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Boat listing to one side

What do I have to do to correct the boat listing to the port side. I have a 86 searay Seville with a merc 140 and Alpha one outdrive. I have put a new prop on the boat but its the only one I have used so far and would not know what another prop would do while riding. No matter how many people are on the boat it still does it also
 
Sounds like too many people are sitting on one side.

But, seriously, there has to be a loading problem somewhere.

How does it sit when empty?

Have you water trapped in any of the buoyancy tanks, if any are fitted?

Bruce.
 
It still list to one side even when its only me in the boat and I dont weigh verymuch. as far as a tank I dont even know if I have any or where they would be
 
under the deck this a cuddy ? Maybe water logged foam ? Both myself and friend had water hidden under the cuddy deck in 2 compartments the drains were clogged.

Only way to get in was to cut a access hole at a angle and when we were done glued back in the plug.
 
Water weighs 7 lbs a gallon got a 100 gallons of water or soaked foam thats 700 lbs.

What trim tab gonna fix that ?

How big a boat ?

You got to get into the deck of the cuddy, you think i wanted to cut a hole in the deck i had nothing else to do that day ?
 
Also would some type of trim tab correct the problem?

I have on my 20ft wellcraft stainless trim tabs mount on the stern one on each side about 6inches from the outer edge they are about 12x 4 inches .. they have adjustible studs to vary the angle ...for some reason my boat has starboard side lower than the port when running ..

this could be because of the hull shape ...

they work and reduce the power needed to get up to planning speed ..you don't need much angle to change this they look almost straight ...with bottom of the boat hull..

some use more expensive trims tabs that you can adjust from the operators console ..
 
No matter how oddly the trim tabs are adjusted, if the balance of the boat is out, it will list to one side when stationary.

Got to be something wrong with the internals.

Bruce.
 
Ah ha, so your buoyancy problem is directly linked to a flotation problem.

Better get rid of the wet foam and replace it with new stuff as if you get full of water, you really stand a very good chance of sinking completely.

Bruce.

PS. Good to know you have found the problem though.
 
There are 2 schools of thought concerning foam, once when wet has to be removed, thats a given, but the question of to replace it and then it get wet again, why replace it ?
 
My Gull Wing was advertised as "Unsinkable" due to the amount of foam that was inserted under the floor.

So, when I removed it, and all the rotten wood that was a result of the water retention, oh, and the Carpenter Ants, I sealed up the compartments when I replaced the timber.

Hopefully, I never hit anything to stick a hole in the hull to remove the buoyancy.

Bruce.
 
I just cut a 2" hole in the back and the foam is saturated!


keeping the interior of the boat hull dry is important ..the more water trapped inside of the hull the hull life will be reduced ...

water will attract insects ...

correct the water problem when replacing the foam..
 
I think the original owner who my uncle got the boat from left it outside and rain was let into it. The cover that came with it is older and was never water proofed so to me tells me how the water got into it
 
The worst element for any boat with wood in it is to be allowed to soak up fresh water.

That is what happened to mine, even though the drain plug was left out. The carpet soaked every drop, and once the rot started, it continued, out of sight.

Bruce.
 
When you pull up the floor, it will be UGLY.

But, if your framing is good, you will only need to cut a hole sufficiently large enough so you can access the area, with tools like a handsaw to cut the foam into manageable sizes to remove.

I used a panel saw to simple push through and cut in an action like using a paint scraper and a blow torch removing paint, without the blow torch.

Bruce.
 
I think the framing is bad too. Do you know if its 2x4 or plywood by any chance because it looks like it could be either. I pulled up the rug and some of the plywood a bit ago and it crumbled from being so water logged. I have built in seats how do I remove them without having to rebuild them?
 
Sounds like you are about to do what I had to do. I was removing Wasp Nests, and I removed the carpeting and found that the flooring was a bit soft in places, so decided to get rid of the "loose" stuff, as I was exporting the lot home, from NY to Tasmania, and didn't want any surprises with Quarantine and Customs. Boy, was I surprised when I was confronted with the sight of thousands of live Carpenter Ants. Had to remove those, or hell would have broken loose if they were found. As it was, four eggs that I didn't find hatched on the trip over, and then the whole thing had to be fumigated with Methyl Bromide, at my cost.

At least the old timber and ply framing came out easily, as it wasn't that well stuck to the fibreglass, and it didn't look like it was Marine Ply that was used in the first place.

Now, I have a "New" boat.

Bruce.
 

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Hope you can too.

Mine took a fair while as I had to replace ALL the wood, Re-upholster, Rebuild the engine and Leg, which meant chasing parts all over the world, clean out the complete fuel system, rectify wiring problems, rebuilt the crushed windscreens, and re-build the trailer and winch. Oh, and replace the trailer wiring and lights to Australian Standards.

It all took 12 months, with a lot of time sourcing OMC specific parts, and waiting for them.

We won't mention price. But, postage was horrendous.

Bruce.
 
"What do you mean by undercut them?"

Remove the flooring under molded seats that are part of the top half of the boat.

"Also how much of the cpes would I need?"

Read the directions about CPES on the website. There are other manufacturers of similar products; google CPES.
 
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