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Mounting new wiringSecure every 18 inches

knuckle47

knuckle47

Advanced Contributor
"Hope the subject spells it ou

"Hope the subject spells it out. In the new DC wiring to the helm, I will be passing a span of about 8-10 feet along the inside of the hull and I will need to secure these leads. Do we have a preferred method of attaching something to the hull to tie these cables in place?

I thought about bonding some blocks of plywood to the raw, interior of the hull and then clampling a pvc conduit to them. I just was wonder what might be a better alternative ?"
 
"Well, you could use self-tapp

"Well, you could use self-tapping sheet metal screws, but..

Just kidding! No other way I can think of except by using an adhesive (as you suggested). Be sure to rough up the surface and clean it with acetone before gluing or the wax in the resin will not cooperate.

Jeff"
 
I've used the blocks with

I've used the blocks with the hole mount tie wraps. Blocks last longer if "dipped" in epoxy (and dried) before bonding to the hull. Loom or split loom makes for a clean install in most aps.

I've also used the self adhesive tie wrap mounting blocks. The best ones use a 3M double sided tape but are hard to find. A roll of the good tape can usually be found in a good auto body shop and can retrofit or upgrade the bare blocks.

I've also used the hole mount tie wraps with the screw to secure them. Just need to make sure there is adequate substrate to hold them things.
 
"That is my problem...There is

"That is my problem...There is no place that would have adequate substrate to screw into. If I did, there would be a bunch of silvery tips showing thru the outside of the hull.

I have a bag of 100 of the self stick 3m blocks but in the last 2 years having used them in the AC portion of this entire job, they have all systematically fallen off.

When you say "dipped" do you mean then fully dried and then re-epoxied to the mounting surface inside the hull layup?"
 
"You may wanna try somme of th

"You may wanna try somme of the wider body molding tape - at the same width as the blocks. That stuff is unbelieveable with respect to its holding tenacity...

When i make the blocks, i mix up a batch of west system, dip them in, and let them dry, usually on some wax paper over a couple angles. once dry, I'll scuff them up and wash them off. an hour in the sun usually has them ready to roll. usually use the west system to bond them with the general purpose filler (can't remember the number), just enough to keep it from running. Masking tape will usually hold the blocks until the epoxy sets.

A call to 3M's tech department may yield some other options. Probably not cheap but likely to be very effective."
 
"Al,

The secret to the adhs

"Al,

The secret to the adhseve blocks is to , first wipe the area with acetone to remove the dirt and oil, second, adhere the blocks a day or two before you hang any wiring. I have found that they hold much better if allowed to cure a while with no strain on them.

The wood blocks work well too, but rather than using urethane, use bondo, it adheres well and kicks in minutes rather than days. Use plywood, it's much less likely to crack or split."
 
"Terrific...I now have the pla

"Terrific...I now have the plan. I like them both and the plywood can be ready immediately. I know the West epoxy has that blush to be removed after it cures in order to bond again securely. I have 406 and 410 fillers but the plywood is a 5 minute cut to make a bunch of pieces

I do remember using MEK to wet the adhesive surface of self-stick velcro many years back and sticking them to the back of a plastic mirror and the inside lid of a fiberglass tour-pak on the bike. Those velcro strips could not be removed no matter what. The fabric based velcro would tear long before it would pull off. How it super-activated the "stick-um" I do not know.

Nice mirror too, after all, you can't walk around with HELMET HAIR!


Thanks guys for these inputs, I can see this project moving along much quicker"
 
"Kevin,

That seem like a ni

"Kevin,

That seem like a nice way to go as well. I have a bag of 100 of those plastic bases with the 3m sponge dual sided tape. I was actually trying to remove the stuff to allow for a clean new base. Probably easier to just find them without the tape.

I have already cut a bunch of 3x3" plywood blocks to slap in place. About 7 should do it That will keep the run of wire in place and look nice.

I did it a few years back with 3m 5200 but I had to support the piece in place and wait a few days before I could use it...."
 
"Well, This went went today...

"Well, This went went today...placed about 7 plywood blocks along the wire path on the hull wall. Tomorrow, I can hang the wiring and so far it was pretty straight forward. Used the bondo as suggested, I do have about 1 dozen epoxy dipped base blocks as weel for some smaller areas.

Thanks for all the great ideas...They worked"
 
"Sounds like it worked out wel

"Sounds like it worked out well, what type of plywood did you use? I am thinking this may be a good way to go in the future because I do want to spray the inside hull area with sound proofing."
 
"Sounds more productive than m

"Sounds more productive than my day....starboard battery is dead, rear bilge pump has given up the ghost, and the rear brake tube on the truck has rusted thru. Friggin Ford and their better ideas - beware if you have one as they mix metric and SAE sized flare fittings and mixed flare types, too...

Just a note on this one - I noted a few of the factory installed blocks appear to have been bondo'ed in. The last one on the pump leads came loose as few years back. I put it back and added a fillet of epoxy to the sides. You may wanna do it now while the blocks are 'bare'. Guess if its too thin it doesn't handle the vibration well."
 
That one block was probably do

That one block was probably done by the same individual that dropped 15# of stainless hardware in the bilge and never picked it up... good thing he didn't do all the crimped ends on the wires.
 
"Funny you say that Mark, I h

"Funny you say that Mark, I have a friend I met at the Silverton Owners Group and our boats were made 2 serial numbers apart. He has the same gel coat pock marks I have IN THE SAME SPOT ! Someone was asleep at the wheel. I hate to think of the headaches I will find once I get deeper into the wiring

The plywood is just regular 1/2" plywood but heavily treat with Dr. Rots' wood treatment. It seems like Git-Rot and I have used it on many piece of regular plywood. Tested it off the dock submerged for a season....looked great so I use it now.

I did as you suggested Rick and cleaned the surfaces VERY well several times. Today they seemed like part of the hull"
 
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