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Hurth V Drive

kevin_z

Regular Contributor
I have a 1995 454 XL with a Hurth HSW 630 V 1 Vdrive. The Vdrive is giving me problems. At idle the pressure on the drive is low and when I put it in gear, it makes a clunking sound. When I rev the engine up to 1000 rpms, the drive pressures comes up, and I can put it in gear and she runs with no problem.
Question,, Is there a pump that I can replace on the Vdrive? the ATF level is at the full mark and the filter is clean.
 
That's normal. You should actually have a label on your dash near the low pressure buzzer/light that states low pressure is normal under 1000 RPM. If light/buzzer stays off over 1000-1200 and dipstick says your full stop worrying...

And you'll always have alittle bit of a clunk when put in gear. just make sure your doing it at idle RPM's
 
Have you changed the oil recently? That might smooth it out a bit more. As Kevin said, some clunking going into gear is normal, especially if the idle speed is too high.

Jeff
 
Thanks, I will order the new filters and change the ATF when they get in. I hope that will take care of it. A little maintance is a lot cheaper than new V drives.
 
Right, I do not have a light or buzzer, just the gauge. My idle rpm is correct as per tach. Waiting for new filter and will keep you all updated. thanks, kevin Z
 
O.K., I changed the fluid and filters on the V-drives. Same problem on the port side. Low pressure and when I put it in gear, it clunks but will not engauge in gear until I advance the throttle to about 1000 RPMs.
The Hurth manuel says for low pressure the selector control could be the problem. I assume the selector control is the pump.
Any ideas?? Or a good web site for Hurth V-Drives?
Thanks
 
I've never looked inside the Hurth, but it should have a input shaft driven gear pump, and the selector is the FNR/fluid control "valve". If the selector is worn, then there is too much fluid bypass at idle to enable the clutch to activate. So, yeah, the valve could be the issue; so could the pump. Did you happen to inspect the fluid for any metal bits?
 
Yes, I inspected the old fluid in a glass jar, and it looked fine. the filters also looked o.k. No metal shavings or debris of any kind.
 
If that selector valve can come out without too much trouble (like the BW variety), I'd look at it. It may have orings or other contact surfaces that could show wear. A gear pump in oil will have a very long life, unless its starved for oil or its got metal in it.
 
In my Hurth owners manual, they have a long list of ATF for use. I went to NAPA and got three gallons of their brand. It had the specs that my manual said to use.
 
Kevin:

Did you check the control cables to make sure they are correctly adjusted?

For the manual, maybe LineSix Rick can point you in the right direction? If not, I'd venture your local ZF shop can get one.

Billymac: Most of us use the dino version, nothing wrong with the synthetics though. With an annual change and a clean oil cooler, the temp never gets high enough to warrant a need for synthetics. I'd imagine you get a slight boost due to the lower friction but wouldn't cover the cost difference unless you are running several hundred hours a year.
 
Thanks, ya that makes sense.
So heres a silly question..... how do i change the fluid in the tranns?? is there a drain plug in bottom or do i use the suction method like changing the oil? (Second season with boat)


Kevin:

Did you check the control cables to make sure they are correctly adjusted?

For the manual, maybe LineSix Rick can point you in the right direction? If not, I'd venture your local ZF shop can get one.

Billymac: Most of us use the dino version, nothing wrong with the synthetics though. With an annual change and a clean oil cooler, the temp never gets high enough to warrant a need for synthetics. I'd imagine you get a slight boost due to the lower friction but wouldn't cover the cost difference unless you are running several hundred hours a year.
 
Not trying to be the sm@rt@ss, but have you read the engine owners manual? The basic fluid change processes are usually laid out pretty clearly in there.

The BW gears in my hull prefer to have the cooler line pulled to drain the sump. I opt for the suction pump as the access is a bit tight. As with most lubricated units, you'll never get all the old fluid out with one fluid change. 90% +/- is reasonable for many units.
 
Just trying to learn.....

I have been going through the manual that i downloaded online and have not come across anything about changing trans fluid other than when to change and capacity.


Not trying to be the sm@rt@ss, but have you read the engine owners manual? The basic fluid change processes are usually laid out pretty clearly in there.

The BW gears in my hull prefer to have the cooler line pulled to drain the sump. I opt for the suction pump as the access is a bit tight. As with most lubricated units, you'll never get all the old fluid out with one fluid change. 90% +/- is reasonable for many units.
 
billy - looks like the suction pump is the method used on the 630A versions, would be real surprised if the 630V type were different.

will try to paste the 3 pages from the 630A manual on fluid changing.
 

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Now have copy of service manual - PDF - for Vdrive. Too large to post; may be email-able based on server configurations. send PM with email address if copy desired
 
Kevin:

click on my username at the top of this post. A pulldown appears. click the send message option. Send me a good email address that will handle a 3 MB attachment.

If I get time, I'll try to email this evening.
 
It looks a little thin in some areas but it should be enough to get you headed down the right path. I'd guess the issue is centered in the 'control block'. Remember seeing an item stating to verify correct control cable so, in that sense, they "misbehave" just like a BW gear.

Let us know what you find.
 
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