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1999 Evinrude 70 HP EFI 4 stroke

Gunnervike

New member
1999 Evinrude 70 hp EFI 4 stroke

Boat sat for 2 years with no winterization. I charged the battery and attempted to start the motor with no avail. Took it in to an evinrude mechanic for a tune up. They changed the plugs, oil, etc. wouldn't start for them either. They gave me a call telling me they were going to have to replace the fuel pump/seperator assembly and the cost would be $1200 minimum. I explained that was too much and told them I would come pick it up.

When I got there the mechanic confirmed that it was a fuel issue and that I may be able to get the thing running by cleaning the fuel system. I replaced the fuel lines, removed the *seperator assembly cleaned it thuroughly and put everything back together. Treated 5 gallons of premium gas and added fuel system cleaner as well.*

Hooked up the muffs,and low and behold the thing started right up and purred like a kitten. Thrilled, I hooked it up to the truck and took it to our local boat ramp on a pond that we use for testing motors as the nearest lake ramp is 35 minutes away. Now I could give her some juice, but wait.... It won't start.*

Ok, I move it up to about half throttle, hit the key again, and it sputters and jumps but it's running. I let it go like that for about 5 minutes hoping it would work it's way out. It did a little bit. After trying to get it to idle and restarting it at half throttle 3-4 more times, I finally got it running well enough that I could actually get it in gear. I worked it up to full throttle but sadly enough, I was only getting 3000 rpm. I ran it wide open (all 3k) for nearly 15 minutes. On the ramp it never did start cleanly, idle, or break 3k rpm.

As soon as I got her back home I hooked up the muffs and gave it a shot. Just it had done earlier (at home), it cranked right up and purred like a kitten, idling cleanly at 8-9 hundred rpm.

I don't get it. Please somebody give me a clue. What the heck is going on with this thing ???!!!
 
You probably still have some 'dirt' moving around and from time to time blocking one or more injectors.
The whole system from tank and 'out',should have been 'filled' with cleaner, then left for at least 24 hours and FLUSHED!
Then check the IAC valve and by-pass valve system,that might need cleaning as well.
That engine only starts with 'open throttle' might be a sign of blocked by-pass.
What about the shift 'neutral switch'.
If that is 'closed' engine will not rev above around 3000 rpm (as in neutral).
 
Shift "neutral switch" in the "open" position (lower unit and prop engaged) still only yielded 3k rpm.

I'm totally new to this mechanichin' thing so forgive me, but how would I fill the entire fuel system with cleaner? ...and what cleaner would you suggest. Also, how would I flush the cleaner once done?
 
Have you got any 'books' on that engine? (owners manual, workshop manual)
If not, get one!
Do you have access to the computer diagnostic program?
Starting that engine with 1/2 throttle may ONLY help if air passage in by-pass is blocked.
Do NOT mess with the throttle body/IAC unless you have a workshop manual and the diag prg!
Did you measure the neutral switch or just guessing it was 'open' when in gear?
Is the max rev in neutral same as max rev loaded?(In gear and in water)
Dismantle the vapor separator again and re-clean. Blow with compressed air.
Flush the rest of the system with clean fuel, use the primer bulb on the fuel line.
Assemble the fuel system.
Add 'injector cleaner' to the fuel.
Put the lower unit in a barrel of water (No muffs!), keep a hose of running water into the barrel. Water level min 2" above gear case.
Start the engine and let it run min 1 gal of fuel!
The last part you may do in your 'pond' if easier, but never give more throttle than what engine responds to.
Best is if you have a comp hooked up during testing.
 
I have a service manual ordered and in route to me already. I figured it was an essential.


I don't have the diagnostic program. Can you connect the engine to a laptop? What type info is harvested?

I did not measure the neutral switch. I guess I misunderstood your prior post. I do not know how to measure the neutral switch or even where it is located. (thought you meant in neutral vs. In gear)

max rev is same either in neutral or in gear, however in neutral it cuts out when reaching 3k rpm. When in gear it reaches 3k and power stays constant.

I will dissasemble, clean, and reassemble fuel system again. Pump in fuel loaded with fuel system cleaner and wait for manual to arrive hopefully today or tomorrow.
 
You need to hook it to a comp to set the IAC frequency (idle air).
It even lets you read any failure codes and monitor all sensor and switches. Close to a 'must' if you want to do your own repair and fault search.
Together with a CO sensor, it even gives the opportunity to 'reset' the program to correct for wear and tear and optimize the injection.
You will need the cable and prg.
 
I've seen links to the program but how to I obtain the cable and where do you connect it to the engine? Secondly, should I run a diagnotic test before tearing into the fuel system again? I am getting the feeling the diagnostic results may be more important than re-cleaning the fuel system.

I am certain that there are error codes being created as the check engine light comes on every time I start the engine and I occasionally get a 3 beep code when I shut the engine off.

I looked for a "tub" that I could use to fill with water but nothing I can find is both deep enough and large enough. Maybe I will have to take a laptop to our test pond in order to run my tests.

I want to thank you for your assistance with all of this. There is no way I would be able to learn all I need without your direction. I appreciate all you are doing.

My service manual arrived today as well.
 
You need a serial port diagnostic cable, probably from a dealer.
(If your lap-top does not have a serial port, get a serial-to-USB adapter at the comp shop.)
You need a diagnostic software disk for DFI, 99 or newer.
I see both items from time to time at e-Bay, but a warning about the software. The originals are copy protected and most of the copies does not work!
You may even use the Suzuki software, same engine!
Why did not the first mech hook it up?
 
They may have but they never even had it running. Would it have to run in order to run a diagnostic test?

So, you don't know of a place to attain a workable version of software?
 
No need to have it running to get codes and even run static tests of injectors and ignition.
Both software and cable are so called 'dealer only' items.
If you have a 'freindly' dealer, bring a lap-top and have him install directly on your disc, then he will not have to 'account' for ordering software from distributor!
Cables they normally sell.
Best is a disk with 98/2000/xp as the program prefers a clean DOS.
 
Hey Haffi (and all),

Looks like I may get by without diagnostic testing equipment for a bit. I learned today (from my manual) how to retrieve the built in error codes. They led me directly to the vacuum hose on the MAP sensor, which, like an idiot, I forgot to reattach when putting in intake manifold back together. I haven;t been able to to test this yet, but I have made my error codes and the check engine light go away completely. Yay...

The MAP sensor errors could accont for both my peculiar idle issues and the retarded max RPMs. Hopefully this has me back in the boating game.

However.... always a "however" somewhere in this project for some reason. I noticed a hose attachment on the back side of the intake manifold --- and of course, there is no hose availible to connect to it. The attachment is just an inch or two below the IAC valve, and if I cover it with my finger when idling the boat it brings my idle rate to a comfortable 700-800 RPM. If unconvered my idle rate is between 900 and 1K and an audible clicking occurs. I've looked through every diagram I could find and everywhere in the manual I could think of to figure out it's purpose, but to no avail.

Also, after covering that attachment with my finger for about 5 minutes I noticed a small amount of fuel developing on the top of the throttle body which is just a few inches below that hose attachment. (that is a bit concerning as I don;t know if my finger covering was somehow related or this is an entirely new symptom that I am just identifying)

Any idea what either hose attachment or the fuel accumulation (only a tablespoon or two) might be? I'm pretty sure I must have missed something else when reassembling the intake manifold after cleaning the vapor separator. heck, it's only a few inches from that vaccum hose and I obviously missed that.

Any insight, and additional suggestions would be greatly appreciated. This websight is an amazing find. Hope to be on the contribution side for somebody soon!!
 
If you have 'dismantled' the throttle body itself, you may have rubbed some settings which you should NOT touch.
The 'hose attachment' you mention, has no hose connected to it, it is the air by-pass inlet. The 'clicking' you hear is the IAC valve working overtime to compensate lack of air when you block it.
If you have rubbed the electric 'idle switc' switch setting on the throttle body, engine may not know it is in idle.
Back to the software again:
Be sure throttle body is in 'idle' and the idle switch is activated.
Set the IAC valve at specified value according to manual, I think it is about 25.
To adjust, remove the rubber plug and you will find an adjustment screw behind.
Without this correct set, you will not get the idle correct.
As for the fuel coming out, forget it. You are blocking the air but keep on injecting fuel - flooding!
 
Haffi, I haven't messed with the throttle at all.

Took it to the test pond today and it now idles at perfect 700 rpm. Starts great, idles great, runs in gear great ----- right up to 3000 rpm, but no more...

I have no error codes, no check engine lights (or any other anomaly). It just won't run past 3k rpm.

In the manual it talks about being in S.L.O.W. mode. With a 3k rpm max but nothing is overheating....

What do you think? I really thought it was gonna be good to go... Now I am at wits end here.
 
To my knowledge, the only sensor/switch that may activate SLOW without code or alarm is the neutral switch on the engine shift lever.
The same switch that limits rpm in neutral.
If slow the engine will have the power at 3000, but is limited by cutting ignition ??
Sure it is SLOW??
 
Checked to see if it would start in gear and it does not. I am noticing that it starts with no lanyard though...

The book also says the over-rev sensor will use SLOW with no error codes, but I can not find any addional Info on an over-rev sensor. Any idea whAT that is about?
 
Is there any way my tach could read correctly at low rpm but fail at high rpm? The motor sounds good and strong.

Maybe I need to take it to a real lake and drive it hard for an hour just to see what happens. This 4 stroke is so much more quiet than other motors I've used.
 
Did you check by putting the remote in Forward?
If so the switch in remote will prevent it from starting.
You must disconnect the shift cable at engine, then manually shift engine into gear, remote in neutral and then try.
The over-rev sensor is activated by the engine neutral shift to limit rpm in neutral.
It may not be ruled out that the ECM itself for some reason has been 'locked' in neutral, but never come across that problem.
All electrical systems (key-switches) with safety clip at the ign switch may be started without the lanyard connected. After some incidents where driver fell overboard with the clip,and those left in the boat were unable to start and rescue him/her, it was changed!
I guess a diagnose with the prg will give the answers.
 
I will check the neutral switch today...

As far as the safety clip... It starts without it. Why would that be?
 
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As far as the safety clip... It starts and runs without it. Why would that be?
It should!!

" After some incidents where driver fell overboard with the clip,and those left in the boat were unable to start and rescue him/her, it was changed!"

Now you just restart and pick up the driver.
Just remember to put the clip back when it is back on board!
It operates just by mechanically turning the switch off and not shortening the stop circuit as the old one did.
 
Local mech said 3 weeks before I can get in even for just a diagnostic check. I guess if the neutral switch proves to work i'm stuck with 3k.

I guess I could check each circuit by hand at the ECM. Wonder how long that would take.

Man this is frustrating.
 
Just do the tests as described above.
If running in a barrel, remove the prop.
When in gear, does the engine run above 3000?
If not, then disconnect the shift switch and test again.
Be careful, do NOT rev the engine above 5000!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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