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225 looses power while accelerating

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wchetwode

Member
My engine accelerates up to 2500rpm then as I push the throttle further forward the power dies until I push much harder on the throttle then it seems to be fine up to WOT. Does anybody have any ideas?

I have run a diagnostic and the only fault is the O2 sensor which is being replaced anyway.
 
Thanks for that changed the filter was very dark and old. Also noticed after running up with the cowling off that fuel is leaking from the pipe that comes out of the bottom of the high pressure filter housing. Could this affect the engines performance? The pipe going downwards for the filter in the pic.photo.jpg Hope the photo worked haven't done it before. Thanks
 
Any leak in the high pressure system can affect performance. By how much, it is hard to say.

Are sure that the fuel is not coming from the cover to the high pressure filter? If you have just changed it, you may have pinched the o ring on the cover when you reinstalled it. It is good practice to change the o ring when you are changing the filter. The old o ring tends to get slightly swollen from the fuel and it tends to get cut on the sharp edges when it is reinstalled.

It is easy to check without running the engine. While you are watching the area of the leak, have someone turn the key switch to on (do not start the engine) for two seconds. Have them do it two or three times. Each time they do it, the high pressure fuel pump builds up pressure in the system. It will be very apparent where the leak is coming from, since the engine is not running and bouncing around.

Mike
 
The problem has returned. Have replaced the high pressure filter with a new one. Its get to 2300 rpm then you push the throttle and no more power is felt until it is quite hard down!! Plus hole shot cannot even get me on the plane loaded with 6 people. Used to have a 150 that would do better. Any more ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 
Did you completely drain the VST when you changed the HP filter? If not, do so.

It's also possible that you have a partially blocked fuel tank breather tube or a partially blocked pick-up tube in your fuel tank.

When it starts to bog down open your fuel tank filler cap. If improvement, then you have a blockage in the tank's breather tube. Mud dabbers love those things for nests.

While running, see if pump up bulb is flattened. If so then the screen on the end of the pick up tube in the tank is likely clogged. Remove assembly from tank and clean or replace.
 
I drained the VST no Water in there. Have tried taking fuel cap off doesn't seem to make any difference. The top end is also still down on power as I am only getting 42 knots. I was getting 41knots with a honda 150 last year on same boat?? I am using a 21' prop. I have recently replaced the 02 sensor and they gave me a new ECU with that :). Any other ideas?? I haven't got a prima bulb so can't do that test. Should I plug a portable tank in and see if that makes a difference?
 
Okay - let's us know if the primer bulb change out helps, but it doesn't sound like that's your problem.

Yes, try new gas and new pump up bulb in a portable tank. It's always good to have one around anyway for testing.

I assume you mean a 21" PITCH on your prop - you can't put a 21" diameter prop on a 225. Not sure what size boat, beam and weight you have, but a 21" pitch sounds pretty steep for most applications, unless you have a really small/light boat. I have a 25 ft C-Hawk with a 9'6" beam. Loaded it weighs about 5500 lbs. On my old Johnson 200 Sea Pro, the best prop was a 15 X 15. With the Honda 225 the best prop seems to be a 14.25 X 15. I get right at 40 mph at 6000 rpm on flat water.

You likely need to experiment with different prop sizes and pitches. If you have a dealer nearby, they often have a bunch of used props laying around. Ask to borrow a couple of different sizes and pitches and test them. The important thing is to make sure your WOT is right around 6000 RPM.

But, having said all of that, no matter what prop you have, you should not be bogging down at mid-range. From your description, it sounds like your V-Tec is not kicking in properly, but that should give a fault code. However, before going down that path. Play with some prop changes.
 
The prop is 21 PITCH and I have a Honda 19 Pitch that came with my 150HP. The 19 only accelerates a tiny bit quicker with that on wot rpm at 5300. I think my V-tec has been sticking before would that make a difference the whole way through the range can I take a look at it or do I need Honda engineer to do it?. The boat is a 6.5m rib that weighs with engine 1200 KG. It should do about 47 knots!! At moment only getting 42 with 1 person and no gear onboard:(
 
That's a lighter boat than I assumed, so yes, a 21" pitch should work fine on your RIB, at least as a starting point.

If your VTEC is sticking, it should be throwing off a code on your malfunction indicator light (MIL) when you short the service indicator on the 4-prong service check connector. Do you know how to pull those codes? If so, a faulty VTEC solenoid will throw off a "21" code - two blinks followed by 1 blink.

As a quick test, you can track down the VTEC solenoid connector which sits just to the left of the ECM box (one wire), check that it is clean and connected properly, and measure resistence between the solonoid terminal and ground. The shop manual says it should be between 12 and 18 ohms. In another area of the shop manual it says the resistence should be between 14.25 and 15.75 ohms - go figure. If it is not, replace the solenoid valve.

Another thought while you have your ohm meter out is to check your intake air bypass (IAB) control solenoid. That's a 2-prong connector on the top back of your engine, just above the air intake, to the right side. The resistence between the prongs of the solonoid should be 37-44 ohms.

If that does not address the problem, and you are getting no fault codes, then I suggest you get the motor to a Honda Dealer and have them hook up their HDS for a full readout.

Hope this helps.
 
Are you using an Ethanol based fuel? Do you have an aluminum tank? There have been lots of reports of the BF225 high pressure system being contaminated from a white powdery residue caused by the ethanol enriched fuels interaction with the aluminum fuel tank. My guess is your engine is a 2003.
 
Honda dealer has serviced the motor and pulled out the VST tank and high pressure fuel pump and cleaned the gauze in there but it was immaculate. No faults coming up on the computer. Also changed the low pressure fuel pump. VTEC is also working. Engine still not working properly the dealer described it is gutless!!!. The dealer is thinking next option is changing the power head with another one to see if that works.
 
Agreed - that dealer has not executed a thorough diagnostic analysis. "Gutless" is not an appropriate diagnosis. Ask for the regional rep to get involved at this point.
 
The dealer dealt with a lot the race engines in the UK series so has good knowledge of these motors. They have had one other do this before two years ago.
 
If the knock sensor is faulty it would throuw off a "23" code on the MIL and the HDS would surely detect a fault in the knock sensor. In fact, if any of the sensor components were bad the HDS would detect that and give the proper read out unless the ECM itself is faulty.

Has your dealer tried a different ECM? They should.

Reviwing the post, I still think you have a fuel feed problem, UNLESS the ECM is faulty.
 
This sounds like it could be a Throttle Postion Sensor problem. They are notorious for going bad and not setting codes.

The computer only looks at voltage low and voltage peak to flag an "out of range" code.

Ask your dealer if he has done a "sweep" check of the TPS and see what he says.
Just my $0.02 worth.
 
Let me follow up on the reply to JGMO, which got me thinking some more on this issue. Have to checked your throttle cable set up? It is possible that one of the throttle cables running from the pully at the throttle linkage to the pully on the top of the engine is damaged, kinked, misaligned, or badly out of adjustment. You maintenance manual will show you how to check the alignment. Sometimes the retaining/adjustment nut will come loose and cause the problems you describe.
 
Thanks guys. I have two things to try. Firstly there is a resistor in-between the Knock sensor and the ECU which is put there for racing so that when it over evs it doesn't cut out. We are going to by pass it This is going to be tried first.

Secondly I have got hold of a working Throttle position sensor to try if the Knock idea doesn't work. Watch this space.....
 
Sounds like you are trying everything else so I will tell you what happened to mine last year. I have a 06 bf135 had same symptoms. Honda rep finaly got involved and discovered clip on bottom of crank shft had come off. This allowed crank to move up on acceleration. Since the throttle position sensor works off flywheel on top of engine it would not get correct reading. Said they never saw this before and replaced entire powerhead. Just a thought.
 
Changed the TPS today and it sorted the problem. However when we changed the sensor part which has the throttle pulley on it we checked whether the throttle was fully open when pushed to WOT at the control end at it was not.....? It now revs to 5900 which is better than 5100!!! And no power loss while accelerating.:)
 
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