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Restoring AQ120/200

T

tdrudd87

Member
Hello everyone,

Got some great advice last year, and I'm back! I'm going thru rebuilding my AQ120/200 with a B18 that is now a B20.


Is there a source for brass freeze plugs for this engine? If not, are standard ones OK in freshwater?

I removed a "C" gring cam. Is this an acceptable replacement? Is the A or D grind better?

Two of the springs in the drive damper plate are loose. Is there a source for a replacement? I can get a pic this weekend.

I'm sure more things will pop up as I put more back together. Thanks in advance!
Terry
 
Can you post the year/model for both the engine and drive?

There was a difference in the drive couplers on the earlier engines re; the PDS splines. Later ones will use the B/W spline.

A loose spring is not necessarily a deal breaker...... but you will want to examine it for any other wear/damage.... likely it is OK, since these are typically over-built for these engines.

Eduardo is your man for your engine questions, re; camshaft selection, etc.

.
 
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If you talk about a OHV engine, then you need a "P" camshaft, Volvo part 121867. These cams sell in North America for around $1,000 (ouch!!), but there is a site in Europe named SKANDIX.de that advertises that camshaft for 139 Euro + freight.

I think that standard freeze plugs will work well in fresh water. However, you can get stainless and galvanized plugs as well. Check attachment.
 

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Sorry, it is a 1966-1968. My best guess is 1967-1968 based on pictures I have found of the boat it is in, a 16' Silverline Rambler. Came with a OHV B18. Had severe cylinder wall pitting, its is now overbored to 2.0L/B20 specs. Runs a 200C outdrive.

Ric, On the damper plate, it was rusty, but was able to be cleaned up with a wire wheel. Nothing seems bent or missing, just pitted and the two loose springs. It is triangular if that helps ID it. How can I measure to be sure? I still have the PDS out, will be reassembling the bellhousing as the next step.

El, I will be looking to the P cam. Do you suspect the C grind I removed was a ill-advised replacement? The C was suppopsedly the "hot" factory grind during the B18 period. D was for FI cars, has higher lift with similar duration.


Thank you both for your help!
Terry
 
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tdrudd87 said:
................
  1. Runs a 200C outdrive.
  2. Ric, On the damper plate, it was rusty, but was able to be cleaned up with a wire wheel. Nothing seems bent or missing, just pitted and the two loose springs. It is triangular if that helps ID it. How can I measure to be sure? I still have the PDS out, will be reassembling the bellhousing as the next step.
Thank you both for your help!
Terry
Click to expand...

  1. She's an old one.... but should still be good, but seals and Orings would be a advisible.
  2. I presume that this means a new bearing/seals???? :) This is a very inexpensive bearing..... and can be purchased from a bearing supplier.
As for the drive coupler..... the loose springs will be held centrifugally once running.... your call!
Be sure to grease the pilot nose and splines.
 
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Ric, absolutly new parts. Got my bearing from McMaster a few weeks back, and seals from this site. What do the springs do? I don't mind putting it back if it will run good with them loose, but want to be sure.

El, thanks again, time to go learn more!

Thanks,
Terry
 
Terry, If you need an early style drive plate, very corse splines, I've got a couple of very good ones. You can have one REAL cheap if you would like to go that route and make sure those springs don't come out and get tangled with your bendex gear on the starter.
Gary@ Gary's Marine
 
Gary,

If you could get me a spline count/approx diameter I would probably take you up on that. Maybe a PDS if you have some really good ones as well. Mine is straight, but has a touch of pitting that MAY be in a seal area, haven't checked yet.

If you can get me a bit more info I'll check mine this weekend.

Thanks!
Terry
 
Hey guys, I'm back with more questions.


What is the P/N for the big rubber donuts that seal the clamping ring on the bellhousing to the shield? This is on the 200 series outdrive.

What is the P/N for the seal that goes in the channel on the shield, to seel the shield to the transom face?

Is there a exhaust bellows for the 200 series drive that incorporates a flapper?

Thanks again all for the wealth of information here!
Terry
 
Not sure why, but I received an email notification as though I had a PM from you..... went to look, and nothing is there.
Since I did not know it was related to this thread, here's what I had typed, ready to PM to you:

Terry, be glad to help you. You did not send an email address, so I am sending this via PM.

First, let's identify a 200 series.
There is a 200, 250, 270 and 275. Is your drive one of these?
BTW, these are designated by engine, not necessarily the drive.
(I.E., AQ 260A 280....... meaning AQ 260 engine w/ the 280 out drive.)

As for the parts and p/n's, I could look each one up for you, but you may as well do your own homework here, and be better educated...... Yes/No?

Here are some links to both MarinePartsEurope.com and DougRussel.com

http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-schematics-MarineGasolineEngines.aspx

http://dougrussell.com/partscatalog/volvo_omc/index.cfm?fuseaction=group&type=volvo&group=

Find your model number, click on, and follow the links, and you will be able to view all parts and p/n's.
There are some errors in several of the schematics that are shown. . This mostly pertains to the early V-8 transom shield and exhaust Y-pipe.... so double check when ordering any of these parts!
The rope gasket and large rubber cushion rings are same for many models.
The rope gaskets (if they still sit "proud" of the groove), can often be re-used with a sealant on either side of them!
The FWD-most rubber cushion/rubber ring, is a must to replace. This is the one that does the sealing, and keeps the water out.

Then post a question in the Volvo Penta section if you need further clarification.
Be sure that your thread title is descriptive and matches the question so that anyone who has experience can chime in.
Sound fair?

Rick
 
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Thanks Rick,

I have gone thru those parts manuals, as well as VP's offcial online store. The problem is with finding parts for the 200 outdrive. It seems that the AQ120/200 is just before anything that is available, ie. Aq130 with 250-270+ drives.

I was hoping some of you guys in the trade had older manuals calling out these parts?

Thanks,
Terry
 
Terry, I don't know what type of problems you are having with this, but if major, you may be better off to replace this with let's say a 250 drive and related parts.
For this engine, these are very cheap in my neck of the woods. They rarely wear out, so the demand is very low.
The one thing that I'm not 100% certain on (and Eduardo would know this) would be if the later flywheel covers will work with your older engine..... I believe that they will.
The rest would be a pc of cake!
.
 
Rick,

I am hoping to keep the 200 drive for now, it seems to turn nice and smooth and shift properly, all by hand at least. My only issue so far has been finding these small maintenance parts. Any chance you could look the donuts and bellows up and see what models it would interchange with? I would really appreciate it!

As far as swapping something else back there, I would have no problem with that if this drive ever gives up. As far as I know, the B18/B20 mates just fine to the later OHC 2.1 and 2.3 housings, like you said. Just trying to avoid that expense this year:)

Thanks!,
Terry
 
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