Prop question

I bought a new prop late last year off of eBay for my V/P standard hub 270 outdrive.

Now that I look closely at the prop, the shaft does not have a flush flat side like all my other props do...both sides of the hub are recessed. My lower unit uses the tabbed lock washer to hold the spacer/prop cone in place and does not use the prop screw, so I am used to having the tabbed washer come to rest against the flat surface of the prop's hub/shaft area.

The new prop is stamped with Volvo 854147, which I understand has been replaced by 814628 and is the part number it was sold to me under and 814628 crosses to a Michigan Wheel 082031 prop I also have, which works on my outdrive and the hub shaft is flat on one side, so I presumed I would be getting something similar when I bought the 814628.

Here is a pic of my MW 08231 prop that shows the flat side I am used to seeing on the side of the prop that faces the prop cone:



Below is what this new prop looks like. You can't see the other side but the hub on that side is also recessed.


Can I use this prop in my configuration?

Thanks!

And now that I think about this more, I'm thinking that the tabbed washer is (hopefully) large enough in diameter so it will not be able to go into the recessed area and will be stopped by the lip that sticks up from the hub. Does someone have a tabbed washer they could measure the diameter of? Mine are all at my boat in storage.

I once got a prop something like this but there were slots in the side wall of that part of the hub that expended above the hub itself. These slots allowed one the reach thru the slot with a screwdriver to bend the tabs. On that prop, the tabbed washer fit down into the recess.
It appears to me that that prop will require a cone with a locking screw(in the end)... which in turn will require a prop shaft with at tapped hole in the end in addition to a threaded section for the cone.

Thanks Capt. Anyone want to buy a prop for cheap?

Bob, have a look at page 36 (50 of 93) in the following link. It shows the hardware you need to use that type of prop on your drive.

http://www.miwheel.com/FilesCustom/HTMLEditor/Files/99021210%20Rev%20B.pdf

el_pescador said:

Bob, have a look at page 36 (50 of 93) in the following link. It shows the hardware you need to use that type of prop on your drive.

http://www.miwheel.com/FilesCustom/HTMLEditor/Files/99021210 Rev B.pdf

Click to expand...

Thanks El, but I am already using the hardware shown in the diagram for the standard hub...the hardware shown which does not use the Allen Bolt. The issue I have is that the the tabbed lock washer (F) does not have a flat surface to mate with, or at least one that will make it accessible, because the face of this prop is recessed below a lip by about 2/3 inch.

I have both props in hand. I believe the new prop (the white one) is for a long hub lower unit despite that it's stamped with 854147 (replaced by 814628), which is a short hub prop according to my research. It's hub (including the lip) is 5" long whereas the hub on the black prop (the one that works on my drive) is 4" long. The hub on the white prop is 4" long if you don't include the lip. Also, the tabbed lock washer is not big enough to catch on the lip of the white prop's hub...it fits nicely inside of it, however I can't think of a way I'd be able to "lock" the tabs since they would be 1" down into the recessed area.

Looks like this prop I bought has been mismarked and/or Volvo has changed their props significantly. I suspect the former.

You can always drill the prop shaft and thread it with a tap. It is not too difficult to do, and this way you shold be able to use either prop. I can post the dimensions (thread pitch & diameter + hole diameter (size of drill bit) and depth) if you want to go that way.

Thanks El. Would this require removal of the prop shaft? If so, I don't want to go that route.

About the only things that you need to know, IMO, are these.

Prop spacer/line cutter is specific to the drive, not the prop.
Short spacer/line cutter = 250, 270, 275 drive.
Long spacer/line cutter = 280, 285, 290, SP drive.
Either prop shaft, with the correct spacer/line cutter, renders the same amount of prop shaft splines.


There will be an array of spinners (cone nuts)

• One pc, no center hole.
• Onc pc, center lock bolt hole.
• Two pc, for use with long/short hub props. Most will have center hole.
• Two pc using AFT section only is for long hub props.
• Two pc w/ both parts being used is same as one pc, w/ center hole

The SS locking tab must use the Spinner that is notched.
Also works best with prop that has the cut-outs for bending the tabs... or flat at the rear.

The 270 prop shaft will not be drilled/threaded for the center locking bolt, of which may limit you to both spinner and prop style.

The later 280 and all 275's, and all s/p drives after this, will have this threaded hole which gives you a better combination of parts.

Not sure if this helped answer your question, but it will arm you with more info.

.

Thanks Ricardo. I've got everything I need...except this new prop!

You should be able to do this without removing anything e.g. the prop shaft from the drive.
Use one of these:

http://www.google.com/products/cata...og_result&ct=result&resnum=2&ved=0CDoQ8wIwAQ#

Just make sure you have it firmly indexed to the drive, i.e., mount this fixture to the drive so it stays where you put it. Take it slow and easy and use some lube on a new good quality drill bit.
Drill the hole in stages, cleaning the drill and hole. Use a "blind" tap (it has a blunt end) so you don't have to drill the hole any deeper than necessary.
Use lube when tapping... go slow and easy with the tap. If you've never done this before, it goes like this.
1) carefully start tap square to the hole
2) turn CW 1/2 turn
3) turn CCW 1/4 turn
4) repeat 2 and 3
I've been successful using WD40 as a lube for low speed drilling and tapping.
5) Stop every 4 or 5 cycles, remove and clean off tap, flush out hole. Run tap back into bottom
tapped hole, repeat 2 and 3....etc..

These jigs are generally stocked at your local "big box" hardware store. Just make sure you use the correct drill bit ( usually a "numbered" drill size, not a fractional for the proper tap)

Thanks Capt. but I think I don't think I will risk my prop shaft trying to do that job. I'm just going to bite the bullet on this one and try and sell this prop and then keep an eye out for something that will for sure work. The black prop above got bent slightly after hitting something while cruising late last season and I am taking it in today to get repaired. I saw this new one on eBay, the price was right and so I bought it to have as a spare.

Thanks again to everyone!

We don't want to lube threads that are being cut. Rolled threads, yes! Cut threads, NO!