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Sears/Eska 7.5hp crankshaft seal

I wanted to share a success story for anyone here who might need this information. I have a 217.585930 Gamefisher, 7.5hp, and it had a blown lower crankshaft seal. The pics show the condition of the destroyed seal. Sears, Brix, and CPC all list this lower seal (p/n 510318) as being no longer available. After some extensive research with a local part supplier in my area, Applied Industrial Products, I found that SKF seal #6608 is the exact size (17mm X 27mm X 7mm) as the original 510318 seal. Also, my crankshaft was badly scored and pitted, so before installing the new lower crankshaft seal, I installed a SKF 99068 Speedi-Sleeve over the worn crank, using a thin coating of Loctite marine epoxy under the Speedi-Sleeve. Problem solved. The pics show the fix.

On these forums, there have been some who question the integrity of these older Sears/Eska engines. After completely disassembling mine, I will say that the Tecumseh powerhead is every bit as robust inside as an equivalently sized OMC engine. These Sears/Eska engines are well made, and with a little ingenuity from outside part sources, it's possible to keep them running a long time.
 

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Tommy,

Thanks for posting that information. We get a lot of calls for parts and assistance with Gamfisher, Sears, Eska and usually can't help much.

Posts like yours should be a good resource for owners looking for hard to find information on these motors.
 
Andrew,

Thanks for your kind message. I feel it's good that we all share our bits of individual knowledge/experiences that we've gained with our outboard engines. Eska engines seem to require an extra amount of ingenuity since there aren't lots of parts available for them, so I'm hopeful that others can use this crankshaft seal replacement information I was able to come up with.

-Tom
 
Thanks for the info. My gamefisher uses the same lower crankshaft seal. I also suspect my seal might be bad. Can you describe the symptoms that you experienced before you found the bad seal please? Also, where did you find that crazy socket that you need to remove the powerhead from the column/vertical?
 
Thanks for the info. My gamefisher uses the same lower crankshaft seal. I also suspect my seal might be bad. Can you describe the symptoms that you experienced before you found the bad seal please? Also, where did you find that crazy socket that you need to remove the powerhead from the column/vertical?

The symptoms on my engine were that after many pulls, the engine would fire once each pull but would never start. There was apparently just enough fuel/air mix getting into the cylinder for one firing, as I doubt the reed valve was opening enough to allow the necessary amount of fuel/air mix to get sucked into the crankcase thanks to the vacuum leak caused by the blown seal.

I used a 12-point box end wrench (1/4", I think) to get those strange fasteners out that hold the powerhead onto the column. It took a while, but when I got them out, I replaced them with stainless steel socket head cap screws. These work much better, because you can get at them with the kind of allen wrench adapter that goes into a rachet wrench, using an extender.

Good luck with yours, if you end up needing further advice, let me know.

-Tom
 
If your Eska Ted Williams engine model is pre 640-07 you may not be able to use tommys method or seal, the seal used on these were much smaller and all rubber, sears will send you the wrong seal,,,discount will hold you hostage for it but certified parts has them for about $3 check your part numbers and seal diameter before you wast you$$, Tecumseh made several changes to the AV 817 uni block at model no 640-07
 
whats the use of posting something repetitive in bad polish? for those who can't use a translator the post above says

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and basically kills the thread
 
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