BF225 Pulsing Alarm/Clunk in Reverse

We've got a Honda BF225 thats a bit over three years old with about 225 hours on the engine and have two problems. Recently there has been a intermittent alarm that goes off when the boat is at idle (after running about 10 minutes at higher rpms). The beeping alarm goes off until we turn the motor off, then it restarts fine and there is no alarm. Green light on console (oil okay) and no red lights go on until the intermittent/pulsing alarm goes off and then both red check engine lights go on. I don't have the mechanics manual and am unsure on how to get the blinking light codes in the actual motor.

I've read thru the boards here and read the manual and then checked the water separator, there didn't seem to be any water mixed with the fuel (I drained it, then cleaned it and reinstalled it). The big water/fuel separator running from the fuel tank to the motor also did not have any water in it. Because it is only happening after running partial to full throttle and then the alarm comes on when it's in neutral could this be from the oxygen sensor going bad? Is there anything else we should be looking for that's common with a pulsing alarm? I thought for sure it was the water separator but after cleaning it out and running the boat again today we had the same problem.

The second problem which has been getting worse is there is a loud CLUNK sound when we put the motor in reverse, I'm not sure if it is the motor slipping out of gear or not but there will be several clunks in succession if we have it in reverse and ease the throttle, this clunking seems to be getting worse.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

W D Neal put together a nifty chart that explains the different alarms. A lot depends on whether those two red lights stay on after you start the engine or go out after two seconds (as they should). Check the chart.



If the two lights stay on, then it appears that you may have a couple of issues.

As for the lower unit, if it is ratcheting, it could be only a shift adjustment...but if it has been getting worse, the clunking could be causing metal particles to be shaved off inside your lower unit. It would probably be wise to have a dealer check it out before it becomes major damage.

It may turn out to be just a shift adjustment and a gear lube change...but better to be safe than sorry.

MANY thanks! I'll check the light sequence when I get a chance to run the boat again. We'll also have the mechanics check out the lower unit.

If the lights that come on are the MIL and Alternator light, then you likely have an alternator problem that is affecting your progammed fuel injection and engine control module. Easy things first - check and clean your battery cables, especially the main ground cable. If you have a dual-battery set up with a selector switch, rotate the selector switch several times to clean the contacts. Then carefully check all the alternator connections and cables. If that doesn't clear up the problem, get to a dealer and have them hook up to the Honda diagnoistic system to pinpoint the problem.

The 225's lower unit is naturally rather "clunky" (in more ways than one.) First thing I would do is drain the lower unit oil and inspect for filings. Inspect the drain plug (if you have one of the magnetized ones.) Some fine metal flakes, almost like talcum powder, is normal. Run a strong pick-up magnet through the drained oil and inspect for filings. If you find significant filings, then a rebuild is likely needed. If no filings, then you may need to just adjust your shift linkage. That's not as easy as it sounds. You should get a Honda shop manual for that engine and follow their recommended procedure. Do not rely on the aftermarket manuals, like Seloc.

One other thing. On my 225 the dealer just recently replaced the shift rod under warranty because it showed excessive wear on the splines. My symptom was that upon rapid deceleration, it would occasionally pop out of gear.

hondadude said:

W D Neal put together a nifty chart that explains the different alarms. A lot depends on whether those two red lights stay on after you start the engine or go out after two seconds (as they should). Check the chart.



If the two lights stay on, then it appears that you may have a couple of issues.

As for the lower unit, if it is ratcheting, it could be only a shift adjustment...but if it has been getting worse, the clunking could be causing metal particles to be shaved off inside your lower unit. It would probably be wise to have a dealer check it out before it becomes major damage.

It may turn out to be just a shift adjustment and a gear lube change...but better to be safe than sorry.

Click to expand...

I wonder if these codes would apply to the BF150 as well? It would be a handy document to keep in the boat.

I'm running through the engine codes via the PDF file, what does MIL stand for and which light is it?

On our console by the key there are four lights, going from right to left its the RED overheat light, the GREEN oil pressure light, the RED battery light, and the RED check engine light (I'm assuming that's the MIL light?)??

Below that are two other lights, the RED batt/acg indicator and a RED PMGfi check engine light.

Right now when the long intermittent alarm sounds (about one second per beep) the red check engine light is on, the green oil pressure light is on and the Pgmfi red light is on.

If I turn off the engine and turn it back on and run it the alarm will not come on as long as I am in gear. However during idle it will start beeping within about two minutes.

If it is the oxygen sensor, isn't there a resistance measurement I can do with a multimeter? Are there more than one oxygen sensor in the BF225?

I do not know of a resistance check for the oxygen sensor. There may be one, but I can not answer that question.

I am a little confused. You said that the pgm light and the check engine light comes on. To me, they are the same light. Do you mean the pgm/check engine as one light and the battery/charge as another light? And ...both are on as the alert sounds?

Those are generally the two red lights other than the overheat light.

If both are on, you have at alternator/battery issue. You may also have another problem such as oxygen sensor. But something is going on with your charging system.

First check all your fuses.

Have your battery checked and make sure your battery terminals are very clean and very tight. TIghten them with a pair of pliers.

This could be caused just by a bad battery, which could also cause the check engine light to come on.... this is basically what chawk_man said.

Also, as he said take it to a dealer.

As for the the clunking...since the dealer replaced the shift shaft and you have been having the shifting problem since then, it may be related to the shift shaft or something that caused the shift shaft problem in the first place. Taking it to the dealer would be the wisest thing to do.

HondaDude - FYI - that was me, Chawk_Man, that recently had the shift shaft changed out, not C-Level.

C-Level - Never seen a six light set-up that you describe. That is what was confusing to me and Hondadude. Seems like the bottom two you described are redundant with two of those on the switch keypad. So, let's ignore the bottom pair of lights for the moment. MIL stands for Malfunction Indicator Light, and is the same as the "Check Engine" light. If any sensor (EXCEPT the oil pressure sensor, alternator output sensor, or heat sensor) activates, that light will come on. When you first turn on the key before starting, you should hear two beeps from the buzzer and all four lights should come on briefly, then go out, except the alternator light. Then, when you start the engine, the alternator light goes off, and the green oil pressure light will come on.

Now, considering only the four lights on your key pad, my understanding is that when the intermitent buzzer starts going off, the green oil pressure light stays on and the red MIL (check engine) light comes on solid red (no blinking), and the red overheat light is off and the red alternator light is off. Correct? If so, that means that any one of the 12 or so sensors has activated, and, yes, it could be an oxygen sensor. Since those things are expensive, you should get a Honda dealer to hook up the HDS system or service check connector to better pinpoint the problem.

JLBlau - Not sure the same codes apply to a 150 - it seems logical that they would. I lifted them out of my BF 225 shop manual and reorganized them into a more useful sequence. And, yes, I keep a laminated copy on board. Get your hands on the shop manual for your BF 150 and check them. BTW - I strongly recommend that you purchase your own Honda shop manual (about $115.) Even if you don't do your own maintenance, it's an education on your motor and how run diagnostics and keep it in good running condition. Do not rely on any of the after-market manuals - they have a lot of errors and omissions.

chawk_man,

Sorry for the confusion on the shift linkage. My only excuse is that I replied to this just after I finished my taxes. Writing the check to Uncle Sam did not make me a happy camper. So I guess I really was not fully focused on motors.

JLBlau,

The codes also apply to the 150HP with a couple extras.

1. The oil indicator light will blink when a problem with the high pressure side of the oil pressure switch is detected. If there is low oil pressure, the light will go out as listed in the chart.

2.The overheat indicator light will blink when a problem with the overheat sensor is detected. The light will still be solid if there is an overheat, as the chart indicates.

Hondadude - Roger that. Don't blame you - taxes and fees are getting out of hand.

hondadude said:

I do not know of a resistance check for the oxygen sensor. There may be one, but I can not answer that question.

I am a little confused. You said that the pgm light and the check engine light comes on. To me, they are the same light. Do you mean the pgm/check engine as one light and the battery/charge as another light? And ...both are on as the alert sounds?

Those are generally the two red lights other than the overheat light.

If both are on, you have at alternator/battery issue. You may also have another problem such as oxygen sensor. But something is going on with your charging system.

First check all your fuses.

Have your battery checked and make sure your battery terminals are very clean and very tight. TIghten them with a pair of pliers.

This could be caused just by a bad battery, which could also cause the check engine light to come on.... this is basically what chawk_man said.

Also, as he said take it to a dealer.

As for the the clunking...since the dealer replaced the shift shaft and you have been having the shifting problem since then, it may be related to the shift shaft or something that caused the shift shaft problem in the first place. Taking it to the dealer would be the wisest thing to do.

Click to expand...

As I reread this post, it appears that I was not even on this planet. Please disregard it other than taking it in to an experienced dealer for the lower unit.

And...no I was not drunk...although it would seem that. I barely drink two beers a year anymore.

Sorry for the misdirection...


Mike

Checked all the connections on the battery side, they are coated with dielectric grease and have firm connections. Checked the fuses as well, they also were coated with a grease and all connections looked good.

I'm attaching a couple of pictures of the sensors on our console to clear up any confusion, but I'm also sure we are going to have to take it in to a honda dealer to read the codes. I'll keep you posted on what happens and costs in case anyone else has the same problems.

On the console pictures the one with the four lights are:
RED (overheat) GREEN (Oil Pressure) RED (Battery) RED (mil/check engine)

The two lights are:
RED (Battery/ACG)
RED (PMGfi)

Again when the long intermittent alarm sounds it is the green (oil pressure) light and the red (mil/check engine) light that are on the top 4 light console (green light is always on when engine is on).

On the bottom two light console, the Red (PMGfi) is on when the alarm sounds. Having checked everything over and still having the problem is driving me nuts so we will definitely make that trip to the diagnostic computer . Thanks for all your help/replies guys.

That is an interesting installation. You have duplicate Pgmfi and battery/acg lights.

Since your alarm comes on all the time, it should be pretty straightforward to find with the hds.

Wise decision.