1992 90hp model Johnson auto oiler

What do I need to do to discontinue use of the auto oiler on my '92 model 90hp Johnson? I'm not a real good mechanic so speak in shadetree terms, please.

Re: 92 model Johnson auto oiler

Is it broke? if so, there are literally thousands of posts here that will tell you how to disconnect it. If it's not broke why do you want to make more work for yourself?

Re: 92 model Johnson auto oiler

Before you do anything else, mix you gas at 50:1. Start her up and run it for awhile to get the pre-mix through all the carbs and into the cylinders. Then you may cut the oil line about an inch or two from the VRO pump. Insert a bolt into the line that's still connected to the pump. Clamp that bolt/line to prevent any air from being sucked into the pump. You may then remove the oil tank & related hoses. Don't forget to disable the low oil and no oil alarm wiring as well.

Re: 92 model Johnson auto oiler

If you are going to stop using the VRO to pump oil, it is best to replace it with an ordinary fuel pump. Even though you plug the oil hose to the pump, the pump can still develop serious problems that would be tough to notice.

Re: 92 model Johnson auto oiler

The fuel pump side of the VRO should continue to work, but the oil side will be damaged by running dry. Once you disconnect the oil side, you can never go back without replacing the pump

Re: 92 model Johnson auto oiler

dcramer said:

The fuel pump side of the VRO should continue to work, but the oil side will be damaged by running dry. Once you disconnect the oil side, you can never go back without replacing the pump

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I should have been clearer on my first post. When I bought this motor the previous owner had the pump disconnected.(only a couple of weeks before I bought it.) I read many posts to find what I needed to do to keep from damaging my motor. Most of the posts I read had to do with acceleration, dying, idle speed, etc. If you could tell me how to get more specific posts, please do. Thanks for the info.

Re: 92 model Johnson auto oiler

I'll just throw my 2 cents into your thoughts.

This model would have had OMC's VRO2 system which was/is an excellent system and really is a "variable rate oiler" compared to some systems which strictly mix at 50:1.

This one vary's the mix between 150:1 and 50:1 as required and as noted it is a combination fuel pump and oil pump.

And yes I realize the replacement cost can be upwards of 400 bucks, but you can change it in your driveway with very few tools.

Over the service life of your engine running it with the VRO will cut your total oil consumption in half compared to running "mix it yourself" - since you can't vary the mix in a tank.

With a decent 2 stroke oil going for about 20 bucks a gallon if you use your motor a fair bit it doesn't take long for the VRO to pay for itself.

Plus you add in the cost of dealing with all the extra carbon that the cylinders get loaded up with and the plugs get fouled with because you are running 50:1 when the motor only needs 150:1 and after not too long "mixing yourself" becomes a far more expensive prospect that replacing the VRO.

So I would suggest that you get some actual facts on the pro's/con's of the system - and I don't mean "some guy" down at the dock.

Ask the experts - I think you will hard pressed to find many that can say to you for a fact that a powerhead was toasted because of a bad VRO2 system - it's a myth that these kill motors - owners who neglect the regular maintenance kill 99 motors for every 1 that dies due to factory defect, parts defect or an oiler that decided to quit (which has an alarm system that will tell you if it's not pumping oil).

To replace the fuel pump on this with the "fuel pump only" version would cost you about 200 bucks anyhow, why not drop the other 200 and put back a proven, safe system that will save you money in the long run....

(and yes, I run a VRO2 which replaced the original VRO on my 1986, 140 and if it ever goes another new one will replace it)...