Logo

Sherwood P101 question

skytow

Member
Knowledgeable brothers,

With some encouragement from here, I replaced both raw water pump impellers a couple weeks ago. Removed the pumps completely and replaced which, as you all suggested, was THE way to go on this job!

It went well, water is pumping nicely. I noticed some scoring on the front pump cover plates but nothing too bad. My only issue is a very slight drip from one of the cover plates now. I cleaned the surfaces well and used a new gasket along with some aviation permatex (non-hardening sealer).

What do you suggest for a fix? Wrong sealer? I always liked the aviation permatex but maybe this wasn't the best place to use it??

I thought the scoring on the cover plate would not cause a leak as it is inside of the sealing surface. Am I off base on that assumption?

Thanks all!

JD
 
The scoring on the cover will not usually contribute to a leak. Maybe the cover is not perfectly flat any longer.... or, the gasket has breached it's seal.

What you may not be aware of, is what this scoring in the cover may indicate. If the cover is scored, there is a likely chance that the opposiste "thrust" surface is also scored. This would be the deep surface within the pump body!
This means that a fresh impeller may work just fine, but it may fail sooner than the original impeller did in the past.

It's sort'a like the shoe analogy; If the right shoe is wearing out....., usually the left shoe ain't too far behind it!

Just an FYI on that for you.

.
 
Last edited:
The scoring, if concentric, won't cause leaks. The usual cause is improper tightening or a damaged (bent) cover. They can be flattened using some wet sandpaper over a piece of plate glass. Worst case is to replace the cover. The permatex #3 should be fine for a gasket; the o-ring versions don't need any sealer.

As far as wear on the cover, don't forget to check the wear plate as well. Like Ricardo said, whatever the cause, it usually gets both surfaces. Deep scoring can adversely impact the pumping capabilities. The wear plates can usually be flipped over, once, and reused before replacing.
 
Had very similiar situation with my e-35's last season and rebuilt them after flat plate sanding them smooth I have had zero problem since. Eventually, they'll need replacement but they are fine currently
 
Thanks all,

Interestingly, these pumps had about 300 hours on them and had never been opened before. The Crusader blue paint was still in the holes of the Allen head screws!

I replaced the impellers simply as preventive maintenance. They were and are now pumping fine.

These were the paper gasket type not the o-ring seals.

One more question:

With a major rebuild kit being about $ 200 and brand new pumps about $ 330 I don't see any savings in rebuilding unless I do it myself. Thoughts?

Not sure how hard they are to rebuild??

Thanks,

JD
 
Hard to rebuild? - depends upon your "skill level". Overall not difficult but a couple "special tools" help - a hydraulic press and a set of snap ring pliers, in particular.

shop around a bit - you should be able to get the major overhaul kit for well under $200, delivered.
 
Back
Top