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sears/ted williams 5hp motor, advice on staring first time in a while

mwe-maxxowner

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I have a sears and roebuck/ted williams 5hp clutch shift motor I recently aquired. I was told it ran well last tme it was messed with, but it has not been cranked in a while. The chassis number, I think it was called, is 217-59310, and the serial number is 150439. (maybe 150939, can't read my scribble lol, can double-check tomorrow)

First of all, I have zero experience with marine engines, so assume I know nothig. What steps do I need to take to start trying to get this thing fired up and see how/if it runs?

I understand I need t run it in a bucket of water when testing it, and that I probably need to drain the shaft oil, or whatever it's called, and fill it with some 80 or 90 w marine oil. How do I drain this oil, and how do I know if it's full.

Anything else in particular I should try, maybe a new sparkplug? Also how to use the knobs on it? I know it takes 2-stroke gas, it has the ratio and type of marine 2-stroke oil listed on a sticker bythe gas cap.

Is this a good engine, maybe worth putting some time and money into? Right now I have zero dollars in it. I just want something to scoot my 12ft johnboat around with.

My biggest worry is that the carb is stopped up. I see a little surface rust inside the gas tank. Is this something maybe a lawnmower repairman can work with if it goes beyond my abiliies?

Thanks in advance for the help.
 
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The best way to drain and refill the oil is to first remove the drain and fill plugs and let it all run out, then when refilling, place your marine oil tube in the lower hole (seems to run against common sense but it works better this way) and squeeze enough in until it starts to run out the top hole. Then, immediately install the top plug, remove your marine oil tube and install the bottom plug.

At the very least, a new sparkplug would be helpful, and I would remove the carburetor float bowl to check for any gas that may have gummed up in there over the years. Pour out whatever gas is in the float bowl, reinstall the bowl, and put some fresh gas in the tank. These two things are the very minimum things you should start with - you may eventually need to do more, like check for spark and replace all the old rubber fuel hoses..

Plenty of people have criticized these engines, but I like them. They're lightweight, easy to work on, durable (they use standard bearings and seals, and have a decent sized connecting rod and crankshaft), reliable when tuned up properly, and very economical on fuel (once cylinder = less friction than a similarly sized 2 cylinder Johnnyrude engine).

There is a fuel filter in the bottom of the fuel tank, this should catch any rust which may be in the tank. I would not recommend putting any chemicals in the tank to attack rust, because they will destroy whatever galvanizing is on the inside surface of the tank. Best to remove the tank from the engine (should be 4 bolts under the tank that you have to take out), and flush it out with fresh gas or carburetor cleaner until whatever you pour out is clean with no rust bits or dirt.
 
I've never really fooled with taking a carb apart before, any pointers to removing the carb and float bowl? Does anyone know where I can find the proper spark plug for it? Should I try to get another fuel filter?

Thanks so much for the help! I don't wanna paddle anymore! :D
 
The correct spark plug is a Champion RJ12YC. Sears sells them, if you order through PartsDirect on their website.

Pages 6 through 15 of the Tecumseh 2 cycle engine manual (see attached link) deal with carbs, and there's a separate section there about outboard carbs, the same type that is on the engine you are working on. It is probably the best reference available.

http://www.smallenginesuppliers.com...umseh_2-Cycle_Engines_Service_Information.pdf

Re: the fuel filter, there is a filter in the bottom of the tank, where the hose fitting attaches to the tank. I still prefer to have an additional filter, though - it would not hurt to put one in the line between the tank and the carb.
 
If you have to clean the tank remover outlet fiting and it should have a screen on the end. Then fill the tank 1/4 full with kerosen and put in a hand full of nuts and bolt. Now the fun part you shake the tank for about 15mins then pour it out and put is some more kerosen and do it again pour it all out take out all then nuts and bolts take a good look in side if it looks clean pour some more kerosen and rise out till it comes out clean then put it all back togather. O yes take a good look at the screen on the pickup tube and make sure it is good and clean. The carb is real easy to take apart and clean. Just get a can of spray carb clean and spray everything out and blow everything out and put back togather. O yes before you take the carb apart screw the low speen needel and the high speed needel in till they just seat and count the turns for both. That way when you put back togather you can seat boat and back out to were they were before.
That should keep you busy for awhile
Mike aka pathfinderz1
 
If there is no rust in the tank, I would not advise adding nuts and bolts to the tank, and shaking it. These objects will destroy the galvanized coating on the inside of the tank, and then the tank will get rusty in a heartbeat. Washing with kerosene is okay, I just would not place nuts and bolts in the tank.
 
I have just been reading over the responses, what is the correct spark plug for my Sears/ted williams 4 horse 2 cycle aircooled engine? I think i have a bad plug
 
I have a sears and roebuck/ted williams 5hp clutch shift motor I recently aquired. I was told it ran well last tme it was messed with, but it has not been cranked in a while. The chassis number, I think it was called, is 217-59310, and the serial number is 150439. (maybe 150939, can't read my scribble lol, can double-check tomorrow)

First of all, I have zero experience with marine engines, so assume I know nothig. What steps do I need to take to start trying to get this thing fired up and see how/if it runs?

I understand I need t run it in a bucket of water when testing it, and that I probably need to drain the shaft oil, or whatever it's called, and fill it with some 80 or 90 w marine oil. How do I drain this oil, and how do I know if it's full.

Anything else in particular I should try, maybe a new sparkplug? Also how to use the knobs on it? I know it takes 2-stroke gas, it has the ratio and type of marine 2-stroke oil listed on a sticker bythe gas cap.

Is this a good engine, maybe worth putting some time and money into? Right now I have zero dollars in it. I just want something to scoot my 12ft johnboat around with.

My biggest worry is that the carb is stopped up. I see a little surface rust inside the gas tank. Is this something maybe a lawnmower repairman can work with if it goes beyond my abiliies?

Thanks in advance for the help.

lol my ted williams was the first motor that i have ever tinkered with. intense rust in the gas tank, gummed up, clogged up carb, the whole nine yards. I got mine running today after about 3 months of messing with it. The best advice i can give you is just to be patient with it. also that rust in the gas tank comes out in bulk with a few changes of fresh gas, just let the gas sit in there for about 4 hours and empty everything out, repeat.
as for the carb, you cant mess it up too much, i took mine apart and put it back together pretty easily with no fuss.
 
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