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bob_on_this

Regular Contributor
"Hello all, been awhile, but I

"Hello all, been awhile, but I have some updated photos to share.
I have the engines done, ready to test before they go back in. I installed new center style exhaust, and had a few challenges, but it all worked out fine.
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Hi Bob....Nice looking engines

Hi Bob....Nice looking engines...is that redline on the tach...wishful thinking?
 
"That would be nice, right?
I

"That would be nice, right?
I will be taking the engines to my builder, he will pro-lube, and then run the units at about 3000 RPM for half an hour or so, to break in the new cam and followers. Hence the tach....he can use the red line indicator, to set his RPM for the test run."
 
"MOT????

One alternator che

"MOT????

One alternator checked out OK, I replaced the bearings and the brushes. The PO had replaced the other with a non-marine unit, so that was replaced (port engine)."
 
"MOT, as in motorola.....

N

"MOT, as in motorola.....

Nice job!

What are you gonna do with all that room back in the shop when the engines are installed?

Is the exhaust restriction the inner liner of the hose?"
 
"Nice work. I'm gonna show

"Nice work. I'm gonna show that collapsed hose photo elsewhere, as a teaching tool, if you don't mind.

Jeff"
 
"Jeff, you are more than welco

"Jeff, you are more than welcome to use the photo.
Hope it helps others.

Mark,
I am hoping to get my Jeep back in after the boat is done.

The hose looks to me anyway, like the engines ran hot, or too little water at some point, or maybe the fact that they are 20 plus years old.

What do you guys think?"
 
I'd say your diagnosis is

I'd say your diagnosis is correct. I've never seen one form that "almost ideal" check valve...now I know why Jeff wants to use that pic.
 
"New question for you guys,
A

"New question for you guys,
As you might expect, finding anything "marine" in New Mexico is all but imposable.
I need to get about 24' of 1.25" ID water hose to run from the sea cock to the engines.
I have found a hose supply house here (servicing the Gas and Oil markets) that has a three ply, single wire, 150 PSI hose for about half what I see on the net. Is there a USCG type, or rating I should be looking for?"
 
"Bob,

Just how much is the

"Bob,

Just how much is the hose you are looking at? I used 1.25 MPI brand Series 100 water hose from my seacocks to the transmissions, Maybe 7 foot each and they were under $45 for each piece. That hardwall wire stuff is a real PITA...I used marine hard wall wire wet hose in our 4" exhaust...."
 
"Al,
The local stuff is, well

"Al,
The local stuff is, well, Local, and is about 1/2 that price.
24' of the local is $69.00 total.

The internet stuff is $156.00 plus shipping.

I don't really mind the cost so much, just wondering if it is justifed."
 
"SAE J20R3 is a good start. S

"SAE J20R3 is a good start. Some folks use wet exhaust hose SAE J2006, but I don't believe that to be a requirement for water intake.
At the very least, make sure its two ply rubber or EPDM, not vinyl!"
 
"I can find a T202 AL for sani

"I can find a T202 AL for sanitation and a T203 AA for 10 bar. If its like those, I think you have a winner. I can't find the 202aa."
 
"May have missed earlier posts

"May have missed earlier posts, are the OSCO manifolds new or have you used them before. I am curious about any performance improvements using center risers."
 
"Bob:

I was gonna suggest m

"Bob:

I was gonna suggest making sure the hose was rated for 'suction' service and not be too concerned about the pressure rating. After going thru the spec sheet, I'd say your only concern with that hose is its bend radius, = 5". when you cut it, be careful - the spec sheet says it has 4 helix wires."
 
"Kevin:

Since my boat has l

"Kevin:

Since my boat has log manifolds, I was interested in going to center dumps when they needed replacement. I have since learned, however, from people who have made the conversion, that the performance/ fuel mileage gain in hardly noticeable.

Jeff"
 
"I noticed a significant diffe

"I noticed a significant difference (mostly acceleration) when the exhaust was changed. We didn't stop with the manifolds (log to center riser) though; when all the way back to the transom. Was 3" from the elbows to the Y pipe, then 4" thru the muffler and out the back. When I was done, it was 4" from the elbows and 5" from the Y pipe, thru the muffler and out the back."
 
"Yikes! What have you got, a

"Yikes! What have you got, a muscle boat? Did you see any significant gas mileage difference?

Jeff"
 
"Bob, Nice job, BTW.

That

"Bob, Nice job, BTW.

That exhaust hose ID de lamination is not uncommon! A real performance inhibitor and a danger!
That would be a good teaching tool. I/B's ..... I/O's.... same issue occurs.

Bob, I'm with Mark..... just make certain that the new suction hose will not collapse under pump suction.

If you don't mind me saying so, now would be a great time to mark off your harmonic balancers for your TAT (total advance timing).
If so, you'll want to mark them each up to 30* BTDC and in the correct direction for the RH rotation engine!
Very easy to do now while in your garage.
The guy who will be running the engines will be able to check/set your TA.

."
 
"Bob:

You can see the spec

"Bob:

You can see the spec sheet here:
http://kuriyama.thomasnet.com/item/alfagomma-rubber-hose-br-sheet-rubber/series- t-water-suction-industrial-rubber-hoses/t202aa125x100?&plpver=10&origin=keyword& by=prod&filter=0

I didn't see anything else objectionable.

Ricardo's suggestion about mmarking the balancer is timely. If you don't want to spring for the timing tape, use the arc length formula. A diamond wheel in the dremel tool will let you make a nice set of marks where you need them. If your timing tabs are in good shape, every 10 degrees up to 30 is plenty on the balancer.

Jeff: its a 30 ft open fishing boat. not much mass. The throttle response improved dramatically with the exhaust mods, not the fuel economy. The fuel economy improvements noted in other posts came from the carb mods. Like in the auto domain, I'm sure the larger hose improved the 'breathe-ability' of the system."
 
"Bob and Mark, My experience w

"Bob and Mark, My experience with Degree Tape/Decals (no matter how well prepped and installed), is that they will come loose after a while..... but the idea is great!

You can also scribe out a circle (on paper or cardboard) of the exact same diameter of the balancer and then mark a segment of the circumference into the degrees as Mark suggests. Zero/10/20/30/35.
Then transfer those exact dimensions to the circumference of the balancer via hard markings or paint pen.... (hard markings being the better of the two).
The small increment markings of the timing tab provides the in-between degrees by doing the math.

."
 
"I've "taped" 6 en

"I've "taped" 6 engines and all still had the tape on them. Oldest was put on in 1997. They all have seen ocean use. May be the prep, may be the product....could be I get lucky once in a while."
 
Two years with ocean use and m

Two years with ocean use and my tapes are still in place...I was actually surprised they were still intact as I really did believe they would not last....they did!
 
"Thanks guys,
I will get a co

"Thanks guys,
I will get a couple deg. tapes and get them on.
Do you guys know what the timing should be at the
different RPM's?"
 
"Bob, You are asking an import

"Bob, You are asking an important question. This is good!
Forums are great, but as with any critical specification....., this question is best answered by you via your OEM manual for your engines!
By doing so, it reduces the chance for misinformation, miscommunication and/or misinterpretation by either forum member, etc.
(I am not suggesting that the ME.com members are not qualified.... it appears that many are)
But you have two fresh and expensive engines that require this to be precise!
You will be able to find an Ignition Advance Curve graph that will give you this information.

Since you do have the mechanical advancing type distributors, the curve will be shown MINUS "Base" Advance.
Note that this must be calculated with your TA.
Looks like you are reusing your distributors.... may I suggest that you have a shop, with an old school machine, check the curve on each one? They can reburbish springs and bushings as well.

Piston type, cylinder head combustion chamber, etc. play a role in this curve and limit.
Engine Builders are notorious for using Dreaded Dished Pistons w/ the small chamber heads in the SBC marine version.
This creates the need to hold back on TA some.
If you are using a Q/E piston w/ the correct chamber, then TA can become greater.

So again..... Know what components have been used in your engine, and see your OEM manual.... Not Seloc..... Not Clymers.... OEM!


All that being said......, some of us could make a suggestion or two as a supliment to the OEM info.... but best to know a little bit more about your engine builds first, IMO.


Do not forget that the degree decal must be correct for YOUR harmonic balancer diameter."
 
"Bob:

the initial timing is

"Bob:

the initial timing is 10 deg BTDC; you should be able to verify that on the serial number plate. Some have found that the newer fuels make the engine happier with only 8 deg.

I don't have a crusader small block manual so can't help with the curve. Most all V-8's will max out between 28 and 32 deg, usually by 3400 rpm. As Ricardo noted, too much is NOT a good thing. LineSix Rick posted a Crusader quick reference card a while back - it doesn't have the total advance number.

Don't forget to check and double check the tape before you pull off the backing. The reverse rotation engine requires you to wrap the tape "backwards"."
 
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