changed carb engine runs hotter fuel air mix?

Replaced the carb on my 454 crusader fuel consumption is very good now, but the engine is running 20 degrees hotter and going from idle to 1000 rpms slowly it almost shuts down if i push the throttle faster it runs good a guy in my marina told me its not getting enough air in the combustion chamber and both issues will be solved as soon as i adjust. My questions is that correct and my quadrajet has two screws in front of it with springs not counting the idle screw and do i turn them both? one? in any order and how far don't want to mess it up
Thank you for your help

There are several posts on idle adjustment - search the crusader board with key words "idle" and "adjust". You'll find lots of discussion on how to turn those two idle mixture screws.

Mixture adjustment could help during the transition from idle. depends upon what carb you had and what you got to replace it. The thottle plates have a preferred position relative to the transfer slots and many (even new) carbs never have this adjustment tuned for the particular engine they sit upon.

When you stab the throttle, the accelerator pump discharges enough fuel to cover the transition.

The 20 degrees hotter seems a bit much. You didn't say but if at elevated rpm, I'd suspect things may be lean due to a gasket leak. You did change the gasket under the carb when it was changed???

yes temp goes up higher with rpms and drops if I run the engine at 2000-2300rpms i did change the gasket maybe its not thick enough the old one looked thicker and how tight should the carb be mounted does anyone has torque #

So it is a 20 increase over what was 'normal' before....a vacuum gauge will tell you for sure if a leak exists.

Depending upon the specific year, the carb fastener torque shows as 11 or 12 Ft*lb in my service lit.

thicker gaskets are usually better and are common in marine apps - the thin ones are usually intended for auto use.

I am lost at this point adjusted the carb have good transition going in to gear temp is still going higher when before the carb change.
I changed th t stat checked raw water pump its good I can run the engine at the dock with no load at any rpm and it will not go above 160 on the water at 2600rpms it goes to 180 and holds if I push pass 3000 it goes to 190. Everything looks good as far as raw water flow.
Can't locate vacuum leak and rpms are steady I thought the leak would make them fluctuate?

OK, so the mixture went a bit leaner, and now it overheats. Before the carb work, you where throwing excess fuel into the combustion chamber, which has a cooling effect, especially on exhaust gas temp. The fact that you are overheating now points to a marginal cooling system, not bad fuel/air.

I would argue the point about "looks good as far as raw water flow".
Well, maybe it does look good, but is the flow at 3200rpm normal?

What does internal inspection of the RW pump reveal?
How old is the U cooler? Has it ever been opened or acid cleaned?
Is this a salt water boat? When was the last time the elbow/risers were changed?
What is the service history with the HE?

I cleaned U cooler opened up HE all passages looked clean took the boat out same problem switched raw water pumps from port to starboard and went out port engine didn't go pass 180 even with higher rpms and temp dropped quick with lower rpms starboard didn't go pass 175 with raw water pump from port engine i am lost here its got to me the raw water flow issue the pump from starboard is pumping better and engine running at normal temp now, but the pump which didn't have enough for the port is working fine on the starboard side. What else could be restricting water flow? Thank you for your help

If I read that right, both engines are now working well. Nonetheless, I'd open up the suspect pump and inspect it.
It's a boat; all these RW items slowly go bad. If too many things in the system are subpar, it will overheat. It is possible that the same pump will cause overheat on one engine, and not on another, due to other, marginal items. Or, some impeller bits came out of the hose on the last R&R. Or, the impeller is now using a "non-worn" side, since it's now rubbing on the other side of the vanes

I'd suggest inspecting the cams real close - the 'outlet' side usually wears faster then the inlet side. If you swap the pumps on the engines, the cams' sides switch I/O functions. This may be just enough to have changed the water flow.

Also may have sealed up a minor vacuum leak between the raw water inlet hose and the pump when the pumps were swapped port to starboard...

Gotta jump in here. If this was a lean fuel air problem, your motor would have pigged like crazy and blown a few pistons by now if THAT alone was raising the temperature. What you have here, I believe is a coincidence: you changed carbs AND messed up something in the cooling system.

The bottom line: I doubt if a motor could heat up that much from an ignition screw up (seriously retarded) or carb mixture issue without wrecking something.

Jeff

The question is what else to look for in the cooling system just to be safe all suggestions are greatly appreciated, because i go 80+ miles offshore twice a week tuna fishing would really hate to be stuck out in the canyon with one engine.
Thank you.
Denis.

Yikes! Don't blame you.

I had a SLIGHT air leak in the strainer on one engine and it caused serious overheating. Raw water pumps are lazy and would far prefer to pump air than water! Also, and this is far from obvious, aerated water is far less effective at removing heat than pure water, so that KOs your cooling system as well.

Look for a gasket leak on a strainer cover (my problem), a leaking seacock valve, or a loose connection on a hose.

Jeff