7.4 water pump suggestions

My port engine has a squealing noise, at first I thought it was the belt. After inspection it appears to be the water pump. My question who makes the best water pump.

Crusader OE is around $155, versus Sierra at around $130. Not a big difference in price, which pump is better? Any other suggestions are appreciated.

The engines are '89 7.4 350hp. just about everything is still original and the engines have 877 hours.

Thanks.

The last time I asked this question I found out some amazing info price wiae .. First are you talking engine water pump or raw water cooling pump. The Sherwood E-35 is about $250 and the Jabsco about $460. If your bearings are bad but your pump housing (RAW WATER) is good, you can go the rebuild route to save a few bucks or do both anf have a spare

I'm no help. Both my coolant pumps appear to be original, which means 1976. Sure the noise is not alternator? That, I know about!

Thanks for the replies, I was asking about the engine water pump. According to my manual, it appears to have a rubber type impeller. My plan is replacing it with a new one and will most likely buy the Crusader OEM pump and rebuild the old one as an extra.

I am still confused....are you referring to the pump that circulates antifreeze or the pump that brings in cool water from the water the boat is floating in and circulates THAT once thru the cooling system?

IF you are referring to the pump that brings in water from the water the boat is floating in...by all means, change the rubber impeller ( at least every 2 years) or as you mentioned , buy a new pump, install it properly and then rebuild the old one in a nice cool area, air conditioned, with a steel guitar playing in the background and a tall one next to the needle nose pliers!

Additionally, note the direction of the rubber vanes on the old impeller and replace the new one in the same direction. Check this site for the minor or major rebuild kit...IF WE ARE TALKING ABOUT THE SAME THINGS

Price wise I think you're referring to the fresh water coolant pump on the front of the engine. That's just like a waterpump on V8 car engine. But, these almost never go bad or at least it's pretty rare.

You have the same year/engines as me with about the same hours.

Bob

I used the airtex pumps, from the autoparts store, when I overhauled our engines. At the time, their marine version used what I'd call a cast impeller; turns out it pumps coolant irregardless of the direction the crank is turning it.

Going on memory, they also used a stainless plate behind the impeller.

BTW, these will have metal impellers. The raw water pumps use the rubber types.

I may have been wrong about the rubber impeller, I will check my two Crusader manuals tonight. I am referring the the engine water pump, this can be referred to as the fresh water cooling pump. I think it will be easier to buy the OEM pump, I do not want to have to worry about hoses not fitting.

Both engines run a steady 160, so all is well. But I know the fresh water pump is going, so better to replace it before any over heating issues.


The raw water pumps are fine, I have spare impellers for these if the need arises.
When I finish with the water pump, I can then address the exhaust manifolds. A bigger project. It will be good to replace the log style to center riser that will allow a bit more room when climbing around the engines.

Thanks to all for the answers, sorry for the confusion.

The pump on the front of the engine block is a "Circulating" pump.
The rubber impeller pump is your raw water or sea water pump (whether belt driven, or crankshaft mount......, or in an out drive, for example).

The engine circulating pump is usually avaiable in three versions for marine:

• On a Raw or Sea Water cooled engine, the pump shaft "ceramic" seal is designed to work with the Non-Lubrication qualities of Sea Water. The rear cover is SS. The impeller is usually bronze.
• If on a Closed Cooling system, the automotive pump works just fine due to the E/G..., as long as the length is correct.
• The third type is one that is capable of reverse rotation for either an open system, or a Closed Cooling system.

With that in mind, which pump are you asking about?????

I am ready to give up. 20 years in automotive repair publishing apparently has someone confused here, maybe me ) When I refer to engine water pump, obviously it is the pump attached to the front of the block moving coolant through the engine. The engine has a supplemental cooling mechanism in the raw water cooling system.

I know the raw water system, being the Sherwood pump and I was not referring to this since I cleaned this out already with acid.

Terminology does get confusing and I have to apologize. Forget my question about OEM versus aftermarket. 90% of the time I will go with OEM. If curious about work history, I worked for the oldest publisher "Chek-Chart (Motors) and Mitchell Repair. The best two in the business.

I say this because from the responses, some may think I am crazy... Sorry for the confusion.

Bulletine, don't feel silly, when we step into the Marine world, much of the terminology changes.
A bell housing becomes a "flywheel cover", we have two pumps (Circ and Sea Water), Engine bay electrical components become "Ignition Source" protected, and a few others.

You have not mentioned whether your engine are raw water cooled, or equipped with a Closed Cooling system!
As mentioned, if Closed System, the short auto version works, and saves you some money.

However, here's a true marine version for $76.
Brand New Marine Circulating Water Pump for GM Chevy Big Blocks
Fits 6.9L (427 cid) and 7.4L (454 cid).
Stainless steel shaft and non-corrosive, bi-directional impeller.
Replaces: Mercruiser 850454A 1, 811573. OMC 3855991 Volvo 3855991-0.
Also has applications for Marine Power, Indmar, Crusader and other manufacturers' engines.
This also offers the port for a Cabin Heater or WH coolant return.

http://www.shop.tungstenmarine.com/Marine-Circulating-Water-Pump-for-GM-Chevy-Big-Blocks-TM3574.htm;jsessionid=CB9112B371F054D2A627E75E6AF200FA.qscstrfrnt04

Thanks Rick, it looks the same as mine: #30109 and half the price.