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aq 260 battery selector switch

T

toto

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Hi guys, Im back with a small problem. (i hope). while idling my 350ci just stopped.I had to jump from + side of coil to + side of bat. to allow it to stay running.next day I found what I thought was a loose wire and it ran fine for 2 or 3 hours then the same problem again.Im leaning toward a worn out B.S.S because:with key on no voltage between bat. and + side of coil in 1 bat. pos. or 2 bat. pos. or both.when I turrn bss to off pos I get 12.5 volts. the knob also doesnt snap any more either between positions. Do you think Im on the right track? thanks in advance Cam
 
Normally, if the MBSS (aka main battery selector switch) will carry the high current for starting, it will carry current for the lower demands.
If by chance this is an older Perko, it wouldn't hurt to change it given the other things that you are describing about it! (the not being "snappy")
If you want a good "snappy" MBSS, try an old Cole Hersee or one of the new Cole Hersee's...., or one of the Bluesea units.
I have found that these have larger contacts and greater spring pressure.
The old Cole Hersee's are fully serviceable, as the rear can be unscrewed and removed.

You mention voltage at the ignition coil and something about voltage at your battery switch being 12.5 when the switch is OFF!
I'm not sure that I followed this!

Your ignition system power begins at your helm, so to speak (i.e., ignition switch).
Helm power is from the hull harness, of which is powered by the engine harness, of which is powered by the MBSS "common" connection to the starter motor solenoid terminal! Somewhere in this loop, is the engine harness circuit breaker (volvo calls this a re-set-able fuse)!

A) Have you taken apart the engine harness/hull harness connection at/near the inside of your transom?
On the older AQ 225's.... AQ 260's, and engines in this year range, these harness connections fail periodically.... especially the larger circuits (helm power/helm negative). It certainly wouldn't hurt to check this!

B) Have you considered the red button re-set-able fuse in your main engine harness?
These work on a thermal basic and can become faulty...... wonder if it could be acting up?

Remember that any loose connection (positive or negative) within a circuit, can lower voltage.... and when voltage lowers (given the same load), amperage increases proportionately. Amperage is what trips circuit breakers and blows fuses.

Hang in there.. you'll find it!
 
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Just as Rick explained, make sure you check the white connector with black boot between the engine harness and boat harness. Over time all of these will fail without proper attention, I've seen lots of them spliced around especially the heavy gauge wires.
Beleive it or not one customer years ago was sitting at the dinner table and his boat started cranking in his garage, all do to this connector.
 
boatdoc55 said:
Just as Rick explained, make sure you check the white connector with black boot between the engine harness and boat harness. Over time all of these will fail without proper attention, I've seen lots of them spliced around especially the heavy gauge wires.
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Gary, you hit the nail on the head.... I had forgoten all about the black boots! :eek:

BTW, I did that very same thing on my own twin engine boat during my re-power, Gary! I actually had no issues with them, per se', but they're long since gone.
They were problematic on other boats that I've owned and worked on..... and I saw little reason to take andy chance on them.
You can actually buy new terminals for them!


.
 
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toto said:
Hi guys, Im back with a small problem. (i hope). while idling my 350ci just stopped.I had to jump from + side of coil to + side of bat. to allow it to stay running.next day I found what I thought was a loose wire and it ran fine for 2 or 3 hours then the same problem again.Im leaning toward a worn out B.S.S because:with key on no voltage between bat. and + side of coil in 1 bat. pos. or 2 bat. pos. or both.when I turrn bss to off pos I get 12.5 volts. the knob also doesnt snap any more either between positions. Do you think Im on the right track? thanks in advance Cam
Click to expand...

If the measurement that you did for "no voltage between bat and + side of coil" was from the + side of the battery, then these are the correct readings for an OK battery switch..

For most measurements with a meter, you need to keep the - lead of the meter on the battery - post.

See...

http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?t=379205
 
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thanks guys!! Rick. Is the little black box (engine limiter) that the 3 wirs from the + side of the coil go in to what you call the harness???what is a limiter??? Cam one more thing I checked, I removed all wires from + side of coil with key on and put back one at a time . with my meter - to bat . + to coil + as I put wires back on 1 at a time I had 12.5 v until I put the wire from dist. on it dropped to 10v. Make sense?? thanks again
 
re: " the knob also doesnt snap any more either between positions"

I learned a VERY long time ago, degugging electronics, that as soon as you find something that not working correctly REPLACE it. It is sometimes difficult to understand the complete relationship between elements in a system. In other words, you have Problem "A".... you see widget "x" not 100% working. You decide to not replace widget "x" because you don't think that what you see wrong with widget "x" can cause your problem and you keep looking for something else to be NG.

In your case, I would think that "failure to snap" equates to not having a solid connection under all conditions. In any event, it needs replaced eventually, so do it now and possibly save yourself more head scratching time.
 
toto said:
thanks guys!! Rick. Is the little black box (engine limiter) that the 3 wirs from the + side of the coil go in to what you call the harness???what is a limiter??? Cam one more thing I checked, I removed all wires from + side of coil with key on and put back one at a time . with my meter - to bat . + to coil + as I put wires back on 1 at a time I had 12.5 v until I put the wire from dist. on it dropped to 10v. Make sense?? thanks again
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Cam, you are welcome.
All of us are certainly willing to help you, and no one is on your case here......., but! Yes, I have a "But" here:

I think that you need to investigate one thing at a time here.
I'm hearing you talk about ignition coil, moving wires from + to -, wires to the battery, you then you move on to your MBSS, then on to a black box limiter, (of which may be a rev limiter) and then on to others.
If this is a Rev Limiter, I'd suggest temporarily disconnecting this.
You do not need this during your shake-down, and it can be one thing on your P of E (process of elimination) list to check off!

So...., I'd suggest that you systematically move through your electrical system one-item-at-a-time, and either eliminate or determine which is functioning or malfunctioning.
The 'ole P of E works every time, and rarely fails us IF done systematically...... and when one-item, and one-item-ONLY-at-a-time is looked at!



For those who choose not to do a P of E, the philosophy is to throw enough part$ at the problem, and you will eventually get it re$olved! (yes, those "$$" were deliberate)
In your case, it's a bit different, and the P of E is very likely the only way you are going to find out where your problem lies. :)

Bottom line here:
Try the P of E...... be as clear on your parts description as you can for us...... see your OEM wiring diagram........ take and post photos for us...... use your VOM...... ask questions...... and hang in there!
You will get it!
 
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thanks Rick,I think because of my LACK of electrical knowledge and that Im stuck at work and would rather be working on the boat I keep trying to understand everything at once. I no 1 at a time. thanks again, I cant wait for 3 oclock Cam
 
Ok, work is over and its time to play with boat. One step at a time (Rick) I removed the rev limiter (no change) I then ran a new wire from the run side of the ign.to the + side of the coil. Magic!!!! runs like a clock and even turns off with key. I will still change the BSS as I do think it is loosing its snap. thanks for all your ideas and to you Rick for reminding me of P of E. It works if you dont panic. Cam
 
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