1989 Johnson J15ECEC Fuel Problem

"I rebuilt the fuel pump and c

"I rebuilt the fuel pump and cleaned the carburetor. It will not start unless I squirt some fuel mix in the intake. The bulb stays hard.

How much pressure should the fuel pump build up? I can hold my finger over it and stop the fuel flow. The fuel doesn't squirt very far out when cranking the motor (hose off carburetor and pointing up).

Shouldn't the carburetor bowl empty when I crank the motor? Since the bulb stays hard is the fuel pump ok?

Thank you,
Bill"

The pump does not produce very

The pump does not produce very much pressure. If it is squirting fuel out it is probably OK

The bulb will stay hard until the engine is running and the pump is sucking fuel through.

The carb bowl should stay full. Once the engine is running it will use the fuel from there but the pump will keep it full.

Your problem is I feel with the carb.

If the bowl is full and you get it to fire (by squirting fuel into the intake)but it does not keep running then it points to a carb problem.
Is the bowl is filling to the correct level?

Have you properly cleaned it... blown through all passages and jets?

Have you put it back together correctly

Have you set the slow mixture needle correctly (1½ turns out)

is the choke closing

I got it running. I had the l

I got it running. I had the low speed needle adjustment turn too far in. I reset the needle to closed and kept backing it out until it started. Adjusted the idle and ran it in gear. It ran fine with no dying or stalling.

The stop for the low speed needle's knob had confused me.

Many thanks for the help.
Bill

"For future reference:

&#40

"For future reference:

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

Note 1: As a final double check setting of the slow speed valve(s), if the engine has more than one carburetor, do not attempt to gradually adjust all of the valves/carburetors at the same time. Do one at a time until you hit the above response (die out or spit back), then go on to the next valve/carburetor. It may be necessary to back out "all" of the slow speed adjustable needle valves 1/8 turn before doing this final adjustment due to the fact that one of the valves might be initially set ever so slightly lean.

Note 2: If the engine should be a three (3) cylinder engine with three (3) carburetors, start the adjustment sequence with the center carburetor.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay store at:

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"