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2001 Volvo Penta GL 5.0 won't start

I have not replaced the ignition module, just the coil. But I don't think the coil is bad because I'm still having the same problem. It bounced around a little but it was around 12v while cranking. I have been reviewing the Seloc but I'm confused by step 4 of the primary voltage test. Everything else I think I have done.
 
For step 4, keep the - of your volt meter lead connected to ground, then connect the + of the volt meter to the - side of the coil. If you get 4-8 V reading, that means the primary of the coil is working but the coil discharge has not been triggered by the distributor grounding the coil. Then, you remove the distributor middle ignition lead and connect it to ground while leaving the other side still attached to the middle of the coil. Then, you use a small flat screwdriver and place the tip in front of the sensor face in the distributor, and that will have the same effect as when one of the rotor teeth passes in fron of the sensor: it will be detected by the sensor and make the transistor conductive. This will ground the - of the coil, triggering its discharge. If that happens, then the meter should read 12V+ on the (-) of the coil.

The pictures at the bottom of the Seloc 10-46 page explain the process.

This procedure is identical as the one explained in the OEM.
 
I'm supposed to get 4-8 v from the negative lead of the coil? On the meter I'm getting 12v from both sides of the coil. That's made me confused, I was getting 12+v from the positive and the negative side, it doesn't drop down to 4-8v on the negative side of the coil.
 
I'm supposed to get 4-8 v from the negative lead of the coil? On the meter I'm getting 12v from both sides of the coil. That's made me confused, I was getting 12+v from the positive and the negative side, it doesn't drop down to 4-8v on the negative side of the coil.

Did you position the trigger wheel in the distributor so that the sensor is between two teeth?
 
I think so, I tried this test a half dozen times and I keep bumping the motor and I always get 12+ volts. Not sure exactly where the teeth need to be in between but I think it is.
 
If one of the teeth is too close to the sensor, it will trigger the coil discharge and you will get 12V on the - side. This is why the procedure requires you to ensure that there is no tooth lined up with the front of the sensor.
 
Assuming i have the distributor in the right spot what would cause the negative side to read 12+ volts?

Possibly an open circuit between the coil and the distributor. Have you checked if either the purple or the grey wires between the distributor and the coil are broken?
 
The tooth that is right by the screw is the one that is in the fire position? I haven't checked for broken wires but by visual check they look fine. I will take another look at them? COuld a bad ignition module cause this problem?
 
No, the other tooth: the one closest to the sensor.

Wires may look look fine, but it is not looks what you are looking for: you are interested in verifying wire continuity. Please use an ohm meter.

Yes, a bad sensor could cause the coil not to discharge. However, I have already told you that I find it strange that you would go through two modules in no time, as these modules normally don't break. I also suggested that you remove the distributor and take it to a shop where it can be tested, which is probably the best you can do at this stage.
 
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As I said before I have never replaced an ignition module in this motor, I replaced a coil last week but never an ignition module, it's the original. I'm a little concerned about removing the distributor, I would rather exhaust all diagnostics with the distirbutor in the engine for fear of not putting it back in properly. I have done it on plenty of Fords but never a Chevy.
 
If you have removed distributors from Fords, you should not have a problem removing them from a Chevy: one is at the front, the other is at the back, but installation and setting are virtually identical.
 
I attached a picture of the way the distributor is when I tested and got 12+ volts. DId I do it right?
 

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Not sure why or how to fix the size of the picture. I'm going to purchase a ignition module tomorrow at the Marina. Thanks for all the advice and help. I will keep you posted. I'm a little weiry about taking the distributor out so that will be the last step if this doesn't work or I'm bringing the whole boat to the Marina.
 
Thanks for the help. I replaced the ignition module last THursday and the motor started right up. I took it out on Sunday filled the tank with gas and headed to the lake. Keep in mind I haven't put any gas in it since May 2009. Put the boat in the water and it ran great for about a half hour and all of a sudden it started sputtering a little. So I brought it back to the dock. Let it run last night at an idle for a half hour and it stays running but it's sputtering. I was inspecting all the wires and everything looks ok. I'm afraid I have some bad gas, the boat took 33 gallons of 35 gallons so there was a few gallons left from May 09. Planning on changing the fuel filter and adding some water seperator to the tank. Does it sound like I'm on the right track.
 
If you are going to work on the fuel system, you may also want to check that the anti-syphon valve on the fuel pick-up line is not stuck. You may also want to clean the strainer in the carburetor and make sure the carb is not gummed-up or has water in it.
 
OK, I will look at those items as well. I was going to add some water remover to the tank tonight and visually double check everything.
 
Your engine should have a water separating fuel filter, so you should not need to add water remover to the fuel. Just make sure the filter is not full of water.
 
It does have a water separating filter and I purchased one and will replace this week. Does it filter out all the water out of the fuel on the way to the carb? Do you think I have a different problem?
 
It filters virtually all the water until it becomes full. Then, the excess of water will reach the carb where some may settle...until there is too much water and then it reaches the engine.
 
I replaced the water seperating filter and took the boat for a ride on Friday night. It ran great for about a half hour or so across the lake and back and then it started sputtering a little when I got back to the dock. I took it out yesterday and the same thing, it ran great for about a half hour or so and then when I got back to the dock it started missing again. Is there some connection to it running worse at an idle once the motor is up to full operating temperature?
 
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