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1998 Johnson 200 hp Ocean Pro

J

jshane37

Regular Contributor
"Power loss last year resulted in a trip to the shop. Mechanic found low compression in the #6 cylinder. Piston was replaced and cylinder was machined out in 6 cylinder (due to minor scuffing). Tried it again and the same thing happened with this time doing serious damage to the 6 cylinder that was just machined. Mechanic "sleeved" the cylinder and we put it to bed for the winter without trying it again. VRO was replaced last year, plugs, filters, fuel bulb, carbs were cleaned,everything that I could think of. Could this be a lean condition in the #6? Any ideas are always appreciated."
 
"most likely it was a lean con

"most likely it was a lean condition, was carb #6 ever rebuilt or was it just cleaned up???"
 
"Engines do not fail by themse

"Engines do not fail by themselves.... something caused it, such as weak ignition, fouled carburetor running lean, something of that nature.

If the cause isn't found and corrected, the same problem takes place again. Sounds like this is what you've encountered."
 
Carbs were just cleaned. Mech

Carbs were just cleaned. Mechanic said they "looked great". I totally agree with the lean condition. Just have to trouble shoot for the culprit.
 
"there is a prob,..w # 2....ih

"there is a prob,..w # 2....ihave not heard,of a prob,specific,to number 6.....looks like carbs...also,..u need to have,...the drain plug screws,..w/the tits,...on them,..(for lack of a better term)...they keep the HS jet from backing out,..of those wonderful,PLASTIC,..carbs...a neccessity!..ck ur's."
 
"JWB do u have a pic of the ti

"JWB do u have a pic of the tittet plug to use as reference, I don't think I have them on my motor, but never seen them either, if nothing else a part #..."
 
"yep----> #20

"yep----> #20
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Drain plug screws are as you s

Drain plug screws are as you suggested JWB. #2 carb was spotless. Going to check the other 5 and replace fuel lines soon. ARGH!!
 
"pull all the main jets, and m

"pull all the main jets, and make sure there are not plugged, and something very simple that I dont think we have talked about and dont get offended...the fuel mix...how are you mixing your fuel/oil???"
 
"Using the above diagram, what

"Using the above diagram, what are you describing as the main jets? The fuel is mixed via the trusty ole VRO pump. I use the word "trusty" loosely. Replaced the VRO and the primer solenoid in 2008. I pulled the #2 and #6 carbs today and they are positively spotless. Looked like brand new. The mechanic wants to set the timing on the motor and send me back to the water. I am quite concerned after the cylinder bore job, then the sleeve job. Seems he is not looking for what is causing this problem. Just fixing the damage when it occurs. I prefer the proactive approach rather than reactive. I am sure in JWB's prior profession he can appreciate that."
 
"I had 2 professions,..at the

"I had 2 professions,..at the same time.......u need to make sure,..u know where the # 2 carb is,..back of mtr,..135 on right 246 on left,..standing in front,135 on right--246 on left
---increase the # 2 carb HS jet 2 sizes....
u may want to ck with---doug selbee...first...tho!"
 
"Main jet/High Speed jet or HS

"Main jet/High Speed jet or HS jet is #15...
JWB what do you mean by all these numbers???

"135 on right 246 on left,..standing in front,135 on right--246 on left""
 
Thanks for the break down in l

Thanks for the break down in lingo Nick. I am also a bit fuzzy on the #s jwb is talking about. Unless he is calling it out like enemy aircraft approaching. "Fighter at 1 o'clock"!!! lol
 
"oh I know what he means...
&

"oh I know what he means...
"# 2 carb is,..back of mtr,..cylinders #1,#3,#5 on right then cylinders #2, #4, #6 on left..."
 
"if looking in carbs from fron

"if looking in carbs from front of motor, then cyl 1 is top left, with # 3 right below it & 5 right below # 3, with cyl # 2 on top right, with # 4 right below it, & # 6 below # 4. h/s jet is behind large brass screw facing you at bottom of carb face. remove brass screw then use straight screw driver carefully to remove jet inside, without rubbing plastic threads for brass screw on carb body, look at face of jet with magnifyer to determine the # of that jet. you can then go to shopevinrude to find out the correct h/s jet for your model # motor, from what I can decipher jwb wants you to ck with doug first & in his opinion you should increase that jet on the # 2 carb 2 sizes larger than it is now. at least thats what I get from that. luck, jeff"
 
"the doug thing,was a joke ...

"the doug thing,was a joke ....for doug
if standing at rear of engine... cyl numbers on strbrd side are-- 135...port side,is 246...

--NOW,...looking at front of engine--
RIGHT side..is 135,.. left is 246,..these are STACKED looper carbs...diff than the crossflows that had the carb directly in front of the cyl it fueled."
 
Thanks all!! I have started c

Thanks all!! I have started checking 1 and 2. I plan on checked the other 4 tomorrow. I will make sure that I keep you all posted of my progress in an attempt to help others in the ummmm same boat for lack of better words.
 
"i'm sorry. I guess i got

"i'm sorry. I guess i got confused,ASSumed all 200 were the same. good thing we have experts to guide us thru this stuff!!! carry on jwb!!!"
 
"Pulled the remaining 4 carbs,

"Pulled the remaining 4 carbs, drain screws and jets. Also gently used compressed air to ensure that all fuel lines were open and clear and closley inspected each for wear, damage or cracks. Carbs are remarkably clean, in fact the plastic in each one did not even have a trace of residue or gum in them. Probably from the total tear down last year during cylinder boring...then cylinder sleeving. Any other PM suggestions before I take it back up to the mechanic so he can set the timing and send me back to the water? Still concerned that we have not found the cause of the initial damage that warranted boring out, then the second eppisode that caused the sleeving which is where we are now."
 
Re: 1998 Johnson 200 Ocean Pro

Ok launched the boat for the first time this year. Engine was a little tough getting started but I assume that was because there has been no gas or oil to the engine since the sleeve job last fall. When I finally got it started, it seemed to run great, and the idle dropped appropriately when I reached operating temp. Trouble is I am now getting a "No Oil" alarm. I replaced the oil lines from the tank to the engine and replaced the oil bulb. I made sure that I pumped the oil bulb before start to ensure that there were no air bubbles in the system. I even tried pumping the oil bulb when the no oil alarm and light were sounding with negative results. I shut the motor down and tried it again 5 seperate times all while pumping the oil bulb to see if that would make it stop and it did not. I added extra oil at 50:1 directly to the fuel tank to ensure a proper break in after the sleeve job. I am just about stumped on this one. I damaged the 6 cyl last year and it was sent out to be machined. Just to get it back in the water to have the same cyl damage again which is what bought me the sleeve job. Now here I am again with the same no oil alarm that started this vicious cycle of damage. I am thinking of going pre-mix rather than the VRO but am not certain that is the cause. As previously stated, carbs, fuel, lines, plugs, jets, filter, and seperator are all brand new. Any suggestions?
 
Re: 1998 Johnson 200 Ocean Pro

Pull the oil line off the VRO. Squeeze the bulb and pump through a pint or so of oil to clear air from the line. Reattach and try again. If still there, repeat, but this time put a piece of clear tubing between the VRO and the first connection. This will let you see if it's sucking air, losing it's prime, etc. Check the line for cracks and other air leaks.
 
Re: 1998 Johnson 200 Ocean Pro

the oil system,...function,should be verified,..if ok,..might just be a bad sys ck gauge,...i would'nt do a rebuild,..w/a used VRO...i either inst a new one,or get them off of it...(i did not re-read all the above posts) just commenting.
 
Re: 1998 Johnson 200 Ocean Pro

I will give that a try. I did prime the oil line as you suggested by pumping the oil bulb with it un-attatched to ensure I had oil to the VRO. The possibiliy exists that there is a bit of air still in the line. I have read in archive threads the same idea with the clear tube. Also using a foot long clear tube filled with oil and see if it drops. One thing I did notice was the oil bulb not getting firm.
 
Re: 1998 Johnson 200 Ocean Pro

Ok so I pulled the oil line off the VRO and replaced it with about a foot or so of clear tubbing filled with TCW-3 oil. I marked the starting point of the oil with a marker to observe the oil level drop as the engine pumped. The engine did in fact pump oil through the clear tubbing, and I followed it making several marks to track the results. Not 30 seconds into the engine running and pumping, the "No Oil" alarm sounded and the light came on. I have read extensively about pulling wires, and bypassing the VRO and pre-mixing but I am not comfortable with that. The VRO was just replaced in 2008, and seems to be doing its job as far as pumping the oil. My biggest concern is the "No Oil" indication is what lead to the machining of the #6, the failure again which lead to the sleeving of the #6. What else could this possibly be? I would go along with the faulty sensor except the damage both times was proceded by the alarm.
 
Re: 1998 Johnson 200 Ocean Pro

a VRO failue cannot damage one cylinder while leaving the others untouched. It mixes fuel for all six at the same time. If the engine starved on oil all cylinders would show damage. The most likely cause for a single cylinder failure is a fouled carburator.

It sounds like the alarm unit on the VRO isn't working properly. If the pump is that new you may want to talk with the dealer you bought it from. If you have a good rapport with them, they may be able to help in some way even though it's out of warranty.
 
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