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Project Boat 1983 270

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MrGadget

New member
I just purchased a 1983 Bayliner Capri with a AQ125A/270 in it. I do not have any history on this boat and want to make sure that I take all precautions before launch. I see both boots are torn and need replacing, the timing belt looks to be ok, but do not know how many hrs are on it. When I got it, it was winterized and the previous owner didn't know anything about what was done to it or much of anything for that matter. My question to all you experianced boat owners is, what should I just replace and what maintenance should I do on it before I set this thing in the water? I know for sure I'll have to replace the I/O boots, but I guess I'm wondering if I should just replace the U-Joints not knowing if it has been run in the water with torn boots or not? I don't have unlimited funds, so I don't want to just start replacing everything, but on the same hand, I don't want to not do something that will cost me more in the long run or extra work that I could of done when I had the outdrive off to replace the boots.

Thank you in advanced!
 
Re: Project Boat

If it was run in the water with a torn top boot, it will be fairly obvious when you remove the existing boot. Running with the bottom boot torn is not a problem.
 
Re: Project Boat

If you don't know the history of the boat, the safest thing to do is to start from zero.

The first thing I would do is to run a compression test to the engine. If the results are questionable, then I would follow-up with a leak-down test. You don't want to run an engine with severe blow-by into the crankcase due to seized or broken piston rings.

If the drive boot is torn, you should replace the u-joints and also the primary drive shaft bearing and seals.

Check the timing gears. If they are rusty or pitted, replace them with an automotive set (you may be able to find them in autowreckers). In any case, I would replace the timing belt just for safety. You can get an automotive timing belt for around $25-$30 so it is worth the investment. In any case, rest assured that if the timing belt breaks your boat may need to be towed, but there won't be valve damage, as the engine is non-interference style. And when replacing the timing belt, consider installing a new idler as well.

In any case, you may want to do a complete tune-up: new plugs, new coil, ignition wires. Consider also replacing the points and condenser in the distributor with a Pertronix 2842 electronic ignition kit. You may also want to open the carb, clean it (including the in-line strainer) and fit new gaskets and needle valve.

When thinking about costs, you may want to keep in mind that spending a few hundred dollars now will give you peace of mind and added safety when your boat is in the water.
 
Re: Project Boat

I absolutely ditto what Eduardo just said. All points are what I would suggest also.

1983 Bayliner Capri????
This is very likely a cantilever hung engine!
You may want to first examine the structural integrity of the transom core.
Not to be doom and gloom here, but these are chopper gun built boats, and this may very well be the reason this boat was sold.
If you have a soft transom core..... this may change your plans entirely.
If this boat has been taken care of, stored inside for example, this may be a non-issue!
Let's hope so!

Point being, this is the very first place that I would look!

.
 
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Re: Project Boat

Thank you all for your suggestions.

1: How do I inspect the transom core and what am I looking for?

2: How do I know what type of mount I have?

Thank you!
 
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Re: Project Boat

1) Start by using an icepick and probing the exposed area in the transom around where the sterndrive's mounting collar is mounted, i.e. in the area of the 6 main mounting bolts. If soft, you've got problems. Probe especially in areas under the water line. The area you need to especially probe is that area that is the sides of the hole (transom thickness). Another area to check is for delamination of the transom in the area radiating from the drain hole in the transom. But a small plastic headed hammer. Tap on the transom. Start at a spot that is fairly high up and likely to be OK. The hammer should "dead fall", i.e., just go "thud". Tap around the drain hole, if the transom is delaminated, the hammer will "bounce". As to how repairable any problems are, this is a call for someone experienced in this type of work.

2) Type of mount. Cantilevered mount means that there are no engine mounts at the front of the engine, i.e., the only "mount" the engine has is the PDS ("bell housing") thru the transom.
 
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Re: Project Boat

Ditto Bob's comments, MrGadget! :)

Bob, I love your "thud" method explanation!
Could you sound that out for us? LOL :D

MrGadget, there is nothing particularly negative about the Cantilever engine suspension method as long as the transom core is good.
It is rather odd to see, but it has been tried and proven to work well.
I think that B/L may be the only one to have done this..... and in the Capri only I believe. I'm not completely sure on that!

.
 
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Re: Project Boat

Thank you all very much!
I'll check out the transom and move on from there. The weather isn't cooperative today, so it might be next weekend before I can dig into it.
I'll post as I work on it!
Thanks again!
 
Re: Project Boat

BTW... re delamination test. I learned this from a friend of mine who is a marine surveyor. Unfortunately, his demonstration on the boat he was surveying for me ended up finding with delamination in a rough arc centered on the drain plug hole and going about 18" out. The repair was, tedious but not particularly expensive.
The delamination occured because the hole drilled thru the transom for the drain plug did not have the exposed wood epoxy sealed and years of standing rain water in the bilge by the previous owner tripped off dryrot and delam. Wood got wet, winter came, temps got below freezing, water froze, ice expands, popping the fiberglass skin off the plywood inner core of the transom.
 
Re: Project Boat

Ok, the boat has a Cantilever engine suspension. I did the tests above and all seems to be solid! Now, I'm ready to replace the boots and would like to know what other parts I should order? (ie., Seals, bearings, etc.)

Once I'm done with the boots, then I get to move on to the interior. The floor will need a complete replacement and I'm sure that I can do it, but my question is, what is the best way to do the fiberglass coat? Spray on, or is it better to take it to a shop and have them do the coating?

Thank you!
 
Re: Project Boat

Another possibility is a product called Nautolex. It is a vinyl covering intended for boat decks and interiors. It is available in a number of patterns, one of which mimics white wood planking. This latter covering is most famously used on the decks of early 31 ft Bertrams.
It is glued down over primed plywood and must have its edges secured (stapled). In order to get a nice clean looking surface, the product has a designed in slight shrinkage.
My Lancer has Nautolex decks as well. It has the pebble pattern (dark blue) and it's non slip when wet.

I once fiberglassed the deck of my first boat (rot problems) and was not happy with the result. I ended up putting Nautolex over the glass (after much sanding).
 
Re: Project Boat

Thank you Capt Bob.
The next question is then, how do you seal the seams of the wood then from being exposed? I see that this option would save me from having to fibercoat the wood and then putting in carpet, which saves $$, but if I'm going to spend the time to replank the deck, I want to make sure that it will last, even though the boat will not be exposed to the elements when it isn't in the water.

Thank you!
 
Re: Project Boat

I managed to get everything loose except the main pilot bolts to finish removing the out drive. I removed the 2 keeper bolts and sprayed penetrating oil in the holes and around the pilot bolts as best as I can! Is there an easier way to remove these?

It looks like I need to replace the goose neck on the out drive and I'm going to replace the hose also. I can see the drive shaft and wow, it looks pristine in there, so I'm hoping the U-Joints are ok. I ran the unit in forward and reverse moving the trim up and down and also steering the unit back and forth and there isn't any u-joint noise at all, so I'm going to take a chance and just replace the boots, goose neck, inlet hose, zinc ring at the prop and while I'm ordering parts, timing belt and the sea water impeller kit as well.

Is there anything else that I should consider?

Thank you!!!
 
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