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Honda 99 kicks out of reverse when I give it gas

riverrat13

New member
"I got scammed by an unsroupul

"I got scammed by an unsroupulus seller but, Like the motor enough to work with it. Forward gear works great. But, when I put it into reverse and give it gas it pops out of reverse and make a ticking noise. I have to put it in forward to make the ticking go away. It has a new 4 blade prop but, I don't think that is the issue. Please help."
 
"What is the serial number of

"What is the serial number of the motor? You can find it on the frame of the mounting bracket.

There are a couple of vintages. It may turn out to be just a simple adjustment...or it could be a worn clutch dog in the lower unit or someone had it apart and put something in wrong.

Once we know the vintage, then we can make some suggestions.

The ticking noise is probably your clutch dog trying to engage but not quite able to do so.
Let's hope for adjustment..."
 
Thanks for the quick response.

Thanks for the quick response. The serial # is BABJ1004935. 2001 9.9D.
Your help would be greatly appreciated.
 
"Let's hope the person bef

"Let's hope the person before you changed the impeller and did not adjust the shift shaft correctly when they put the lower unit back on.

Here is how to check the shift shaft adjustment. Pardon the wordiness...I hope this makes sense.

The shift shaft goes up from the lower unit and connects to another shaft which goes to the top of the engine through the vertical tube that the engine swivels left and right on.

You first have to find where the upper shift shaft connects to the lower unit shift shaft.

There is a horizontal fin just above the prop. There is another horizontal fin toward the front of the motor a little higher.

Just above that horizontal fin on the front of the motor there is an opening below the vertical swivel tube. There is a rod that goes up and down as you shift. Be sure to turn the prop by hand as you try to shift, so there is no binding.

Once you find the rod, you should see two nuts on that rod. One small nut butted up under and against another nut of the same diameter but about 1 inch long.

Put the motor into reverse to get best access to them.

You will need a 10mm wrench and a small adjustable wrench. Separate the two nuts.

Do not move the lower (smaller nut) past what it takes to break them loose from one another.

Hold the bottom nut in place while you unscrew the top (inch long nut) until it separates from the lower rod.

Now check to see if the top of the bottom nut is about .3 inches from the end of the bottom rod.

If it is not (if it is much more...it was out of adjustment).

To adjust it properly...

Make sure the shifter is in reverse. Position the top of the bottom nut about .3 inches from the top of the bottom rod. Hold it there with the wrench. Screw the top big nut down onto the bottom rod until it touches the bottom (small) nut.

Tighten the two together.

You're ready to shift.

Hopefully, that fixes your problem."
 
"I had to change the water pum

"I had to change the water pump when I first bought it also. The owner put the water quick-disconnect on by the thermostat and water flowed when he started it. He then put it in forward and gave it gas. He acted funny when I put it in reverse and gave it gas.

Anyway, I had to change the water pump out because it had no impellers. I counted the threads on the shift lever when I took it off. I just checked it and it is .3" as you mentioned.
I then disconnected the spark plug, put it in reverse and after an initial jump in the shaft the propeller turns freely. When I put it in forward the propeller is hard to turn.
Last Weekend I was out on the water and moved it down even farther thinkng it was not engaging all the way. Same thing happened so, I put it back to its original position.

I believe your original diagnosis was correct, Clutch Dog. I will tear into it today.

What should I look for besides broken parts?

Are there any tricks to dissasemble?

I also can't find clutch dogs online. Will probably have to go through a dealer.

Thanks again for your assistance."
 
"I guess you realize by now, n

"I guess you realize by now, not to run the engine with water connected at the flush port like the seller did. That alone can burn up your impeller.

Before you go taking the gearcase apart, it would be helpful to have a manual. The part you are going to take apart is not too difficult.

You can find a parts breakdown on boats.net http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard%20Engine/2001/BF9.9D1%20LHA%20O UTBOARD%20ENGINE,%20JPN,%20VIN%23%20BABJ-1000001%20TO%20BABJ-1099999/parts.html

Removing two bolts will remove the assembly that you need to work on. One thing to check is that all the parts are there. The clutch dog is part #1. You may also want to check the pin (part#2) that goes through the clutch dog. Make sure it is not broken. If it is, it will not allow complete shifting. It is just held in by a spring. If the clutch dog is very worn, reverse gear may be also. So both should be replaced.

If in doubt, take the prop shaft assy to a dealer for their thoughts. It would be nice to buy the parts from them if they are helpful. You may pay list price, but the advice may be priceless...plus you are supporting a local business."
 
Mike you are truely a "bro

Mike you are truely a "brother's keeper"! Your handle should be changed from "hondadude" to "hondaman" 'cause You da MAN!!
 
"Thanks Jimmy! I guess...

"Thanks Jimmy! I guess...

Victor,

One more thing...before you pull the lower unit apart. Disconnect the shift shaft again. Again remember to put the motor in reverse while turning the prop.

Once disconnected...take a pair of needle nose and grab the shift shaft coming from the lower unit and push it down. That will be pushing it more into reverse. If the prop still spins while trying to rotate it clockwise (opposite of reverse) then the problem is in the lower unit. If it does lock into gear, you may have actually have an issue with the plastic linkage on the upper part of the engine. Some of the plastic parts can brake or crack if someone has tried to shift it while the motor is not running (or without turning the prop) and tries to force it into gear.

Just to check again, move the lower unit linkage up to neutral, then to forward, and back to reverse. The prop should lock if it is turned in the opposite direction than it usually rotates. If you have to force it to keep it locked into reverse, then it is in the lower unit."
 
Thanks Mike.

I already pull


Thanks Mike.

I already pulled the lower unit. Could not find anything in there so I put it back together. I did not get the clutch lined up and snapped the clutch pin. It may have already been weak? I have another couple on order and will have to wait for them to arrive.
I will check the plastic linkage up top in the mean time. I looked at it today and it looked alright. I will remove it and check closer.
 
"Before you spend too much tim

"Before you spend too much time on the linkages, make sure the lower unit will shift manually by pushing down on the shift shaft and seeing if the prop locks. Then pull it up to neutral...the prop rotates freely.
Then all the way up to forward...the prop is locked again.

If it clicks into and stays in those gears, the lower unit it probably ok."
 
"Mike,

Wanted to follow up.


"Mike,

Wanted to follow up. I changed out the plastic shif shaft as you recommended. It was worn down about 1/16". After repacing that and setting the linkage arm for 0.3" as recommended earlier, all is well; ran the motor this weekend.
Thanks for your help."
 
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