Logo

3.3 Mariner outboard starting problem

zeiler

New member
I'm on an island in Malaysia on a circumnavigation and need advice re a pesky starting problem for my trusty little dinghy outboard.

It had not been used for almost a year but I did spray oil into the cylinders before leaving our sailboat.

When we returned it started fine even on old but clean gas and ran fine for several weeks then suddenly it stopped. It will kick over once or twice but then refuses to run. Sometimes or most of the time it does not even kick.

I cleaned the plug and checked for spark (it sparks), cleaned the carb, flushed gasoline through the opened jet, cleaned the float seat and checked the float. All seemed clean before I did this. I even replaced the seal between the carb and the block as it had a kink in it. All to no avail. The plug stays dry. I also replaced the old gas with new gas and flushed the lines.

I then checked the wiring and the 'connectors' in the wire to the kill switch and the wire to the coil seem corroded. When I tried to separate what I thought was a connector, although I could not see a reason for a connector I found it to be something unidentifiable and wonder if it is some kind of resistor. In any case I argued that with the wire to the kill switch not connected it should still start. And it does still kick. The other wire's 'connector also looks very iffy. What is their purpose and can they be bypassed?

Can you help.
 
Thanks Ranger Rick for your input. I have cleaned the float chamber (was clean) and carefully wiped the seat of the valve regulating the valve although it also looked clean. All to no avail.

Suspect low compression causing low suction hence no fuel in line with a previous commenter's experience with a scored piston.

Rain has prevented me today from trying the old oil trick to temporarily improve compression but will do so tomorrow.

No compression gauge on the island.

Tx again

Jim
 
Hi all again

I have now done the following: Oil in the spark plug hole gave only a slight improvement in the 'kicking'.

Dipping the now new plug in gas and screwing it in gave rather more improvement, in fact it almost sounded like it was going to start.

A diesel mechanic here on the island judged the compression by the thumb test to be adequate.

So back to the Carb. I improved the seal of the carb to the block with Silicone, a desperate measure that had no effect. I also sealed the bowl gasket with gasket compound as it had seeped slightly, of course no effect.

When a finger is placed over the little hole in the choke plate when it covers the carb inlet fuel comes up the jet.

Subsequent cranking showed a slight pulse of fuel or mist coming back out of the air inlet of the carb. Is this normal?

What would be the symptoms of a faulty reed valve or whatever valves the fuel into the crankshaft housing before it it pumped up by the piston?

I am not familiar with how that works or how it can go wrong.

I plan to start taking the needles etc out of the carb but worry that it may mean the end of it, tomorrow. It is evening now here in Malaysia

Thanks in advance for any further enlightenment you can come up with.

Jim
 
Success at last and grist for your mill!!

Hi

I was disappointed with the lack of response to my post re the reed valves for the non starting Mariner 3.3 but I guess you guys gave me up for lost. :)

Yesterday I took the carb apart. I had been afraid to do that as there are no spare parts here and it looked quite corroded. However it all came apart fine. I polished the needles etc etc reassembled it and attempted to start the motor. No Joy!

I then took everything off the motor, cowling, gas tank, carb, spark plug walked it up to the shore and poured one pint of gasoline/oil through the inlet to the crankcase while gently moving the two reed valves (Thanks again for that manual!) with a tongue depressor.

I reassembled all and while checking for a spark noticed the air coiming out of the spark plug hole on the back of my hand. Something I had not felt so distinctly before.

I inserted the plug and the motor started on the first pull and has done so a dozen times since. It runs like old, like a charm!! I assume that something kept one of the reed valves from closing thus lowering both the compression and the suction. Wikipedia and others have a wonderful animation of two stroke engines at work. I learned a lot!!

I was careful doing the flushing to the point of moving away from the puddle of gas before moving the piston to flush any remaining gas and had no problems.

Thanks again for all your help. I will certainly remember this site and recommend it to other.

I am posting again thinking you might want to know the successful outcome and that perhaps my experience might help others----

Jim
 
Back
Top