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1998 200 hp OceanPro reduced power

I

interd0g

Contributing Member
"The 1998 200 oceanpro has lost some power and no longer gets over 3750 rpm or so.
I replaced the plugs and filters - the plugs looked normal-ish. It starts, idles and runs great except wide open
I'm not sure about the full throttle advance screw which I may have lost position in an earlier fiasco.
I rung around Antigua and no one heard of a timing light, so that will have to wait a while till I go somewhere civilized.
Could any one give me an initial dimension for the gap from timing rotor in idle position,where the wot stop bears on, to the wot timing screw end cap when adjusted correctly.
It seems to me that gap must subtend around 18 degrees at the centre. Or maybe I am fos.
I realize this is not kosher, but I am 1200 miles from a competent tech.
I assume all responsibility!"
 
"What are the compression read

"What are the compression readings of the individual cylinders.

With s/plugs removed, spark should jump a 7/16" gap on all cylinders with a strong blue lightning like flame..... a real SNAP! Does it?

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
 
"Thanks Joe. I will continue t

"Thanks Joe. I will continue to try to find stuff like compression tester and timing light here in Antigua but I am not hopeful. Like I said it does start right up, idle and run nicely.
There are a few people here who say they fix outboards and cars but they get by with nothing in the way of test equipment or service data. I dare not let them loose on my engine. With me, at least I believe in having the book and I have the forum!
Actually, two of the plugs were drier with no oily look compared to the other four. But the power loss with open throttle is very marked"
 
"Dry plugs.... Could be relate

"Dry plugs.... Could be related to a couple fouled carburetors (if that's a carbureted engine). Sticking two fingers into the carburetor throats (acting as a manual choke) while underway would cause fuel to be drawn into the crankcase (cylinders). If fouled, this would result in a increase of power, effectively pinpointing the flawed carburetor. However, this test while underway could be somewhat spooky.

Compression testers can be found anywhere, must be a store somewhere in Antigua that has them. You don't need a timing light for the spark test. Here's a tester you can build this afternoon.

(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:


..........X1..........X2

.................X..(grd)

..........X3..........X4

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
 
"Thanks Joe. I see the beauty

"Thanks Joe. I see the beauty of your logical step-by-step diagnostics. I appreciate your time and wisdom.
I am pretty much on my own on this island as far as technical help goes, so I will persevere and let you know how it goes."
 
I neglected to mention that I

I neglected to mention that I retired in 1991 so any information I enter is basic knowledge that would carry forward from the older models. The higher technical questions you ask of will need to be answered by other members who are knowledgeable in that area. There are quite a few members here that qualify and I'm sure that they'll be along shortly.
 
"I found a compression tester

"I found a compression tester on the island but still not timing light. The compression ranged from 100 to 120.
After a run at wot all the heads appear warm . The bottom two a little less so. When i say warm, you could keep a finger on there for about 10 secs or so, so not hot like a car.
WOT still gives me 3750 rpm steady and consistent
Way low - used to be close to 5000.
Sparks are amazing. No error lights, no alarming sounds or heat. Plugs look happy."
 
"Your initial post states &#34

"Your initial post states "The 1998 200 oceanpro has lost some power and no longer gets over 3750 rpm or so. I replaced the plugs and filters - the plugs looked normal-ish. It starts, idles and runs great except wide open"

The compression having a 20 psi between the highest and lowest reading is not a good sign, but perhaps that is a false reading that could change? Best to check it again a few times to be accurate.

The spark being amazing.... You don't say exactly what it is but am I correct in assuming that at cranking speed, all cylinders provide a strong blue spark that will jump a 7/16" gap?

The top rpm reading of 3750 rpm would normally indicate that two (2) cylinders are not providing power (loss of one cylinder usually drops the rpms down about 500 rpms or so).

If you haven't tried the two fingers in the carburetor throats test yet, do so. If the rpms improve momentarily, that indicates a fouled carburetor. I strongly advise this test for the following reason.

Running a two cycle engine (yours) with a fouled carburetor (high speed jet somewhat clogged - wide open problem) results in running the engine with a lean fuel mixture. This lean mixture affects the lubrication aspects needed for the bearings, cylinder walls, pistons, etc. The usual result is damaged aluminum pistons and scored steel cylinder walls.

If the 20 psi difference in compression is accurate, the above could be the cause. Hopefully it is not and your compression readings change.

Other members..... what are your thoughts on John's problem?"
 
"I would like a bank wise list

"I would like a bank wise list of the comp reading before commenting on it.
If the higher are on stb and lower on port, it may be ok."
 
"I will repeat the compression

"I will repeat the compression test. Are we worried about the bottom two cylinders being noticeably cooler after a run?
As to the main jets, its always to rough here to do anything but hang on under weigh.
So I moored bows to and run astern for a minute .
Gas sprays appeared in all the carbs.
Using a hand to partially block intakes the engine sputtered and lots of gas accumulated in the throat. Once cleared the engine continued.
I once had a tricky problem where the good spark was at the wrong time. Ever seen that on an o/b?"
 
OK - after eliminating as much

OK - after eliminating as much as possible I looked into the flywheel. There are holes near the edge through which you can see stuff. There seems to be a gap in the ring of magnets! Ahaaaaaaaaaaaaagh!
I will have to get help to get it off.
Is a new flywheel the answer and will there any loose magnets have caused mayhem in there?
 
"there r magnet kits avail...c

"there r magnet kits avail...ck the ring,in the center of flywheel too...another known prob area."
 
"A helpfull hint here perhaps.

"A helpfull hint here perhaps..... After a thorough cleaning of the flywheel and in epoxying the magnets back in place, short pieces of 3/8" OD fuel line inserted between the magnets will keep the spacing perfectly even."
 
"My flywheel has defeated all

"My flywheel has defeated all comers so far. Outboard 'techs' here don't reckon to have tools and test equipment. So I will have to source the puller AND the special bolts from USA. Alone again, naturally!
Anyone have any recommendations , and the spec for the bolts? its a B200txecm 1998 oceanpro. The factory book does not spec bolts. Or can I get the whole puller set in the book 378103?"
 
"Flywheel Puller: Don’t know i

"Flywheel Puller: Don’t know if they have changed by year, but in the interest of having one the same day for my 1986 J225, and saving $110 (puller kit w/ lift eye attachment + S&H) I made my own using (3) 5/16"-24 x 2" grade 8 bolts, some 1/4" steel plate, a drill press, a torch for bending the lift shackle, a welder for attaching the center nut, grinder to point the center puller bolt, and so on.

Rather than describe it in detail, I'll post a pic of the (kinda poor) drawing I used to make it.

It worked well for lifting the engine and guess it will have no problem as a puller, though I haven't tried that function yet. The lifting shackle is made from 1/4" x 1.5" bar stock and of course is not installed on the puller during the pulling function.

Oh, and I see on the drawing the 1/2" bolt thread pitch is mislabeled as 18, should be 13, IIRC, and the 5/16" bolts are mislabeled as 1.5" but should be 2". And the lifting shackle was made almost 3" tall giving plenty of vertical clearance for the hook to hook onto the 1/2" bolt. And you may wish to use 3/8" plate for the puller disk - 1/4" may be a little flimsy...

Hope you can decipher my poor writing and drawing, it gets worse and more laborious by the year with the tremor.

http://sports.webshots.com/album/577050155pcRVsY?vhost=sports

If you have to order the bolts anyway and don't have your own tools and bits of scrap metal handy there, the factory-made puller is probably a great deal, and a far better tool as well...

If any of the real experts here see any functional downside to my puller design, please advise."
 
"I made one with 1/2 in. plate

"I made one with 1/2 in. plate,3/4 nut welded on top. we used a piece of paper to lay on top or thin cardboard(cereal box)using a small ball pin hammer to tap on paper to mark holes, then drilled hole out to fit a little bit larger then bolt,used flat washers to compensate for larger hole,also drilled out hole for smaller six hole toward outside of flywheel. tightened three bolts close to center ,after running thread tap all the way to bottom of bolt holes & blowing out debris. leaving outer bolts sort of finger tight to add in a more even pull, don't tighten outer bolts tight,you will screw up your flywheel!!weld a 1/2 or larger bar for a lever against tightening the large puller bolt in the center. worked very well & cost about $ 20."
 
"Next installment - the flywhe

"Next installment - the flywheel is off and all the magnets were loose and bunched up together with no gaps around the flywheel inner wall leaving the one large gap I saw earlier. Amazing how smooth it seemed to run like that, except with one cylinder not firing it lost a lot of power at wot. I am thinking about using those 35rk fixing clips to prevent this happening again.
Anyone know the official way to position the magnets relative to the flywheel? If not I can see where the original adhesive patches used to be."
 
John.... Doesn't matter wh

John.... Doesn't matter where the first magnet is. Important is the gap between them. Also don't install them upside down.... notice the bevel.
 
"JWB - 35rk is the part number

"JWB - 35rk is the part number of these magnet clips which retain the magnets , space them properly and prevent them getting detached. Promarine lists them.
Seems like a good idea."
 
"I decided I couldn't wait

"I decided I couldn't wait three weeks for the clips and go through the hassle of import , duty etc.
I glued them back with JB Weld after grinding off the old crud, seated them with g clamps to get them flush down. I used stiff plastic pipe for separators
. I am thinking of leaving the separators in, (JB'd down) to prevent future shunting around situations.
Is this insane?"
 
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