PDS overhaul

I am getting ready to pull my AQ271A to change the PDS bearings and seals. Do I need to also replace the 6 bolts and locking tabs on the mounting ring? What size and grade are the bolts?
Are there any suprises that I should be on the lookout for?
Are there any other maintanence chores other than cleaning up that should be done while everything is out and apart?

If you do a search on PDS bearings, you will probably come up with some good info. I'm not going to try to go through it myself but will add a few things that I discovered.

If you don't have a grease zerk on your flywheel cover, now would be a good time to try to find one. If you can't find one with the correct threads, you can drill and tap the grease cup to accept a 1/4" NPT grease zerk. You might even be able to run a tap through the existing threads on the flywheel cover - just depends on if you have a tap long enough and even if you need to do that with yours - there have been different thread sizes depending on the housing.

Take a close look at things when they come out. Might even want to take a few pictures to help when you put it back together.

I'm sure Rick will be around soon - this is one of his favorites and he's probably got more to say about the subject than anyone else I've heard. And I'm saying that as a good thing

tedm2 said:

I am getting ready to pull my AQ271A to change the PDS bearings and seals. Do I need to also replace the 6 bolts and locking tabs on the mounting ring? What size and grade are the bolts?
Are there any suprises that I should be on the lookout for?
Are there any other maintanence chores other than cleaning up that should be done while everything is out and apart?

Click to expand...

Ted, look at this thread even though this will vary some from yours!
See post # 4!
NOTE: you will not have the "extended" Holman Moody style Borg Warner/Volvo Penta PDS housing as discussed in that thread!

If you have the single bearing F/C and PDS, with NO grease port, then you need to replace only one #6206 in a sealed bearing and one 35x62x7mm AFT seal.
If you have a grease port, then the bearing will need to be "open" (non-sealed)!

If you have a double bearing PDS, then the forward bearing will be a #6007....... again, both in an "open" bearing style.


You only need to replace the "tap" bolts if the hex heads are rusted badly and have lost the hex shape.

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What is the best automotive version of grease to use on these bearings - presuming there is one?

Joe, just an FYI......., the machine threads in the F/C will accept a 1/8" TPT Tap directly without drilling!
Just clean the aluminum debris out when done.
What I do is......, I thread an eighteen inch grease gun extension hose into these threads. I then install the Zirk and 1/8" coupler in the floppy end of the hose. I then tie that up near the throttle cable bracket, and it is now "in sight" and "in mind!"

As for the grease, see post # 4 in the other thread because you will also see the procedure. (I realize there are several ways to skin the cat....... but this has worked best for me over the past 20+ years)

http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?t=377493
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ricardomarine_vp said:

Joe, just an FYI......., the machine threads in the F/C will accept a 1/8" TPT Tap directly without drilling!

Click to expand...

Rick, I must be the unlucky guy who gets the odball parts. I've got two of these grease fittings and the threads are 10mm x 1.5 on both of them. I've taken both of them in to have them measured with the same results. Now mine is a four cylinder AQ130 manufactured in the mid 70's so it may be different from the newer ones. Heck - i don't know - was just a real pain in the rear to get mine set up with a zerk.

When time to do the PDs bearings, I usually found it practical to pull the steering fork and replace bushings at the same time! Most of the times I found the grease channel inside blocked by old grease and no new grease reached where it was supposed to be.

The tap bolts have to be replaced. I had to drill 2 out. Can i pick these up at a hardware store or do i need the $7 each volvo specials?

A hardware/bolt supplier can bring these "tap" bolts in for you. Cost may be as much as what Volvo wants for them.... I don't know!
They do need to be galvanized!