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6.0 Oil Level and Oil pressure

M

mcaston

New member
Hello All,

My question concerns checking oil. I'm a bit puzzled by readings.
If I check the engine after it's been cold, the level appears around 2" above full line.
If I then clean dipstick and insert back into tube, the level reads between add and full.

Also, What is the normal operating oil pressure range for the engine
@ 3600 rpm's?


Thanks
Mark
 
Sounds like a good question for someone representing the OEM on this.

Here's my uneducated take on this:
Oil pan level is at it's highest after the engine has been at rest. All suspended oil should have returned to the oil pan by then.
Odd that your reading is not consistant.

As for oil pressure... most all engine oil pumps incoporate a by-pass valve (of one sort or another), designed to control pressure.
Volume, to a degree, is controlled by rpm..... but pressure should remain fairly consistant above low rpm, minus different viscosities due to different operating oil temperatures.

Again, sounds like a good question for someone representing the OEM. :)
 
mcaston said:
Thanks for the reply. I'm new to the board. Do the OEM representatives check the boards?
Click to expand...
I doubt it!

Give a factory rep, or a dealer for this particular engine, a phone call.

BTW, your best dip stick reading is going to be a fresh one shortly after the engine has come to rest, yet after the oil has returned to the oil pan.
Stick wiped clean, inserted, pulled and read.

Now, unless you have "inverted" remote oil filters, this should be accurate.
If they are inverted, you have three issues, IMO:

One, what a mess when changing filters if they do not incorporate the back flow prevention. Even if....., they can be messy.

Two, you are starting the engine up each and every time only to prime a filter prior to the rotating assembly receiving oil pressure.:mad: (based on your higher dip stick reading after the engine has been at rest, this would appear to be so.... NOT GOOD!)

Three, you have no good means of pre-filling/priming this type of filter when changing them.

The last two would be enough for me to change this.... not that I like #1 either!

But, of course this is all an assumption at this time. :rolleyes:
And.... none of this explains why the reading is between Add/Full again after wiping the stick and after sitting for a while.
That I can't explain.

Maybe others have a suggestion or two.

Post back if you have inverted remote oil filters!


.
 
Last edited:
mcaston said:
If I check the engine after it's been cold, the level appears around 2" above full line.
If I then clean dipstick and insert back into tube, the level reads between add and full.
Click to expand...

Is this boat at dock? As in, it rocks? I think your lower reading is the correct one.
 
Yes the boat is docked.

I performed following test.

1. Checked cold, dip stick showed oil way up around 3" above full line.
2. Cleaned stick and re-inserted, level = full.
3. Ran motor until hot, waited five minutes, cleaned, re-inserted, level = full.
4. Removed 1 quart of oil. Cleaned stick, level = add.

Seems like lower reading is correct??
 
mcaston said:
Seems like lower reading is correct??
Click to expand...

If you mean that the "lower reading" is the one after the stick is wiped clean...... then I'd also say YES...... I think you're good to go!

It is odd that you are getting this high reading.... and not just a wee bit high..... we're talking quite a bit high! Hmmmm.
I wonder if there is returning oil that is dumping directly on the dip stick causing you to think that the stick is actually taking a submerged reading?

If you are not getting foamy oil from windage or crankshaft interferance.... (as in oil level too high)...., go have fun and enjoy the boat! :D
 
Well, this would be a worst case scenario if you did actually have too much oil in the oil pan. I don't think you do, but this will cause trouble in some engines.
The SBC with the standard oil pan is one of them.
If we have crankshaft interferrence with the oil, the crankshaft whips the oil causing it to foam up. When it does, we loose oil pressure.
I've never experienced it.... but have talked to several who have.
 
Your spec oil pressure is 25-80 PSI @ 2000 rpm. pretty sure you have oil pressure monitored by the computer. You normally won't get any fuel delivered if it is inadequate.

Could just be a design artifact due to the drain paths. If it is full when you check it "by the book", it isn't consuming a lot, and the pressure is fine, you don't have any issues.
 
Hi makomark,

Pressure is 40 psi when at idle. @ 3600 rpm's it runs a needles width above 60 psi.

"By the book" meaning run to operating temp, shut down, wait 5 minutes, clean and check.

I'm, also going to run this by Trans Pacific Distribtors in CA. I bought the motor from
them a few years back.
I'll post back any thoughts they might have.

My concern was I mistakenly put too much oil in crankcase.
I changed the oil back in the fall on the hard. Put in as much as I removed. Around 5 quarts.

Thanks for the reply.

Mark
 
I have 2007, 6.0 engines. Oil pressure can run between 25-80, depending on rpm's. I have to dip the stick several times and then take 2 out of three readings to find the true measurement. I think it's the residue oil in the dip stick tube giving bad readings. I have to wipe the stick several times to make sure it is dry then in/out quick to get a good reading.

How do you like the 6.0 Crusaders? They run at a high RPM. I like to cruise at 3800 rpm. Full open it hits 5000 rpm! Keep in touch, we can share war stories about our engines. John

PS Check the gap on your plugs!!! should be .060. The factory sends them out gapped at .042. I re-gapped them and it made a big difference.
 
Hi JKS11,

Yeah it's a bit difficult to get a good reading.
I have a single in a Down Easter. Re-powered a few years ago. Got a great deal on a new 2004.
I replaced a 20 year old Chylser 360. Big difference.
The 6.0 breaths quite heavy. Lot's of air going in and out.

I usually run mine at 35-3600 rpm's and cruise @ 15 knots. I thought any more would be pushing it. Glad to see they can be run a little harder.
WOT for me is 5200, however my boat does not like to be run much more then 16 knots. Hull not designed for that kind of speed.

Thanks for advise on spark plug gap.
What difference did you notice?

Pics of my boat:
http://picasaweb.google.com/reef58/412010#


Thanks
Mark
 
Very nice boat, Mark. All of the interior details of an older classic wood hull boat, yet with the lower maintenance of a fiberglass hull. Excellent! :)

Your WOT RPM would appear to be high! What are OEM specs for this?

.
 
Hi Ricardo,

Thanks for the compliment. She's a 1988 Cape Dory 28. She was quite a mess when I got her.
A few shots of interior restoration:
http://picasaweb.google.com/reef58/Boat#


Engine RPM chart for 6.0

Minimum Full Load: 4800 rpm
Preferred: 5200 rpm
Maximum: 5300 rpm

Seems I'm at preferred.

Would increasing pitch, lowering RPM change my cruising performance? I rarely run her more than 3600 rpm's

Mark
 
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