Logo

NEED 3.0 Mercruiser Ignition HELP!!!!!!

shawshank95

New member
I have a 3.0 mercruiser with est ignition and have no spark. I have replaced the ignition coil, ignition module, cap, rotor and plugs. I have checked power to everything including the pick up and everything reads good. I have a wire harness that goes between the ignition coil and the ignition module that has a resistor inline. Can anyone tell me the correct size of the resistor in that harness? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have working on this issue for 2 weeks now.
 
"...wire harness that goes between the ignition coil and the ignition module that has a resistor inline."

What year? I seem to remember that the harness was the problem for somebody else. Ohm out each wire while performing a wiggle test. The plug pins were the problem. Are you sure it's not a diode? If it is, it will have a single band on one end or an arrowhead on it. What are the resistor color bands? Google the resistor color bands; can't remember the rhyme for the color bands from basic electronics.
 
The color code is a weird one. It is silver, red, red, brown, gold. I am pretty sure it is a resistor because there is no arrow on it anywhere. Have tried google for help with the resistor but couldn't find anything. I have done an ohm test on the wires and it is reading the same both ways. i guess it could be a connector issue but seems to be the resistor. I was just going to replace the resistor because it is def cheaper than buying the cable harness. It is cable harness #19 on most of the parts diagrams. BT Doctur i have gone through all of those instructions and have tried all those tests too. nothing working there.
 
Last edited:
I have a couple of questions first.

How do you know you have no spark?

How did you check it?

On these ignitions the spark only shows on a small gap not like most other ignitions with a 1/2 inch blue spark jump. You should only use a spark plug with the threads grounded to see if there is a spark.

Also how are the plug wires?

I do not believe there is a rsistor in the wire harness.......this is a HEI type ignition so a full 12 volts is used.

Also have you looked at the shift interuptor switch to see if it is working/activated/shorted. This will kill the ignition........
 
i stayed away cause maybe you won't like what i have to say. But here goes .

Bypass with a jumper straight from the pos, on the battery to the coil take everything out of the equation. See if it runs then.

You will have it pretty much narrowed down the problem.

Few other things, boat for sure is in neutral, kill switch in, key switch good. Fuse good no fuse what else is there ?

And your going to give a quick reply yea checked it all, and i will quick reply sure you did, but you still have the problem.

Jump it narrow it down.
 
guy

where did you get that info??? Is it for that ignition??

I understand resistor color coding so that is not my question
 
I see he says he found a resistor,

I was confused on that.

I do not remember or have ever seen a resistor in line in a electronic ignition especially one with a color code......

I have not looked at a specific schematic so I do not know for sure......
 
I have torn apart the harness and there is a resistor inline. The color code is a wide silver band, red, red, brown, gold. I know that the tolerance is silver and gold but not sure why there is a wide silver on one end and a gold on the other end. also to answer some of the questions asked yes i have checked the spark by taking the plug out and grounding it and also using a timing light. The neutral switch and kill switch are good. have checked all the connections. used a meter to check for power everywhere. checked the key switch and the kill switch. I have 12v on the purple wire at the ignition coil in run position and in start position. The boat is a 2000 wellcraft 175ss. The only things in the whole system is ignition coil(replaced) ignition module(replaced) distributor(checked good) cap(replaced) rotor(replaced) plugs and plug wires(replaced) and this harness between the ignition coil and module. Like i said there is a resistor or something inline of that harness because i took and apart and am visually looking at it. I have now ordered the harness to see if that fixes the problem. will post and let you know. I was trying to figure out the resistor because it would be a lot cheaper to replace that then the whole harness.
 
What did the resistor measure in ohms? The large silver band is just the resistor coating. The last band in gold is the tolerance.

Kghost: The last diagram I saw showed a diode in the circuit. It was earlier than 2000.
 
Sounds like it could be an old style military grade molded choke (coil). If it has zero resistance across its leads, it is a 2000 uH 5% choke. Seems odd to have it in an unshielded harness though.

Did you check all the leads in the existing harness for continuity through the connector leads?

Does the rotor spin when you crank the engine?
 
Last edited:
"... I have checked power to everything including the pick up."

How did you check it? With engine cranking it should induce a measureable voltage. W/o it the module won't tell the coil to fire.
 
it is a choke...shows up as "filter" in the attachment.

likely to be burn and not passing 12V to the distributor.

cut it out, and join the two ends together, and then seal the connection against moisture.

Cancel the harness order; if the vendor won't, you'll have a spare.

Only "drawback" to this fix is there may be some additional ignition noise in the radio.
 

Attachments

  • 3.0 with EST.pdf
    30.3 KB · Views: 637
Just to let everyone know. I got the new harness in and measured the resistance in the new harness and it measures 5.9 ohm from the coil to the ignition module and reads 6.8 the other way. It is wierd to me but it fixed the problem. Boat is running strong again and been out all weekend. Thanks for everyones help. :D
 
I am confused here.....

What were your ohm reradings before you swapped the cable harness??

This is unusual to me......Good fix but unusual!!

More info if you could......
 
I think it was one of the pins must have been bad, sometimes the connection is lost at the end where the wire meets the pin.

Hard to find cause it turned green under the coating.
 
Back
Top