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krayyzworm

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I have a '74 SRV240 Searay. It sat for about 1 year without running. When I tried to start it there was no fuel getting to the engine. It would start right away when I put gas directly in the carburetor. So I figure there is an issue with the fuel pump..no big deal really. The last time I started it a grey oily sludge started coming through one of the threaded holes on the front of the block, in the area next to the fuel pump. I am thinking this is a serious problem. Like a crack somewhere between the water jacket an the oil in the engine. Are there any seals or penetrations between the water and the oil??? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
 
Its a ford V8, OMC. I can post a picture of it.IMG00171-20100521-1155.jpgsludge.jpg
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That's a Chevrolet engine... can't help with the leak though...definitely oil and water mixing
 
So if I leave the engine as it is and remove the hoses, plug wherever there is a hose going into engine then I should be able to pressurize and hear if there is a leak to the outside of the engine..what about a leak on the inside between the water and the oil. I will see the pressure loss but how will I tell where the leak is located?
 
krayyzworm said:
Hystat..why do you say not to disassemble anything? I haven't yet, I'm just wondering what your line of thinking is.
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lots of folks rip cylinder heads off and then don't find anything. have to order $75 worth of gaskets just to put it back together to pressure test (like the guy the next post down with the 2.3 - ripped into it, i don't know what to even suggest)

to pressure test, remove the 2 hoses heading for the exhaust manifolds and block them with a bolt and clamp (red x's)

remove the hose from the intermediate and introduce air pressure in the direction of the green arrow- 15 psi max.

you'll hear any internal or external leaks

searay.jpg
 
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Hey hystat...is there supposed to be some pics with these 2 posts?????


Nevermind...the pics didn't show the first time I viewed???
 
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Ok so I did both a compression test and pressure tested the cooling system as instructed. Compression test was good. Pressure test result .was that I could get no pressure to build up. The leak sounds like it is on the left rear under the valve cover (i think that is what you call it). It is definitely high up on the engine. I took the cap off and the put my ear on it and the leak is loudest there. Where do I go from here? Take off the valve cover to see if I can see the leak? Thanks for all the help!!
 
if you remove the carb and intake, you'll probably see cracks exactly like I posted a few posts up

in which case the engine block is scrap

looks like an easy engine bay to work in anyway

that's the next step. Once you verify the block is toast, can discuss replacement options, what to look for, etc

krayyzworm said:
Yes it was winterized. Water was drained from the block.
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or so you thought
 
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Guys thanks for the help. I now have to decide if its worth going any further or cutting my losses. Any advice as to how to find a replacement engine or block? I need to figure out what it's going to cost to put in a new engine. Is it even worth doing with this boat?
 
Depends on what shape the boat and the drive is in and how attached to them you are. Is this going to be one of those scenario's that when you get the engine replaced and running you find problems with the drive or what about the boat, the condition of the floor and transom, etc???
 
The boat is in good shape for being 36 years old. The floor, hull, etc is in good shape. Just put on a used lower unit drive. I have not used it yet, but I know it works from when I was trying to get the engine running a few weeks back. It may quit after running ten minutes though, I don't know. A marina owner from northern michigan told me to get rid of the boat because the OMC lower unit and the gear drives are a pain in the butt and not dependable. I don't have too much attachment to the boat, I'm just stubborn.
 
I understand completely about being stubborn. I have almost swapped my complete "parts" boat into the one I use. One advantage you have is small block chevy engines are plentiful and cheap. You just need to figure out if its a 305 or 350.
 
G'day Hystat,

I am lucky I live down here. Never seen an engine as bad as that. Heck, we are in mid Winter now, and the lowest it gets outside, overnight is 0 degrees C. Actually, everyone north of Tasmania says Tasmania is a clod place.

krayyzworm,

Any SBC Block of the same size as the one you have will do. Just replace the Welsh Plugs with Brass or Stainless Steel ones.

Bruce.
 
as everyone is saying - you can get a 350 from any car or truck pre-1987 - you must get one with the 2 pc rear main seal. do NOT get a newer chevy unless it is a Mexican made crate motor- the new 350/290HP crate engines have the 2 pc rear main which will fit your coupler but domestic engines after 1987 have a different crank

check your manifolds underneath for cracks... those look original

If you have a trailer and a passport, I have a 350 sitting in the garage.... :)
 
G'day hystat,

Thanks for reminding me about the use of the two-piece rear main seal. I forgot about the later one-piece seals, as I have never laid my hands on one of those down here either. I need to get up with newer stuff.

Bruce.
 
I have a trailer..but passport is expired...I am interested though. How do I tell the size of the engine I have? Where are you in Canada? I'm in SE Michigan.
 
You can a complete kit for the new to you motor. 500 bucks mani's risers and all the gaskets in one kit. Maybe cheaper on some sites.

You know what if Hy says he got the motor for you, then i would bet my bottom dollar it's a good motor.

So figure a way to get there or have him ship it.

Another option, i was in the junk yard yesterday must be the same all over there was 100, 350 motors complete, from cars that were ordered to destroy the gas eating motors.

Yea right they are for sale 300-500 take your pick.
 
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