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  1. #1

    Default 1980's 9.9hp Evinrude

    Hi

    9.9 Evinrude, mid 80's I think.

    Rank n'file newbie here! Am thinking this clip, found at in the bottom of the boat is the kill switch clip and is needed to run the motor. Am I right?

    Hate to sound like an idiot, my brother used to handle all these things. As I've lost him, I now need to try to figure them out.

    Thanks for your input!

    Michelle
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Central West Florida
    Posts
    12,058

    Default Re: 80's 9.9 Evinrude

    No, that's just one portion of a broken fuel hose clamp. What kind of problem are you having?

  3. #3

    Default Re: 80's 9.9 Evinrude

    Hi Thanks for reply.

    While I'm not remarkably strong, can pull over the motor. Only minor skin loss on one finger from the rope burn. haha

    Fired it yesterday, it ran for about 3 mins, albeit a tad choppy. Then won't start. Wasn't even firing for a bit. Found fuel line disconnected, reattached. Fires but won't catch.

    Good fuel. Treated, premium mixed to 50:1 same as my chainsaw and bush-hog trimmer.

    It's teeming rain out there now. Will have to go find the identification marks on it to find out exactly which motor/year it is.

    Thoughts? Any are appreciated.

    Thanks
    Michelle

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Central West Florida
    Posts
    12,058

    Default Re: 80's 9.9 Evinrude

    Do you have normal compression on both cylinders? If no gauge, does the compression feel sufficent?

    With spark plugs removed, spark should jump a 7/16" gap. Does it?

    If an 1980s model, spark plugs should be Champion QL77JC4 plugs, gapped at eithr .030 or .040 . One gap or the opther may improve performance.

    50/1 mixture is: 1 pint of TCW-III 50/1 oil to 6 gallons of gasoline.

    If all of the above are as they should be, the usual problem is that the carburetor is fouled or not adjusted properly. If fouled, clean and rebuild it.

    (Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
    (J. Reeves)
    Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

    Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

    Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

    Note 1: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

    Note 2: If the engine should be a three (3) cylinder engine with three (3) carburetors, start the adjustment sequence with the center carburetor.
    When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

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