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Purging the Coolant System After Riser Replacement

C

Conundrum

New member
Hello again. I have 97 454 XLI's, and am about to replace the OSCO 9015's today with the OEM Crusader Barr Lower profile risers. 1st) I have been spraying the nuts for the last week hopefully they will remove easily. If the risers are hard to remove is it right that I read I should use a 30lb BFH? Would that crack the manifolds? 2nd) What type of gasket sealant does anyone recommend and finally 3rd) I have a rear mounted HEX the only thermostat is in the house leading into the HEX. How do I purge "Burp" the system so there are no air pockets in the coolant system? Thanks Again for all your help.
 
Penetrating oils are good when they can penentrate.... sometimes this can take weeks to get in where it needs to be!
Try warming the engine up before trying to crack the bolts loose. Heat is always your friend when attempting to remove bolts/nuts that may be corroded/rusted, IMO. Apply external heat if that is not an option!

I assume that this is a Full Closed Cooling system and this is your concern about purging?
You may want to see that your engine cooling thermostat has a small bleed hole in it. They are different with each manufacturer.

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The BFH is usually required for the older "log" style hardware. You have the newer stuff and it should part with a few whacks from a dead blow hammer.

A few posters have had good luck with a very thin coat of hi temp RTV on the gaskets though I'm thinking it is for the round ones used on the older log style parts.

Don't forget to drain the manifolds before disassembly and to use the correct gasket and block off plate stackup.
 
The newer systems should be pretty much self purging.

It is covered in the owner's book. you can get an early 2000 vintage copy at crusader's www site. I'm pretty sure that procedure hasn't changed. idle @ 1000 rpms until the level stops dropping then cap it off going on memory.

then keep an eye on the degas bottle afterwards. fill it to the cold fill line.
 
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