at all makes me wonder.

Check the wire going to the oil pressure switch.. Make sure it is connected to the oil pressure switch. It is the yellow/red wire. The
oil pressure switch is located on the starboard side of the engine, at the top just to the right of the top fuel injector and just above the
top intake.

If you have an ohm meter, remove the wire and check the resistance of the switch from the contact on the switch to ground. It should
have zero resistance.

We may be going down the wrong path, but it is the only thing that I am seeing so far that is not functioning the way it should.

I keep going back to only oil or overheat alarms make the alarm to sound as a steady alert.

Since the red light never comes on (it should for two seconds when you turn the key switch to on) and the oil light is not going out,
there could be something going on in the alert system or ecm.


Let me know what you find on my questions...

Mike
 
no the red light never comes on at all

the green light stays on all the time in all positions on the key (first position and runing position ) except when key is off it goes off

I checked the wire going to pressure switch yesterday and it was connected I took the switch out and put it back in but have not checked with ohm (not sure how) I have ohm meter I will try what you said and see I will get back soon

Thank you so much for the help Randy

just got in and checked with ohm meter and it was zero resistance
 
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The measurement is what is supposed to be.

I am not sure what to tell you to do next. The lights are not doing what they are supposed to at start up. This means, the light module could be defective (and not related to
your initial problem)....the wiring in the harness or cabling could be defective (which could cause both problems)....the ECM itself could be defective

You have no Mil or Charge light installed, so you can not easily check for codes.
You may only have trouble with the light panel itself (although, I suspect more).

If you have a dealer near you, they could connect a mil/charge light and connect a test harness and keyswitch panel to quickly eliminate a light panel issue and also see if there is
some other issue that is occurring with the ECM.

If you had a manual and knowledge of circuits, you might be able to track it down.

I am not sure how much more we can easily check on line like this.

Maybe someone else has some fresh thoughts.

Mike
 
Thanks hondadude for your help

I talked with a marine all island marine and they think it may be a water pump issue
yes the water pump is pumping but they think there is not enough pressure to open up two pressure valves (he did not say where they are)but may not be letting enough water to cool the motor so I have ordered new water pump housing and kit to replace new thermostat
like I said earlier this week the water pump pumped more water before I change it than after the new one was put in a year ago and housing was not too good

could the water pump be just getting weak and not pumping enough water??

Thanks again and I will let you know what I find out Randy
 
My additional thoughts in addition to Mike's...

You want to try to eliminate all else before replacing the ECM.

The green oil pressure light staying on and the red overheat light not coming on at all indicates a possible short in the wiring harness between the ECM and console (or a bad ECM.) Pull the overheat light and check for continuity across the bulb element to make sure it is working. In the process check all the connections to the console for cleanliness and tightness. Both the overheat light and the oil should come on for two seconds or so when you turn the switch on, then go off.

Not sure where the ground wire to the ECM is located on that engine, but I would certainly confirm that the ECM is properly grounded.

Also, I would check all the electrical connections for corrosion and make sure they have good contact - especially the wires from the console to the ECM. WD-40 works well for cleaning the plugs and connectors.

Otherwise, as Mike suggested, get it to a dealer to run complete diagnostics.
 
Thanks for advice to all

OK I went out and took the key switch out of dash and found nothing out of place or loose

howerver when I was checking the lights to see if they work I turned the key to the first position and after 2 seconds the green light went out as it should but when I start the motor the green light comes on and stays on

The red light still never comes on at all may be out not sure
 
Green light is supposed to come on once the engine s running. It indicates that you have good oil pressure once the engine is running.

Did you check the red light for continuity? It may be just burned out.

So now we are back to either an overheat problem, a sensor problem, or an ECM problem.

Mike??? You know these engines far better than I do.
 
what is the best way to check red light to see if it is burned out

I put a test light in the plug and turned on switch and only one pin has power (maybe this is right and only one is hot )dont know

I have not run motor to see if alarm comes on today

I am not sure I told it right when Yesterday and day before I said the green light was not going out after 2 seconds it might have been I might not have give it time before I started the motor

Thanks all Randy
 
Testing the red overheat light - Only one pin should have power. Put your volt meter across the socket pins, then turn on the switch. You should get 12 volts for about 2-3 seconds, then none. Then test continuity across the bulb terminals. You should get good continuity. If not, the bulb is burned out. From what you have described so far, it sounds like the bulb is probably burned out, but test it.

Okay - just to assure yourself about the oil light. Turn on the key, you should hear two beeps and the green oil light and the red overheat light should come on for about 2 - 3 seconds, then both should go out. Start the engine. The green light should come on and stay on, indicating you have good oil pressure. The red overheat light should stay off, unless you have an overheat problem. Of course, it the light is burned out, you will not see the red light go on, but the buzzer will sound once the overheat situation is detected. Keep your voltmeter attached to the bulb socket and run the engine until the buzzer sounds. Check your voltmeter. If you have power on the bulb socket, then the ECM is telling you it thinks you have an overheat problem.
 
The above ways to check the light is easiest to see it the light is good. If you do not get any voltage, then further electrical checking is required.

What the marina said about the pressure not being enough to open two pressure valves could be right. It also could be that one or both of the pressure valves are stuck open and not allowing enough pressure to be built up in the engine to provide sufficient cooling.

There is a relief valve in the water passage just below the thermostat. It is covered by a long narrow cover that is held on with about 12 bolts.

There is also an oil/water jacket valve. It is located on the starboard side...I think it is partially covered by the vapor separator.

Putting in a new complete water pump will not hurt, but you are still not sure it is an overheat....although everything points that way.

Mike
 
I checked the light and the best I can tell it is a bad bulb

I should get the new pump today or tomorrow and we can rule out the pump factor then

I will install a new light for the red light

I ordered a new seal pack for the lower unit; anyone got suggestions on best ways to change seals or tricks to do it better I have never done the seals before (i had about 2-3 oz of water in lower unit ) I did change a prop seal on a evenrude 200 a few years ago they are sending me the shift seal prop seal and shaft seal.

any tricks on water pump ?

Thanks Randy
 
Good news on the bulb.

The water pump is pretty straightforward, however, if you are going to try to change the seals, I highly recommend getting a shop manual.

If you try to take the prop shaft holder out before you pull the shift shaft (the shift shaft holder is plastic and sometimes will not come out without damaging it), a couple of ball bearings will fall behind your forward gear.

Just follow the manual.

Mike
 
Thanks hondadude

so I need to remove the shift shaft first and then the prop shaft ?

My uncle has change these on a mercury is it about the same ? he will help me if needed.

I change the seal on a evenrude and never pulled the prop shaft is this possible?

I have never done the shift shaft or the other one

thanks Randy
 
got the new pump in today and still no good news
put on new water pump and housing
changed out seals under pump and put new thermostat in new fuel filter and long beep after started motor about 20 - 30 seconds.

could there be restricted water flow in motor somewhere the water was not hot around foot but very warm after abut two tries about 60 seconds?

could the oil filter be stopped up ?? or would the green light come on ?

red light still out

thanks for help Randy
 
If the green light is on, it denotes you have oil pressure. If the green light is out, you have either too high oil pressure or too low oil pressure (like not enough oil). It could be a clogged oil filter. That would be the simplest.

You have said that the oil light stays on all the time. Repeating what others have said...when you turn the key switch to on, you will get two beeps and the green light and the red light will come on for two seconds, then go out. Once the engine starts, the green light should come on.

If you still think it is overheating, feel the engine at the thermostat or temperature sensor. The thermostat opens at about 180 deg F., so it will feel hot, but you should be able to hold your hand on the engine for a couple of seconds or so. If you can not, then it is overheating.

We need to know what the lights are doing and if they are working properly (going off after two seconds, etc)

Mike
 
thanks for all the help guys

My green light is working properly it comes on for 2 seconds and then goes out and when the motor starts it stays on.

my red light is burned out

when the key is turned it beeps 2 short beeps.


after 20-30 seconds the long beep starts and motor comes to sputter and idle.

any more thoughts ? maybe bad switch or sencor (how do you check these)
randy
 
You could have a faulty temperature sensor (aka ECT ..engine coolant temperature).

The resistance between the two terminals on the ECT vary by temperature.
20 deg C...about 4000 ohms 40 deg C ...about 2000 ohms 60 deg C ...about 900 ohms 80 deg C....about 500 ohms 100 deg C is about 300 ohms The resistance continues to go down as the temperature goes up.

We also do not have the whole story since you do not have a check engine light installed. You may have some codes caused by other things. The only way to check is with a check engine light. You could substitute a test light, but explaining connections will start getting complicated.

If you are going to continue to try to fix this yourself, you really need the service manual . I hope you got it.

Mike
 
Thanks Hondadude,

Is the check engine light a hard thing to install myself and where do I get one?

The marine out of New york said there is a thing I can plug in the back at the motor and get a series of beeps to get codes and he will send the code chart with it but I can not get him to find it or call back ( on vacation )and will call back next week.

The thing I have in Birmingham Al. is the closest marine that works on hondas is 1 hr away and they want me to leave it 2 weeks to fix. They do not seem very sharp any way and do not seem to care if they work on it or not.

Thanks for the help and let me know what you think on check engine light . Randy
 
does anyone know if I can bypass the sensor switches one at a time to find bad switch

is the temp switch the one on the head next to thermostat

thanks randy
 
Randy,

Yes that is the temp switch... I would replace it.. relatively cheap too.. have had a few of these switches go like that

cheers

Garry
 
I went out and started the motor again and when the long beep started I took the wire off the temp switch and the beep stoped for a few seconds and then started the beep beep beep beep not a long beep a series of short beeps ?

any thoughts ?

I will change the switch next week

I put my hand on the head next to the switch and thermostat and it was not hot at all
thanks Randy
 
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