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Honda 2 hp 4 strk shaft won't turn

Roger Vaughan

New member
The like-new Honda 2 hp 4 strk that came with my sailboat runs like a top, but the shaft (and propellor) wont turn, even when the throttle is advanced. Any advice? I'm looking for a diagram that will help me take the shaft apart and find the problem. Or is this a job for a certified mechanic? [email protected]
 
Do you know the year?

If this is a (direct drive) model - always in forward gear (no shifter/no neutral/no reverse) there is very little in the gearcase, so with even a basic aftermarket manual it's not a big job to tear it down.

Because of the simple design there is a limited number of things that can go wrong.

First off, there is no clutch at all. So the prop should be spinning even when you pull the rope start - the prop doesn't "engage" when you give it a little gas - it's always in gear.

So if it's not spinning (whenever the flywheel is moving) you have either a bad driveshaft (splines shot at the top, or at the bottom where the pinion gear connects), a toasted pinion gear, a toasted forward gear, or a bad propshaft - OR the splines are chewed at the bottom of the crankshaft (but you cross your fingers those are ok - that would be the most expensive/most work component)....
 
The newer models have centrifugal clutches in them. As you advance the throttle the clutch engages as the motor speeds up. It is located under the powerhead. It is a little tricky to replace but it does not take a rocket scientist.

So it all depends on which model that you have.

If you are not sure, reply with the serial number on the side of the frame of the engine.


One last thought..... that applies to both models.

Have you checked the shear pin at the propeller? If it is sheared, the prop will not turn. There may be some extra ones on the engine just under where the handle is in front.

Just take the cotter pin out of the prop and slip it off. The shear pin goes through the prop shaft right in front of the prop.

Mike
 
Do you know the year?

If this is a (direct drive) model - always in forward gear (no shifter/no neutral/no reverse) there is very little in the gearcase, so with even a basic aftermarket manual it's not a big job to tear it down.

Because of the simple design there is a limited number of things that can go wrong.

First off, there is no clutch at all. So the prop should be spinning even when you pull the rope start - the prop doesn't "engage" when you give it a little gas - it's always in gear.

So if it's not spinning (whenever the flywheel is moving) you have either a bad driveshaft (splines shot at the top, or at the bottom where the pinion gear connects), a toasted pinion gear, a toasted forward gear, or a bad propshaft - OR the splines are chewed at the bottom of the crankshaft (but you cross your fingers those are ok - that would be the most expensive/most work component)....
Thanks. Very helpful. It's a BF2D, don't know year, but very few hours. Ran fine, then suddenly won't turn. Not abused. As you say, it starts running when you start it, even when on slow. You give me hope to start taking it apart. Film at 11. Thanks again for taking the time. Roger
 
The newer models have centrifugal clutches in them. As you advance the throttle the clutch engages as the motor speeds up. It is located under the powerhead. It is a little tricky to replace but it does not take a rocket scientist.

So it all depends on which model that you have.

If you are not sure, reply with the serial number on the side of the frame of the engine.


One last thought..... that applies to both models.

Have you checked the shear pin at the propeller? If it is sheared, the prop will not turn. There may be some extra ones on the engine just under where the handle is in front.

Just take the cotter pin out of the prop and slip it off. The shear pin goes through the prop shaft right in front of the prop.

Mike
Hi and thanks for responding. Motor is BF2D, ser 2306318. Don't think it has clutch as when it was turning, it turned as soon as it started even on slow. I checked the shear pin and that is intact. It's like new, ran fine, then suddenly the prop won't turn. Strange. Roger
 
Do not mean to be stuck on one point...but just want to be sure which engine we are dealing with.

If the first four letters of your serial number is BZBF or BZBJ, then the motor is a 2007 or later. If you are in the US, I do not know of any 2 HP sold after 2007 that did not have a centrifugal clutch under the power head.

If the clutch ever got wet, it can rust and freeze in one spot. If the motor ever went into the water, the clutch got wet.

You can still pull the lower unit and see if the prop shaft moves when you turn the vertical shaft. There was no change in that function.

Mike
 
Mike, I have a limited selection of Honda manuals but it looks like the BF2D's had the clutch.

My "non-current" manuals show the BF2A as the one without the clutch - which is what I kinda assumed the motor was in the first place.

Do you know if there was ever a BF2B/BF2C (just interested for my own notes) - I don't see many Honda's at all, but just wondering if I'm missing a couple books on the little kickers (which is what I see if anything)....
 
No 2B or 2C's that I know of. The first one or two years of the 2D, there was still a direct drive version, but it was controlled from the tiller handle as opposed to the slide on the front of the engine.
 
Hello all--
Okay, I drained the oil and pulled the diamond shaped plate around the propeller shaft, and the gearing looks just fine. Clean and shiny. No teeth missing. No metal dust. Then I pulled the lower unit, and pulled out the long drive shaft. The splines at the top looked like new. I was able to turn the long drive shaft by hand and turn the propeller shaft. I wiped everything down, greased the splines, and put it all back together.
So whatever is preventing the propeller from turning must be up higher in the drive train.
I'm a tad shy about removing the four bolts and the two allen screws that appear to hold the engine on, concerned that various unknown parts (springs, bearings) might come flying out. Do I need to put the engine upside down to do this? Any advice would be welcome. I'm in new territory.
As I said this is a BF2D, serial #2306318. When I removed the engine cover, the whole thing looks factory new. I doubt this engine has 2 hours on it.
Roger
 
Just checked on the following serial number...BZBF-2306318. If this is your motor's full serial number, the original owner lived in Yarmouth, ME 04096. The motor was purchased on 7/2/08. It has a five year warranty.

If this matches your information, I would call a local dealer and check into having this repaired under warranty. If there is some question, whether it is covered or not, then at least you have the option to fix it yourself or have them do it.

Mike
 
Mike-- Thanks. That is my serial #, and yes the previous owner is in Yarmouth, Me. I guess the warranty goes with the motor? I will take it to a dealer and see what's up. Thanks for the advice. Roger
 
Update on July 31 2010: Took the Honda 2hp 4 strk to the local Honda dealer. Took him 3 weeks to get to it, but sure enough the clutch had failed (don't have details yet). Parts have been ordered, and yep, warranty applied. Should have it back in service by end of next week. Thanks again for the help and advice. Roger
 
Trying to work on a Honda 7.5 BF75S. I am trying to discover why there is little to no cooling water coming out. First time trying to tackle this and could use some advice. I will try to clean out the rubber hose line coming from the engine, then I guess the impeller is next, but not sure how to access that.
Any advice?
 
Hi jam7712,

Not trying to be rude but you should really pose your question by starting a new thread. That immediatly does two things; puts your query at the top of the "heap" so that you get more readers and more responses. As it stands now, your question is under "Re: 2 hp 4 strk shaft won't turn" but should (and would) read "Honda 7.5 BF75S No Cooling" with a new thread.

Also, a new thread keeps all the dialogue easier to track as opposed to having one long, never ending stream of consciousness about every problem known to "Hondadom". That way we can all learn about your particular problem and from your ultimate solution.

Thanks,
jimmyd
 
I'm a newbie - my search led me to this thread. I have a Honda BF2D which ran fine last year. This year the prop refused to turn. Took off the lower unit but it works fine - the splined end turns smoothly. However the outer clutch which has the female splined part and the round housing that fits over the clutch "shoes" seems to be jammed. No idea how to take it apart. There is a circlip I can see through one of the cutouts in the round housing. I wonder if anyone knows how to disassemble this outer clutch? Thank you for any suggestions!
 
Have you pulled the powerhead to get access to the clutch? http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2006/BF2D6 SCHA /CLUTCH/parts.html

If so, you will to remove the circlip from its groove through one of the slits. It will not come out the slit...you just remove it out of its groove. It locks the bearing in place. Once the circlip is released, you turn the assembly over# 9 over and using a punch that fits through the bottom hole, drive the bearing out of #9. The bearing and the clutch will probably comeout and stay together.

You will need at least a new bearing #10. I would also change the seal #11, since you have it apart.

Inspect the inner and outer clutch assemblies. If rusted, scored, etc, you should change them too.

You can order the outer clutch with the bearing and a new circlip already together.

If you have not removed the powerhead, you have to do so to get to the clutch assembly.

Mike
 
Thanks for your reply! I have pulled the engine and have the outer clutch assembly by itself. This morning was able to free the bearing with Deep Creep and it runs smoothly. Am thinking I will clean up everything and lubricate the bearing and put the engine back together. We are near the end of the season here in Nova Scotia so would like to get in a few days of sailing. If the bearing gives me trouble I will replace it over the winter. I found an online service manual btw - http://boatinfo.no/lib/honda/manuals/bf2dws.html#/0 - thanks again!
 
Reviving an ancient thread here.

I found some really useful information in thread, especially from HondaDude, and have a few things to add that may help someone else in this situation.

A little background, I recently picked up a 2003 2hp BF2D, it did not run and the "gear box was locked up". I was able to get the motor running well with in a few minutes simply by cleaning out the carb bowl, however there was obviously an issue with either the clutch or lower unit.

I removed the lower leg and was able to watch the shaft spin free by rotating the propeller so I figured it must be the clutch issue discussed in this thread. After completely disassembling all of the "stuff" off of the power head I was able to remove the clutch housing. It was immediately obvious that water had penetrated the housing as the outer clutch assembly that fits through the bearing in the lower part of the housing would not spin at all and there was some light rust and obvious corrosion on the assembly. For fun, since I was hiding from my spousal unit in the garage, I decided to try and free it up with a combination of WD-40 and some PB Blaster penetrating oil. Surprisingly that didn't immediately work so I spray a few ounces on it and decided to let it sit for a while. In the mean time, since I was confident I could have this outboard running well, I went inside to see if I could order the bearing and discovered that the part was listed a "unavailable". (Part #10 on the diagram). My parents later showed up at the house and much to the womenfolk's dismay my stepfather and I decided to see if we could free up the bearing, which we did however it was a little gritty and it was obvious that it was going to need to be replace. Using HondaDude's advice above I knocked out the bearing using a punch which was pretty easy. Frustrated by the "unavailable" status of the bearing I began searching the web for any info I could find. Eventually I found a parts sheet that listed the bearing without a Honda part number but it had (6004) in parenthesis. I quickly searched Amazon for "bearing ISO 6004" and found a bearing with the same dimensions in a few different versions. I decided to order the sealed version which looked most similar to what I had removed 6004-2RS. I really needed to get the outboard back together before our family vacation to the beach as I wanted to take my son crabbing, so the next day not wanting to wait on Amazon I stopped by a local bearing supply store and with lots of excitement and flailing arms told the guy about the outboard. I was quickly chastised about buying cheap Chinese bearings on Amazon and he sold me a Koyo bearing made in Austria or $16. I took it home, pressed it into the clutch housing using a small block of wood and a hammer and reassembled the outboard. It ran great... really, really good.

Since I basically had $16 into the motor I decided to order a new outer clutch assembly, the housing, new clutch friction plates off the internet for about $88. Figure I'll replace the entire clutch assembly with new parts over the Winter. But for now the $16 fix worked great pushing around my Zodiac all week on the Bay at Ocean City, MD.

When the new parts arrived I discovered that the outer clutch assembly design has changed a little; there is now a second Circ Clip holding the bearing on the bottom, there is no longer a capped hole where the shaft fits into the out clutch, and the assembly ships with a KOYO brand bearing ISO 6004-RDD. I quickly looked this bearing up and can't seem to find it anywhere; maybe it is OEM specifically for Honda. Anyway, bearing 6004-RD seems to be the same thing. The difference between the 6004-2RS bearing that I used and 6004-RD is that the RD is a "low torque" bearing.
 
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