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1st time boat owner, HELP PLEASE!

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New member
First off, thank you all for any help you can provide....I have several questions:
I just purchased an old 1972 fiberglass boat at an auction for $60.00 with a 15 hp Johnson motor. The last registration sticker on it is 10 years old. I don't know how to tell if the motor is froze up or not, but the prop turns and the rope pulls out. The model number is J15RLCCS.
1) What year is the motor?
2) Is it a 2-stroke and what would the mixture ratio be?
3) Do I need a special 2-stroke oil or can I use any?
4) Can I use a metal trash can full of water to test run it?
5) What steps are needed to prep this thing to run after 10 years? I know NOTHING about how to dismantle it to oil it or whatever is needed.

Would it be easier to just have a mechanic service it or are there some online manuals I could search? Once again, thanks for your help! I tried to attatch a picture but it won't let me......
 
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If the prop is turning and the recoil works likely the motor is not frozen. Put the motor in gear and see if the prop turns when pulling the recoil. Definitely not seized up if the prop turns. Use TCW-3 for oil at 50:1. Do not use the oil you would use in your grass trimmer. And don't use the TCW-3 in the trimmer. Different levels of additives for the water cooled vs. air cooled motors. Trash can is fine for test run AT IDLE provided that you can get the lower unit in far enough to submerse the water pump. Also DO NOT run the motor at WOT in the can as it cannot provide enough thrust to the prop for proper carb setting and likely will not get enough water into the system for good cooling. New enough motor that most marinas will still service it. If you want to do the work your self you can get a manual here. J=Johnson 15 HP R-rope start, L-long shaft (20") CC = 88 model year. The S could mean several things but don't think it is the Sail model. May be a mid year change. Sail model has some special features which may be just the color (shown as white color from 99) or a longer tiller arm but should have been listed before the model year. As in J15RSLCC or J15RLSCC. Get a manual if you want to try maintenance for yourself. After 10 years likely needs plugs, carb kit, lower unit seals, compression check (do first as it would indicate if the motor is worth servicing further). Compression less than 90 or more than 10% difference between cylinders usually means tear down of motor for rebuild. Check for spark. Lack of spark could be bad plugs or bad power pack or bad sensor.
 
Ignore the "S" on the end of the model number .. it does just denote a part year change or a production suffix, not a sail version.

For advice on dealing with a motor that has been unused for several years or is simply new to you with unknown service history see HERE

and for practically everything you'll need to know about 15 hp models see HERE
 
mnobfan said:
If the prop is turning and the recoil works likely the motor is not frozen. Put the motor in gear and see if the prop turns when pulling the recoil. Definitely not seized up if the prop turns. Use TCW-3 for oil at 50:1. Do not use the oil you would use in your grass trimmer. And don't use the TCW-3 in the trimmer. Different levels of additives for the water cooled vs. air cooled motors. Trash can is fine for test run AT IDLE provided that you can get the lower unit in far enough to submerse the water pump. Also DO NOT run the motor at WOT in the can as it cannot provide enough thrust to the prop for proper carb setting and likely will not get enough water into the system for good cooling. New enough motor that most marinas will still service it. If you want to do the work your self you can get a manual here. J=Johnson 15 HP R-rope start, L-long shaft (20") CC = 88 model year. The S could mean several things but don't think it is the Sail model. May be a mid year change. Sail model has some special features which may be just the color (shown as white color from 99) or a longer tiller arm but should have been listed before the model year. As in J15RSLCC or J15RLSCC. Get a manual if you want to try maintenance for yourself. After 10 years likely needs plugs, carb kit, lower unit seals, compression check (do first as it would indicate if the motor is worth servicing further). Compression less than 90 or more than 10% difference between cylinders usually means tear down of motor for rebuild. Check for spark. Lack of spark could be bad plugs or bad power pack or bad sensor.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I'm not familiar with the terminology.....by "in gear", I assume push the throttle control forward then test for prop spin? And what is WOT?
 
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