300 sterndive exhast boot

Hello everyone.

I have a Chrysler 300 sterndrive that the exhaust boot has torn to pieces. Has anyone successfully repaired one of these, or does anyone know where to get one that isn’t going to cost me over $200?

Or should I/can I just run though transom exhaust?

Any advice/help would be greatly appreciated.

Jimmy

Really guys? Nobody on this forum knows of how to repair these, or if I can run though transom exhaust with out harming the drive unit?

Jimmy, can you post a photo of the out drive, or further describe it?
During/around this year, Chrysler used their name on some of the early Volvo Penta drives.
This may be one of them, in which case I can help you.

There may have also been some joint venture with Eaton.

Does it ressemble anything like this:


Or more like this:


.

Hey Rick, here is a pic of the drive I have. I was told by some guy that the exhaust had to run though the drive for cooling purposes. I'm not sure if that true or not.

Thanks, Jimmy

Yes you have a Chrysler. We are all experiencing high increasing prices for all of our chrysler parts. Exhaust risers and elbows have increased by at least 25%. To name just two. Supply and Demand. I see you have a Merc prop on it. 16 splines on the prop shaft. Chryslers do not work on merc. The exhaust boot is important, just as the black flapper on the leg. Both stop water from entering when you stop or turn off the engine. Always have your engine at idle for about three minutes before turning the engine off. It is the same as stretching when you have finished an exercise routine. The exhaust water and fumes are best to exit through the leg. It has less disturbance. There have been post about showers on the legs. I do intend to make a proto type for my leg. You may be able to buy a mercruiser or another brand. Who knows what else you could find. I would be interested on any info on a store bought shower. The cooler the oil the better. The three boots are important. Annually completely remove your leg and servive the uv. Do not forget to grease the point on your bell housing. If you spend 4 hours a year doing the complete maint.Servicing the leg. Drain from the bottom and FILL from the botton. Have you removed the top cover to look at cones and gears? You have a dip stick on that top cover plate. Remove it when you drain and fill the leg. Leg MUST not be tilted when changing oil. Two containers to collect the oil, first to enable collection of the initial drain [ you can see what is it ], second the remainder. Do not over fill. What type of oil do you use? There is a small hole in the front of the buttom of the leg , make sure that is clear, to enable water to exit. Do you have a parts and service manual? I have assumed that you are like me. STILL LEARNING.

Hi Jimmy,
"the exhaust had to run though the drive for cooling purposes"
I think someone is pulling your leg.
I would definitely run the exhaust through the transom. One outlet each side.
You eliminate all the problems of corrosion in the leg and transom housing.
Also you don't have the heat of the exhaust adding to the overall temperature of the leg.
The engine will also run cooler with less back pressure and a freer flow of cooling water.
Also you have the sweet sound of the exhaust.
You will have to make up a blanking plate for the transom housing and don't forget to put flappers on the outlets so you don't have any water entry on backing up.
Cheers,
Mike

Jimmy,
I also noticed that there is a large piece of your skeg missing from the bottom of the leg. Check the attached pic.
You will have to get this repaired or replaced as it is there to protect the prop and give you directional stability.
You will also see in the attached pic the correct prop for this leg.
Mike

Well, first I must say that I am surprised to see this drive on a 1978 boat.
I've seen the Chrysler engines used with the Volvo Penta drives during/around that year range. The ID Tag will say "Chrysler" on them!
But this drive in '78???? Hmmmm.
I think that Eaton was involved with this drive for Chrysler..... not sure!


I have to agree with Mike......., I too think that someone is pulling your leg on the issue of the exhaust being required to run through the drive for cooling.
However, the Sea Water intake may result in a portion of the upper unit cooling! It does so with the M/C Alpha drive, and it may also with this drive!
That may be what they are thinking!
But exhaust..... NO! At least not to my knowledge!


You will do just fine if you want to do Thru-Hull exhaust, but be prepared to put up with the loudness.
There are silencer tips that you can use.

If you were to do Thru-Hull exhaust, be sure to space it correctly in the event that you would want to someday change to a different drive system.
Any of the AQ series Volvo Penta use a large "foot-print" transom shield housing that may work with your existing transom cut-out!
(you'd have to research this)
Since Chrysler had a previous marriage with Volvo Penta, the parts necessary should be available. (Volvo Penta/Chrysler Flywheel Cover primarily)


As for Back-Flow prevention......, the flappers available for Thru-Hull exhaust are more than adequate for back-flow prevention.
They are widely used in Marine applications!

Mike, nice older boat you have there!
I couldn't help but notice the open deck scuppers! Are you concerned about back-flow prevention at these scuppers?
Just curious!
Rick

OK, thanks for the response. Sometimes it helps just knowing I'm not the only one on this lonely Chrysler outdrive island. I go to the parts stores and boat wrecking yards here in Sacramento and all I get back is the lost blank deer in the head lights looks.

Coaster, I have pulled the top cover and the cones/gears, to my suprise, look to be in great shape. I have not changed the oil yet. What type of oil is best for this drive? I also dont have a parts and service manual yet, but I'm sure it would tell me in there. I had no clue that there was even a hole because it was so plugged up! Am I wrong in thinking that the merc prop will work? I have had the boat out for a few short runs and it seems fine. Or do I need to start the search for the prop?

Mike, I noticed the skeg as well, but didn't realize it was that bad! Nice looking boat by the way. I figued that the guy was just blowing smoke, I just wanted someone else to agree with me before I started cutting holes in my transom!

Rick, the crusader boats weren't made for very long. It was just a mom and pop type company in Anaheim CA. before it burnt down in the early 80s, from what I have read. Might be the reason for the Chrysler drive? I'm not sure! Very good to know that I can get a chrysler to Volvo Penta/Chrysler Flywheel Cover though!

Thanks again guys!

The 300 stern drive. United States Patent No 4049102 20 September 1977. Inventor John Hurst , Assignee Chrysler Corporation Highland Park Michigan, Application No 706365. In Australia we all run older and newer boats. Chrysler was not well accepted here. The 300 leg was only produced for 4 years ,1976 -1979 approx, due to the Federal Government bail out requirements to save their auto division. History repeats. The Star boat that Mike has is as good as the day it was produced, well constructed. The Nissan / Chrysler Turbo diesel developed 130 HP approx. It is a testament to the strength of the Chrysler 300 HB leg . With proper servicing, will last for years. Jimmys' leg is a HA. The top box of the HB is stronger than the HA. While both have cone clutches they are different. You can fry an egg on the top box of a 300 after a couple of hours of hard running. That is why i referred to a shower. They are a great leg but some parts can be hard to get. That is, if Dave Kain doesn't have them. Bearings are no problem to locate. We have been running our Chrysler 300 for about 30 years. Some boats suit transom exhausting, mine is through the leg and as long as my spare parts inventory exists it will continue. My project boat is a 2005 Riviera M430 with twin 496 HO through Bravo 3 duo props. Now that's a nightmare, all 47 feet of it with the black devils, not green monsters. Hope this helps to give Jimmy and others some insight.

Well, that makes it understandable! The company probably used New Old Stock of these drives for their boats!
It is an odd looking drive, I must say!
I'll bet that parts availability is very limited since this drive was produced for only 4 years.
It is no doubt an issue today!
IMO, if you should have trouble with this drive, I'd certainly consider changing it to the Volvo before spending one dime on it!
(again, if the transom cut-out will work, or can be made to work, with the V/P)

There are tons of good used Volvo Penta parts around, and will be for years.
The boats litterally rot out way before anything goes wrong with the V/P drives. Lots of soft transom donor boats out there.

If you have any questions regarding this, give me a holler.
I can tell you which parts work with what.
I've done these conversions from Mercruiser to Volvo Penta more than once!
I have not done one with this particular drive.

BTW, Volvo's Duo Prop can be added to any of their drives.
If you know a bit about Volvo's pattented Duo Prop, you'll know what this would do for your boat!

.

The 300 has a larger transom cut than merc , volvo/omc cobra. Is anything going? Even if it is. I would remove the 300 leg [only] from the boat and check the cv. If these shatter you can destroy you leg. I have a spare leg where this has occurred. You will have to remove the change cable. Do this from the motor side. NB . Follow it down to the inner transon shield. There is a rubber stoper in the transom. Remove it and the cable will just slide out when the leg is removed. You can have problems removing the two piviot pins they can be seized. I have applied heat to the alum around these pins. The pins are S/S and there is a teflon fiber cylindrical washer that cover these. Do not burn these. Do a template of the skeg and post a photo including measurements. then we can see how muvh is missing. Rick has also suggested plan B [ Volvo ].

It seems to work fine. The piviot pins seem to have a lot of play in them though. I know that when I got the boat the upper bolt where the steering arm is was so loose that the whole leg was rocking at least 1" side to side. That probably wore the lower piviot pins. The other issue is that when I got the boat the tweaker had the sherwood pump on bacwards and had over heated the motor pretty bad. I cleaned what I would say to be at least 2 inpellers worth of rubber out of the exhaust and drive. Im guessing this is why the exhaust boot is melted/torn. He wasn't the brightest to say the least.

I saw in the archives that someone (Dave Kain?) was working on a transom adapter to bolt in that would accept differant outdive units. That sounds like a great idea if it grenaded and you couldnt fix/find another.

If want an exhaust boot David Kain has them. "http://www.hurrikain.com/Chrysler-300-stern.htm".
He also has the parts and service manuals.
A little bit of play in the pivot bushes is not a big problem.
The steering trunnion bearings are tapered rollers and you need to loosen the clamp bolt on the arm and just nip them up with the bolt on top of the arm with a small spanner and then tighten the clamp bolt pretty tight.
I can give the exact torque settings tomorrow as my manuals are in the boat, which is a few miles away.

The boat was made to survey and has a self draining deck. We opted to just have the rear scuppers.
To be licensed as a commercial boat it needed another 3 scuppers down each side. this would have made the deck quite wet.
We might get a bit in if we backup a bit fast.
The deck is normally 12" above the waterline.
Mike

Well! We will follow your progress. I have used a S/S shim instead of the teflon and this was grooved and grease points positioned on the forked steering yoke. In have seen shattered legs in all brands due to poor maintenance of the CV or UV. As for high prices, all boat owners experience this. Chrysler, more than others.

I thought I would chime in on the drive for you.. Yes it is a Chrysler built unit that John Hurst designed. It is a great unit but YES the parts are getting tough to get and while we are having some of the parts reproduced ( the exhaust boot / driveline boot / and the shift cables ) your right the prices for the parts are high.. This comes down to were having them made on a small time basis.. The company that makes them for us lets us order them at about 6-12 parts parts per order. So with these low quantities they are not doing alot for us on prices ( but at least they will make them for us! ) I wish they would make them at 10 dollars a piece so we could offer a low price, but with such a limited market were just not willing to invest a large amount into a shrinking market... I will say I have been looking for a alternative to the drive or a way we could mate a different make to the transom mount, but I really don't see a easy way to do it so right now I think were stuck trying to make do.

As far as Chrysler's costing you more than others I would say on the drives yes, but on the engines I think your at about the same cost ( or really close ).

I have one of the largest inventories of Chrysler 300 Sterndrive parts and Chrysler Jet drive parts in the country, and if you decide to swap out the drive let me know I am always looking for units so we can keep as many of these boats on the water.

Jimmy,
The steering arm pinch bolt should be loosen and the top bolt tightened to 200 in/lbs, then loosened and re-tightened to 10 in/lbs. See attached pic.
Then the pinch bolt is done up to 30 ft/lbs.
You might want to remove the yolk and check the bearings and seals first.
Mike

Thanks Mike, I plan on doing that today. There is a lot of grease that came out while it was loose, so I will check the seals.

Thanks again.