MESSAGE TO THE MODIRATORS>
GO BACK TO THE OLD ONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
good luck as I think I am not going to participate much anymore.............
kghost, I've been using the v-Bulletin format for years now. It is far superior, but will require a short learning curve.
Forget the "smilies".... they're not the problem! Just play with the menu driven icons and learn what they do!
Hang in there.... don't give up!
BTW... here is your image!
I even installed a new thermostat housing and new switches.
What does
"new switches" mean?
A new temp sender?
If so, is this of the correct impedance for the gauge?
Example: A dual station boat will require a different sender than a single station boat!
(one good reason to use the Laser Thermo gun to see if the readings are same!)
Also...... Do not use Teflon Tape on these threads!
Does the new stat have a tiny air bleed hole in it?
Here is the sea water path as it first reaches the engine:
- It enters the T stat housing via the Port side.
- A portion of it is directly ported to the Engine Circulating pump.
- The remaining portion goes directly to the exhaust cooling.
- The Engine Circulating pump forces it into the engine block and up through the cylinder heads on an "as needed" basis!
- It's only escape is through the block and the heads via the thermostat and housing!
- Once the thermostat is open, the "spent" sea water now enters the other side of the T stat housing and into the path of the "Main Stream" cooling water and on to the exhaust system.
NOTE: in order to function correctly, the stat must allow this initial air to pass around and/or through it! (hence the thermostat bleed hole)
The thermostat bulb must "sense" liquid coolant Temperature in order to open. (yes, hot gasses will eventually cause it to open, but you will have likely over-heated by then)
Once purged of air, the warm sea water (coolant) will now be able to warm the bulb on the T stat and begin the opening process!
If kghost's image is correct for your engine, then it gives you a good idea of the path!
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As for starting with the least expensive things first?????? That would not be my recipe!
Whether inexpensive or expensive, the problem area must be found and corrected.
Sure.... we do hope it is an inexpensive one! But you are going to repair/replace it anyway... Correct?
So it is best to diagnose using logic....... rather than the lowest repair cost option!
Like suggested..... use the P of E...... possibly starting at the sea water pump....., up through the copper tube..... up through the "Bell-to-Gimbal-Unit hose"......, to the inboard sea water hoses....... to the T stat housing......, out from the T stat housing to the exhaust, etc.
Good news is, IMO............., your exhaust is running cool!
This is a promising sign!
.