"O" Rings for Stern Gear Pivot.

G'day all,

I am having trouble with coolant water leaking out from past the "O" Rings that transfer the coolant water from the Leg to the Intermediate Housing on my '72 Stern Drive that uses Ball Gears to transfer the engine drive to the Outdrive. (Picture attached of cover).

I have tried simple "O" Rings, and they get torn up when pivoting the Leg up and down, and when running the engine, water is constantly flowing out behind the covers.

I have tried using thicker "O" Rings, Thin "O" Rings, but nothing seems to stop the leaking.

It wouldn't be a problem, but I want all the water to flow into the Cooling System to do its' job of cooling.

Are there any "Special" Gaskets required to be used?

The one I pulled out when I disassembled the unit was a flat Cork ring for the small one, but I can't remember what was uesd for the larger one, but in any case, I think they broke up when I removed the covers to drop the Leg.

As I am still running the engine in on the Trailer, I would like to get these leaks sorted out before going into the wild blue yonder.

Thanks,

Bruce.

The o rings that go in the female end of garden hoses, that screws to the outside bib of my house is what i finally used that was the best fit. That was in conjuction with the felt.

Don't forget there is a gasket that goes on under the plate. I made one.

Tip : do not overtighten the screws it's easy to do and a day's work to fix if you do.

G'day cheifalen,

Thanks for the clue on the Garden Hose piece, but what is the Felt Part?

Is it a specially-shaped piece of felt with a small groove that fits in the groove that is in the end of the "journal"?

Plus, are the end Caps all that hold the Leg centrally in position?

Thanks,

Bruce.

Is the Felt part a complete Gasket? or just a Ring?

The pictures show it as a sort of "O" Ring, but there isn't a very wide groove in the Journal to retain one in place.

And if a Ring, what keeps it from leaking water when the pump is pushing water at pressure through the area?

Bruce.

if a stringer drive ever falls over in the shop, it tends to land on those journals and crimp the oring groove shut, or knock a piece off.
I have dremelled a couple back into shape and repaired pits with JB weld.

I always just use the OMC parts.

You can see the exploded view at shop.evinrude.com

the plates are gasketed to the covers, then the oring has the nice stainless surface to seal against.

as you can see, the newer water directors have more "meat" to support the plate. I wonder if the newer ones would fit on the older intermediate.

Pic is worth a thousand words

Oh you have the trunions sort of main bearing with a metal " shim " that actually works as sort of a bushing. if you look at the design the drive can't move one way or the other the end caps are there to allow the water too, direct the water sort of "elbow"

Theres a guy in england has a old time boat 69 or ealier with a stringer that uses all pipe outside the drive.

Also the " tattle tale stream " on the ball gears are directed thru the starboard end cap. I don't know what he did to have water on the gears, seems to me when idleing in the water the gears are under water, and when running they are always wet, so why the stream in the first place. Maybe to keep the gears wet on the trailer and running it maybe.

Many thanks Hystat and chiefalen,

Are you saying that the Ball Gears need water lubrication? On my boat, the top of the drive is so far out of the water that I thought they were supposed to run dry? Is that why there is a tin shroud or cover that I sometimes see on ebay?

My "O" Ring Grooves in the Journals are in perfect condition, and even with Neoprene "O" Rings installed, it still leaks and for the life of me, I cannot seem to completely seal up the area with either small or large thickness ones.

I don't want to risk running the Heat Exchanger dry, or low on pressure, which will also cause problems with cooling the exhaust rubber hoses.

I will take a picture of mine when I pull them off next. But, by Stainless steel plate is larger than the one you have shown in your picture.

I just can't get the OMC Parts here as the local Marine Dealers just aren't interested in helping. Too Old they say, and no Catalogues, etc, etc.

Bruce.

I have come to the realisation that I have been trying to fix a leak that looks like it was designed into the cooling system in the first place.

While watching the engine running, and water streaming out from under the pivot points, I delved deeper, after turning the engine off. Lo and behold, I find two holes that look like they were drilled there.

These are hidden away, and I would say that they look like they are outlets for telling the operator that the coolant is flowing into the system as per requirements.

Now, if this is the case, which stupid me should have realised that Outboards do exactly the same, what would you suggest would be the best way to ensure that I am getting sufficient cooling water through the Heat Exchanger as I can't see the water leaving due to the Exhaust being under water case it departs?

Thanks,

Bruce.

PS. Will be in the water sooner than later, now I know what is going on.

May i ask what manual are you working out of ?

What parts are you having trouble finding ?

I'm glad my rambling imparted some knowledge to you.

Watch your temp gauge if it goes anywhere over 180 you will know you have a problem.

What motor is this ?

G'day cheifalen,

The Manual I am working from is a basic one by Clymer Manual, but I have also downloaded stuff I have gained from both asking questions on this site, and other parts of the internet,

OMC isn't a really good name down here in Tasmania, and nobody carries anything, and even getting a Intermediate to Bellhousing Gasket was a lesson in "the picture looks like it is the one" and I had to pay for it before the seller would even consider taking the order to import it, but it was the right one, thankfully.

All other parts, I have purchased off ebay, or leads off the "net" and have worked out okay, and I have been able to purchased the required Pinion Gearsets, Ball Gears, Shafts, Water Pump Impellers, and spare Shear Pins, Props, etc, from USA (Postage has been a real killer though)

BUT, I still cannot get a definite identification as to what I have. Whenever I make enquiries, the first question that is asked is, What is the Serial Number, and I don't have one starting with the letter "H". Throws everyone, every time. All that is there in the way of ID plates is what is pictured.

As far as what I know I have is: 1973 Chris Craft Gull Wing Seasport 16, fitted with a Buick Odd-fire V6 of 225 Cubic Inch, 150 HP, and attached to that is an OMC Long Shaft Stern Drive. Even the Exhaust Manifolds, which have the Chris Craft tag attached, is different to all that is in the Catalogues, in as much as each end is held from leaking with Gaskets with 4 Bolt Holes. All the pictures show is 3 Bolt Holes. So, wherever I have had to get Gaskets, I have had to make them myself. (The tags on the Fuel Lines are 1973 and the Fuel Tank was certified on May 10th 1973, having been built in Pennsylvania.)

The Cooling was a Thermocom Develvo system, that I have converted to a 90% Closed Cooling System, with the Engine, and retained the outlet ends for Raw Water Cooling.

Now for the fun bit, which I will explain fully, after I have proved that it works. I am using the 130 Degree Thermostat to control the Exhaust Temperature of the Exhaust Manifolds, and the engine's internal 180 degree Thermostat to control the Engine itself for better performance, and the coolant when it leaves the engine, dumps straight into the Heat Exchanger to be coled by the Raw Water that is circulated via the pump in the Leg. And, I will be watching the Temperature Gauge like a hawk.

The ramblings from all of you has enlightened me about this unit, and what I found wrong, and questions have been answered. Next week comes the Launching of the vessel, after I have run-in the new Cam and Lifters in the tank at home.

Now I know that the "water leak" that I have been trying to stop is normal, I can run the engine for longer, after I have fabricated a couple of extra sides to stop if flowing all over the yard, and back into the tank.

Bruce.

I "think" I am down to the final bits of this area, and there is one more question.

Do these Out-drives, have "Tell-tale" water outlets drilled into the housing to indicate the pump operation like in the basic Outboard Motors?

As you can see from 3 posts above, mine has a hole on each side, under the cover plates, that water streams out of when the engine is running.

Thanks,

Bruce.

water should shoot on the ball gears. From the pics i can't see what your talking about.

Here is the picture of the hole, and its location.

I can't see any hole on the inside that would supply a stream to shoot onto the Ball Gears. I thought they were supposed to run dry.

I have seen metal covers on ebay that are described as Ball Gear Covers, but this unit doesn't seem to have ever been fitted with one of those.

Bruce.

i'm going to study my seloc manual today been crazy around here. Been 7 years sinse i had a electric shift drive in my hands let me see what i can find out .

Thanks mate,

This is the first Stern Drive I have had anything to do with, even though I have been working with boats professionally since 1964.

Bruce.

hi bruce, you have helped me out in the past, now its my turn. yes there are "tell tale" streams that come out of that out drive. i have a 72 omc 165 horse, i remember checking the streams to see if the impeller is pumping properly. hope that helps. tony

another thing i forgot, the streams shoot outward, not towards the ball gears.

yep outwards straight back 2 streams of water. Jeez i am getting old, i just have my drive on my mind cause there is one stream and it has a water deflector the water shoots on the gears.

Sorry about the confusion.

G'day Searay1973 and cheifalen,

Your replies are music to my ears.

Now I can go and have some fun without having to wonder, and worry, at least in that department.

Thanks,

Bruce.

Just a thought though, would it be beneficial if I fabricated a system where the water from one of these "outlets" is directed to run onto the Ball Gears, to ensure longer life?

Or am I being too anal?

Bruce.

i always thought, that is was not needed the water shooting on the gears and heres why:

When on the trailer running, how long does someone really run the motor maybe to flush ? 5 minutes maybe ?

In the water running water is all over the top of the drive and the gears are wet.

But the book says that a water deflector should be installed if not one is present on drives 72' and newer. I am betting your boat may be a 72' but the drive and motor were made a year or 2 before. Not uncommon to this day to have a drive and motor of any make that is made a year or 2 before the manufacture of the hull.

Reason i posted about the deflector is no need for one if you don't have water shooting on the gear.

Yep i studied the book when on the throne yesterday, wife thought i was nuts walking around with it yesterday, cause she knows i know it inside and out the drive and motor, i said was for a friend down under, and she said no going DOWN under for you meaning me.

G'day chiefalen,

Thanks for the reply,

One thing that I have been stymied with this whole combination from the start is not knowing just what year model I have on both the Engine, and the Outdrive. Getting parts has been a case of measuring and matching.

The Outdrive only has a Serial Number consisting of numbers, and no Letter H visible ANYWHERE. And utilises Press-on Ball Gears. The Manual I have (a generic one) says to use the Ball Gear cover, when fitted, and as none was there, I am sure it isn't needed. Maybe it was there to stop people from sticking little fingers in there

The Engine is an Odd-fire Buick V6 with Thermocon Develvo Cooling, which I cannot find end Gaskets for, as it has 4 bolt holes in each end, and all the Gaskets available have 4 bolt holes.

The hull is possible built in 1972 but more likely 1973, as the fuel tank is 1973, and the tags on the fuel lines are 1973

I am yet to obsberve what water splashes where when running, as when running it in the tank, I was more concerned about supposed leak at the Pivot Points, and running the cam and lifters in. 2,500 Revs on the trailer, with the leg in the tank makes for a bit of a mess. At least I didn't have the Prop attached.

Bruce.

PS. Any time you want to come down under, don't hesitate. Forget about the mainland, we have better scenery and waterways down here in Tasmania. And free Launching Ramps everywhere.

One thing that i find in my travels, and encounters with people from down under are that i have never met one person from there i didn't like.

What they thought of me i don't know. HAH.

I really don't think you should ever rev past 1500 out of the water. 1200 is really the limit out of the water.

copied from another site and pasted here should help you figure out what you have

OMC 3 litre Model#802 FTHRCRA

He has an 84 stringer, in his model number, the 8 is supposed to be a 3.
The CR in the model number indicates the year.
OMC Year Code.

I N T R O D U C E S
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0

When referring to the maximum revs out of the water, are you referring to the hull being out of the water, or just the Leg?

Bruce.

PS. I haven't met any Americans, or other "Aliens" that I haven't not liked.

PPS. Where do I look at to find the "Codes"?

valve cover

chiefalen said:

valve cover

Click to expand...

Oh poop!!!!!

Been stripped and painted.

But the only sticker in place was one on the front of the Port Cover, which related to Octane Rating, etc.

There was nothing on the Starboard one. Just bare metal from the paint falling off.

Bruce.

look on the upper of the drive starboard side should be a plate feel around with your hand you might have to raise the drive halfway.

Here is a picture of the Serial Number plate.

Bruce.