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Cross from a Volvo 3860232 U-joint

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dazk14

Contributing Member
Does anyone know of which spicer(or any brand) u-joint/cross the Volvo 3860232 external truarc ring u-joint crosses over to.

Also, does the yoke have to be removed from the upper gear box to replace the cross. The fit is a little tight.

Thanks!
 
It is best to remove the bearing box for this, IMO.
Apply a little heat to the gear case in the area of the thread "inserts" before attempting to remove the four bolts!
This way you can change the main seal, take a gear pattern reading, pull the gear from the BB and inspect bearings..... A must if V-8, IMO!
Watch the spec for rolling torque when re-assembling!


For the older internal clips:

SPICER# 5-1306X (my preference)
(I cannot verify the following..... info passed on by another member)
ROCKFORD# K1306
DETROIT# 7260
NEAPCO# 1-6300 / 1-6301
PRECISION (MOOG)# 315G
TRW (FEDERAL MOGUL)# 20030 / 20030P

For the external clips:

Neapco (USA) 1-0005 (watch out where the zerk is located)
some will be in the cap, of which we can not use.

Meyle (German) # 3520 997 Art No 514 814 0002
replacement for #1-0005
dual zerks in apex of cross, 180* apposing.
these are of very high quality and are expensive!
 
Thanks Rick,

Just to circle back, I found the cross references for the external ring U-joints that can be traced back to the Volvo Penta 3860232 or 854619 (old #) spider u-joint.

These are used on Volvo autos and Range Rovers (amongst others).

A specific year is a 1983 Volvo 244 DL 2.3L, 1.75"(not 2") tube, rear(not center) U-joint.

Neapco 1-0005 note: All units I found had the bearing cup mounted zirc-that won't work.
Precision 344
Napa NPJ P344 this has a heat treated cross list $21.42
Napa PUJ 344 this has a forged cross list $29.99
Spicer 5-4x
AEC 504 made in China can buy 2 on Ebay for $25 delivered(will confirm location of zirc)
Rockford K4
Rockwell -no fitment
Alloy 1021

As Rick mentioned before, confirm the grease fitting is not mounted on bearing cup(most are ok).
I can't speak to the quality of any of these - maybe others can chime in here.
Hope this helps,
Mike
 
My guess is that any of these Bearing Crosses have a forged spider (or cross piece ) that is later machined at the bearing surfaces!
Anything that was not forged would very likely not be up for this great task.
I would steer clear of the Chinese made though!

Interestingly...... I can buy the Spicer 5-1306x for about $12 each.... but the others are a little bit more..... the Meyle (German) being the most expensive!
 
I am also trying to find a match for the VP 3860232 UJoint spider. Does anyone have an opinion on the style that has the zerk fitting in center of the cross as pictured? I'm thinking it should work ok and may even be more accessible.

Prec 344 AG.jpg

I'm having trouble finding any of the other brands suggested above. The pic is of the Precision 344AG, which is readily available. I'm a little concerned about it and the Precision 344 (zerk in the 'armpit') since the length between cap ends is a little shorter than what I'm currently replacing. Mine are approx 2.965" while the 344 is 2.935" (according to Federal Mogul tech support, parent to Moog, parent to Precision)

I also stopped at Carquest and they tried to match up to mine by actually measuring and came up with Carquest # 250-0080 (said they're made by Spicer. Not listed on their online site apparently). These had the center zerk, but also had a length of 2.98. The guy said they'd compress a little since they were new, so I'm unsure of which to go between slightly long or slightly short. I'm going to measure the actual yokes later.
 
You are asking about the later Volvo Penta externally clipped bearing crosses for this style drive shaft.... correct?
(I had marked up this drawing for another purpose)


attachment.php



Look at the clips here............. these ressemble the OEM clips as shown above.


Compare them to this style clip.

I've found this style to be on the thick side, and I've had trouble getting them to seat in the yoke/center section clip grooves.


Also, and just a suggestion here........., forget about the local Mom/Pop auto parts stores, or even NAPA for that matter.
They rarely carry what you're looking for, and when they do think that they've crossed referenced correctly, there may be subtle differences.

Instead, go to a Power Train-drive-line shop, or 4WD Off Road shop, or a Truck Power Train parts specialty shop.
Their stock will be more extensive, and the parts guys will know what they're talking about.

Ask to look at a pair of the Meyle (German) # 3520 997
replacement for #1-0005
dual zerks in apex of cross, 180* apposing.
These are of very high quality.... but are also expensive!

NOTE: some bearing caps needs to be dressed by several thousandths on a surface sander, in order to allow for the clips to fit nicely.
Not a deal breaker... just an FYI.

Also, if you find these in a less expensive version, but the grease fitting is in the bearing cap, ask them to plug the ports.
You can re-install the grease fitting at the time of servicing, then plug them again.

After you install them, tap on the yokes or center section (in either direction) to relax the bearing caps from the trunion ends.
They should rotate nice and smoothly.
 

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Thanks again Rick!

Yes, my yokes are exactly as you pictured, with external clips. I should have mentioned 572 engine, DP-C drive.

I have looked high and low and apparently we have no off-road specialty shops in my area, and the nearest drive-line shop is 50 miles away. They do carry many of the brands but not Meyle, which I'd love to find based on your recommendation, but cannot seem to find online anywhere.

I finally had to settle on the Precision 344, available from a local auto parts store, even though I still had to get them ordered in.

I've installed one of them so far without too much difficulty. The clips did not seem thicker, but my old ones do have some corrosion on them, so its really hard to say. The Precision 344 measures .03 inches shorter cap end to cap end, but they still seem very snug (maybe the clips are indeed a little thicker and taking up the extra room).

Question.. After installation and adding more grease, the joints are a bit stiff, meaning if I hold the center section and lift the connected yoke up, for example, it does not just flop down via gravity. They will move if I flex them by hand with a little, not extreme, effort. They also seem to be getting a little looser as I flex them more. Is this normal?
 
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You need to smack the end yokes and center section AFTER the cross install to get all parts "relaxed" or aligned up.
 
Agreed.

The inertia will push the trunions into the caps, and the caps will come out tightly against the clips.
Good way to see if your clips are fully bedded into the grooves also.
 
boatdoc55 said:
You need to smack the end yokes and center section AFTER the cross install to get all parts "relaxed" or aligned up.
Click to expand...

Thanks boatdoc! I think Rick was trying to tell me that in the previous post, but I didn't quite understand. Today, I laid the yoke, 1 end cap down, on a board on the floor, then laid a board on top of the opposing side's end cap and smacked it a few times with a large hammer. Turned it over and did the same. Then did the other ends as well. Much much looser now.

Now I feel better about installing the next one, knowing I didn't totally screw something up.

The Precision 344 looks like it will work fine. BTW, I found it easier to look-up by referencing an 1988 Land Rover Range Rover, rear axle, rear u-joint.


Thanks again guys!
 
Unless I'm not following you, you'll not want to lay this on any surface. Just hold the assembly in your hand and while using a brass hammer, follow this below.
You'll be doing this 8 times.
 

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Oopps..... my mistake.
I should have said that there's no need to lay this on a hard surface....... but due to the external clips with this style, it will work.
All you're doing is relaxing each cap from it's trunion end surface.

With the earlier internally clipped crosses, you'd want to block this with the bearing cap resting in an open sleeve of some sort.
Small piece of tubing, for example, with an ID just slightly larger than the OD of the bearing cap.



.
 
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Meyle (German) # 3520 997 Art No 514 814 0002
replacement for #1-0005
dual zerks in apex of cross, 180* apposing.
these are of very high quality and are expensive!
Click to expand...

Very Handy information. Thanks very much. I did happen to find these on Amazon for $12 each and thought it was an amazing deal. They seem to be working great. I live that I can pull the bellows back and lube them up each year also.
 
Keep in mind that with these marine drive bearing crosses, we are placing them under the greatest and longest loads while driving straight ahead.
This means that the bearing cross articulation is minimal.

This means that the needles apply most pressure against the same area of the trunions more constantly, than if in a car/truck driveline where articulation is greater.

What this means.... is that these needles "point load", rather than placing the loads across a larger area of the trunion surfaces.

While greasing these may give us that "feel-good-feeling", no amount of grease will prevent the wear from point loading.

This is why we replace these more often than on our cars/trucks.

Next time that you remove a well used set......, look closely at the trunion surfaces.
You'll see the results of point loading.



.
 
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I am replacing my bellows, and have looked at the u joints they feel smooth and lubricated except one spider seems to be able to move sideways in the cups about 1/16 or so. Is this a sign of wear and should i replace them?



RicardoMarine said:
Keep in mind that with these marine drive bearing crosses, we are placing them under the greatest and longest loads while driving straight ahead.
This means that the bearing cross articulation is minimal.

This means that the needles apply most pressure against the same area of the trunions more constantly, than if in a car/truck driveline where articulation is greater.

What this means.... is that these needles "point load", rather than placing the loads across a larger area of the trunion surfaces.

While greasing these may give us that "feel-good-feeling", no amount of grease will prevent the wear from point loading.

This is why we replace these more often than on our cars/trucks.

Next time that you remove a well used set......, look closely at the trunion surfaces.
You'll see the results of point loading.



.
Click to expand...
 
RicardoMarine said:
Keep in mind that with these marine drive bearing crosses, we are placing them under the greatest and longest loads while driving straight ahead.This means that the bearing cross articulation is minimal.

This means that the needles apply most pressure against the same area of the trunions more constantly, than if in a car/truck driveline where articulation is greater.

What this means.... is that these needles "point load", rather than placing the loads across a larger area of the trunion surfaces.

While greasing these may give us that "feel-good-feeling", no amount of grease will prevent the wear from point loading.

This is why we replace these more often than on our cars/trucks.

Next time that you remove a well used set......, look closely at the trunion surfaces.
You'll see the results of point loading.

Click to expand...


JohnyLingo said:
I am replacing my bellows, and have looked at the u joints they feel smooth and lubricated except one spider seems to be able to move sideways in the cups about 1/16 or so.
Is this a sign of wear and should I replace them?
Click to expand...

In my quote above, I explain what occurs to the bearing crosses in a Marine stern drive scenario.
The answers are yes.... this is a sign of wear, and yes..... you should replace these bearing crosses!



By the way, you have posted to a thread that was started in April of 2010.



.
 
Thanks Rick. wasn't sure if i should start a new post or what. I have been doing a ton of research and study on these volvo penta Dp-a drives, this is my first one. So the PDS bearings went and i pulled the engine and replaced them. I have been hesitant to replace the u joints cause i didn't want to have to pull the upper gear box top.
Which i have found and am reading a diff thread of yours Thread: 290 DP Upper Gear oil seal replacement
the bearing box on my drive has a bolt ground half way through from a previous issue i guess, cause there is no new wear on the bolt or yoke. There is new wear on the transome side of the yoke where it scraped the fly wheel cover, lucky for me it didn't break the FC. I am going to have a tough time getting the bolt out of the bearing box.
 
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............
JohnyLingo said:
Thanks Rick. wasn't sure if i should start a new post or what.
There is no rule, per'se, that prevents us from posting to an old thread, and I suppose if the topic is identical, go for it.
However, in my opinion it is best to start a new thread, and perhaps link us to the thread that you found while searching.


I have been doing a ton of research and study on these volvo penta Dp-a drives, this is my first one. So the PDS bearings went and i pulled the engine and replaced them. I have been hesitant to replace the u joints cause i didn't want to have to pull the upper gear box top.
Which i have found and am reading a diff thread of yours Thread: 290 DP Upper Gear oil seal replacement
The bearing box on my drive has a bolt ground half way through from a previous issue i guess, cause there is no new wear on the bolt or yoke. There is new wear on the transome side of the yoke where it scraped the fly wheel cover, lucky for me it didn't break the FC. I am going to have a tough time getting the bolt out of the bearing box.
Since this is an A transmission, the 4 cap screw threads will be dry (as apposed to the Pre-A transmissions).
Typically these bolts will come out easily.
Suggestion:
Before trying to remove them, apply some propane torch heat to the main gear case where the thread inserts are installed. This will gently expand any rust/corrosion and will help with the removal.
No Oxy/Acet heat!
Click to expand...
 
Meyle was originally manufactured in Germany..... and was good stuff.
I see that they are now made in Japan, of which is still good in my book.
 
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