Honda 130 HP 2000 Model

Went offshore a couple weeks ago and after shutting down engine and it wouldn't restart when hot. Had to cool down to start. Took to shop and mechanic tested and tapped on main relay and it started. Bought new main relay and now it will crank but not start. Thought it was a defective new relay so sent back and second new one is same. Will crank but not start. Can put old one in and it will run. Need help if anyone has had a simular problem.

Double check to be sure that you ordered the correct main relay. The ones for the 135/150 and 200/225 look very much the same. The main relay is a black and retangular shaped and sits at the front of the engine. (Just want to be sure that we are referring to the same thing) If you have a BF130, it should be
38580-ZW5-004.

The main relay on the 130's have had some issues in the past.

If the new one is the correct relay assembly, then check all pins in the connectors to be sure they are clean and not pushed in.

Mike

Thanks Hondadude. The relay that I have received is 38580-ZW5-014, not 004 like the original. I was told 014 replaces 004, is this true?

I checked all the pins and all the connections seem fine.

I did find a few other things out.

1. Fuel pump is not running. Spark plugs are sparking.
2. Grounding out the lg/r wire from the harness causes the fuel pump to run. Engine will crank with this wire grounded.
3. Reseated connections to ECU and checked for continuity. All ok.
4. Checked grounds on ECU. All ok.
5. Did the paperclip test on the ECU. No codes, only solid red light.

Any suggestions?

Can this problem be caused by the ECU even though I am getting fire and the ECU is checking for codes?

Is there a way to check/test the ECU? I do not want to purchase one if this is not the problem.

Thanks,
Brandon

Yes it is kind of true. The 014 has been superceded two times to 06380-ZW5-303 (which is a kit that contains the 014) and now to 06380-ZW5-000. I am not sure what is all included with this.

The 014 should be ok.

Did you not say that when you put in the old module that the motor will run?

Also, when you power up the fuel pump and crank the engine, will the engine run? You can power up the pump directly with 12v and ground at the connector just above the fuel pump. Just disconnect the pump from the rest of the motor and connect the power. That way you do not have to tap into the ECU circuit and maybe ground the wrong lead. I would only do this for a test.

If you are getting all the correct voltages (power to the ECU, cranking capability, and you can get the fuel pump to run), all the functions of the main power relay assembly are working or bypassed ( if you ground the lg/r lead).

That ground normally comes from the ECU, as you have probably determined, since you asked about how to test it.

There is no test to my knowledge. Dealers generally have access to test ECU's for that reason. They can get them on loan from Honda.

There is a post several months back, where I worked with a gentleman in England (with a BF115 - same as BF130) who had a friend who helped him trace things out. We went into nausiating detail on the whole relay module and ECU. It turned out to be the ECU. http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?t=378831&highlight=bf115


If you follow the trees in the manual, you basically eliminate everything else, and the result is a bad ECU.

You may want to check all the grounds to the ECU itself. I think there are two or three of them. It is a long shot, but if one of those grounds is bad, it may not be passed to the fuel pump relay.

Check for good connections and any corrosion.

Mike

Thanks for the reply.

Yes, I can put the old relay on the motor will run. But the relay sticks and can let the fuel pump continue running after shutdown.

Yes the engine powers up when I power up the fuel pump externally with a 12v.

I have checked the grounds on the ecu and all are fine.

I used the previous thread that you are referring me to troubleshoot to this point. Great stuff, I have actually been referring to many of your previous post.

The only thing I have not done is check for the correct voltage. Is there a specific range that I have to be in? I wonder if this would have anything to do with my tilt/trim quiting intermitantly when I am at 4000 rpm? When I slow down to 1000 - 1500 rpm then it works again. This has only happened a few times recently before I changed the relay.... Don't know if these issues are related, I'm just throwing everything out there.

What is this troubleshooting tree in a manual?

Thanks again,
Brandon

The troubleshooting tree is just a flow chart type of thing to step through to find various troubles. It starts around p 26 in my manual.

As far as voltage, if the motor is running, it should be some where between 12 and 14 volts. Make sure that the alternator is charging.

Double check your fuses for corrosion and good connections. Also, check the power (+12v) connection on the starter solinoid. This is where your trim gets its power. It also has its own ground, I think is located under the fuses a little to the left.

It does not make sense for the trim to not work at a certain rpm unless the vibration is affecting a connection or something is going on with the battery and/or charging system.

So check your battery to be sure it is holding 12v or more under load.

In case you have not checked them, some of the ECM grounds connect at the lower front of the block, port side.

Do the warning lights (charge light and pgm) come on for two seconds then go out? Charge light should stay on until the engine starts.

If all connections are ok, no codes, etc, it could very well be the ECM. I wouldn't give up too soon though.

Mike

I have checked the following:

1. Battery has good voltage through the solinoid.
2. No corrosion, good continuity through all fuses.
3. Trim is not a big concern if does not effect the issue. It has only done this a couple times since I have owned the boat.
4. All ECM grounds check out fine.
5. Both charge light and pgm light come on for 2 seconds and charge light stays light.

The only thing I do see is the oil pressure light will blink off once ever 5 seconds while trying to crank. ? I thought this could be normal.

Any more suggestions? If I don't solve my problem in the morning then I might take it to a mechanic who can swap the ECM out on another bf130 engine. Your advise has been great but I think everything I am trying points to the ECM.

Thanks,
Brandon

It appears that the ECM is being switched on by the main relay to operate the beeps and the lights. Therefore, your main relay appears to be working and power is getting to the ECM.

I agree with you, that the ECM is the most likely problem at this point.

Mike

Replaced the ECM and it starts and runs great. Thanks for all you help. This is a great site to go to for discussion.

Glad you are up and running. Thanks for the feedback.

Mike