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2006 9.8 4 stroke

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Brad M.

New member
Looks like a great place for a wealth of info!

I have had this motor for 2 years now. Last year ran perfectly, this year it still does with the exception of when I slow down to idle. It will die although it starts right back up and will run perfectly at higher rpm's. I have read on here that one thing to do is clean the carb. Do I remove the carb and soak it or disassemble and soak it in cleaner? What is the best cleaner to use? Any and all info would be appreciated.
 
"disassemble and soak it in cleaner?" yes

" What is the best cleaner to use? " Any carburetor cleaner that is sold in a one or five gallon pail at your local auto parts store.
 
I have a 2008 9.8 it's doing the same thing.Took the carb apart soaked it
overnight and put a kit in it.No improvement.What else if anything should i
be looking at.
 
Ok I'll do that. When I reassemble with a new kit are there any adjustments to be made? Or will it be ready to go. I aslo have read that the oil level should be half way on the gauge. Or pint and a half. My oil level shows to be at the top of the oil stick. It is clean looking though. Too much oil? Can that make a difference and be part of the problem? Thank you for your help.
 
Brad, You likely do not need a kit, unless you found an improper needle/seat (sticking or leaking). But, since you have the new stuff, the float height should be OK with the new plastic float... you can check it against the sppecs in your Factory service manual.
 
jaseihc said:
I have a 2008 9.8 it's doing the same thing.Took the carb apart soaked it
overnight and put a kit in it.No improvement.What else if anything should i
be looking at.
Click to expand...

Need to know what model you have. And you are in warranty, so see what your dealer has to say.
 
jaseihc said:
Model#MFS9.8A3S
Serial#025673Xh
Click to expand...

Yes, it is likely in warranty. Check your receipt. You get 3 years from date of purchase.

I assume "it is doing the same thing" means you have a poor idle. Could be an ignition or valve lash adjustment problem, but not likely. More likely a fuel issue.

If you cannot find anything wrong in the carb, get to a dealer. That way, in the event you need a new carb due to a defect (not due to corrosion from bad fuel), it will be at no charge.
 
Thanks for the info! I'll tear it down and give it a cleaning Saturday.

So what do you think about my oil level, can that be part of the problem? Is a pint and a half enough oil to properly lube the engine?
 
The amount of oil that you add is conditional to the amount of residual oil that is left in the engine after draining. IE: No set amount. On a new engine that has less than 20 hours on it, we tell people to add enough oil to be midway between the low and high hash marks on the dip stick. On an engine with more hours, you want to be as close as possible to the top hash mark without being over. On a new engine or one where you spend an excessive amount of time at low RPMs, you will get fuel dilution into the oil causing a condition know as "gaining oil". Basically you need to check your oil every 10 or so hours and drain any excess out. You should also be changing your oil every 25 to 30 hours.
 
Looking at the Tohatsu service manual,it shows a float level of 9mm(0.354in) on page 71.Can this be correct?I do a lot of trolling so i gain a lot of oil.Don't like the idea of fuel in the oil so i change it every 5 or 6 hours.Is there any way to prevent this.Very good running engine,the factory service manual sucks.
 
No one measures the float...Flip the carb upside down and it should be level. There is no way to prevent fuel dilution in open raw water cooled engines....It's just another drawback to 4-stroke outboards that we all have to live with.
 
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